Paasche Talon Constant Airflow Problem

T

TravelorMarjorie

Guest
I have a Paasche Talon, brand new out of the box for only two days. I am using a brand new Ch compressor at about 30 PSI. It was working fine when my teacher set it up for me, but when I brought it home and set it up, I dropped the airbrush, and now the air won't stop flowing when ever I turn the compressor on. It paints well, except for the spidering effect which is consistent with every touch I use. I've taken the airbrush apart and reassembled it four times now, following my manual closely. Did I break something when I dropped it, or did something become mis-adjusted? I can't tell you what type of paint I am using, as my teacher mixed it up for me to practice my dots and lines with this week.

I appreciate any help you can offer.
Thank you in advance,
TravelorMarjorie
 
You've probably bent the spring in the air valve under the gun so that it not stays open, you should be able to take this apart to inspect it and see what its doing and if necessary straighten it out.
 
We've taken it apart, but have not figured out how to get to that particular spring. Thank you, Madbrush.
 
We've taken it apart, but have not figured out how to get to that particular spring. Thank you, Madbrush.

There will be a little screw under the valve where the hose is attached, it doesn't look like a screw since it has a little hole on each side, you usually loosen it with two pins or circlip pliers.
 
There will be a little screw under the valve where the hose is attached, it doesn't look like a screw since it has a little hole on each side, you usually loosen it with two pins or circlip pliers.
Thank you, Madbrush. I will try this if my teacher can't get it working properly for me tomorrow. I'm just impatient and wanted to do my homework for the week before my next class. :(
 
Talons are built differently than Iwatas.

You use the allen head that should have come with the kit to pull the air valve assembly off. Unfortunately, It's really only supposed to take the "cap" off, but on mine it takes the whole assembly off the airbrush. I've never had to remove it, but on mine I was told by someone who tried the "cap" part, that allows you to actually get to the innerds, is on so tight the metal wanted to deform. So good luck.
 
Talons are built differently than Iwatas.

You use the allen head that should have come with the kit to pull the air valve assembly off. Unfortunately, It's really only supposed to take the "cap" off, but on mine it takes the whole assembly off the airbrush. I've never had to remove it, but on mine I was told by someone who tried the "cap" part, that allows you to actually get to the innerds, is on so tight the metal wanted to deform. So good luck.
eek! I am not sure I want to risk that either! I have a single action brush I can use, but not for the type of homework I was supposed to do this week.
 
eek! I am not sure I want to risk that either! I have a single action brush I can use, but not for the type of homework I was supposed to do this week.

Do you have the allen wrench? If you do just check and see what happens.
 
Talons are built differently than Iwatas.

You use the allen head that should have come with the kit to pull the air valve assembly off. Unfortunately, It's really only supposed to take the "cap" off, but on mine it takes the whole assembly off the airbrush. I've never had to remove it, but on mine I was told by someone who tried the "cap" part, that allows you to actually get to the innerds, is on so tight the metal wanted to deform. So good luck.
If the whole assembly comes off its not really a problem, all you need I'd to hold the assembly using a pair of pliers with a little piece of rubber (something to protect the finish while still keeping it from spinning) and use the Allen key again. If it still won't budge soak it in warm soapy water or airbrush cleaner and try again.

Hope it helps :)
 
There is only one way where air comes in and it's controlled by the lever pressing on a piston. If air keeps on flowing then there is something keeping the piston down. Unless it fell on the trigger and it damaged the piston, I don't know what else it can be.

You can remove the whole air assembly bu it is not necessary. You only want to remove the lowest part where the thread is. And not to damage the thread, you clip a wooden clothes peg over the thread, grip that with some pliers and undo. All the internals that controls the air will come out.
 
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eek! I am not sure I want to risk that either! I have a single action brush I can use, but not for the type of homework I was supposed to do this week.

If anything happens at all to your brush, it is perfectly acceptable and probably wise to allow some else to check it out for you, a little patience can save you a lot of money, since you have a teacher, let him have a look, it's handy to know how to maintain your equipment, however until you have enough confidence to do it on your own you reduce the risk of permanent damage allowing someone with more experience to service it for you.

I think you have now maybe realised that with something as intricate as an airbrush you have to treat as you would a baby, lol, therefore when you come across parts that are tight and difficult to remove make use of those you are lucky enough to have around to help out, that's one little luxury we didn't all have, lol

@Bossman Thanks for your input here B, I've never owned or even seen a Paasche so it's handy to know the differences in other brushes, I believe an allen key was needed for my old H&S brush also, an easier system than my Iwata.
 
If anything happens at all to your brush, it is perfectly acceptable and probably wise to allow some else to check it out for you, a little patience can save you a lot of money, since you have a teacher, let him have a look, it's handy to know how to maintain your equipment, however until you have enough confidence to do it on your own you reduce the risk of permanent damage allowing someone with more experience to service it for you.

I think you have now maybe realised that with something as intricate as an airbrush you have to treat as you would a baby, lol, therefore when you come across parts that are tight and difficult to remove make use of those you are lucky enough to have around to help out, that's one little luxury we didn't all have, lol

@Bossman Thanks for your input here B, I've never owned or even seen a Paasche so it's handy to know the differences in other brushes, I believe an allen key was needed for my old H&S brush also, an easier system than my Iwata.


Thank you so much! I waited and had my teacher take a look at it. It turned out that the brass stem that the spring lever is on was bent. Yes, I managed to drop it in the exact way that would cause damage to it. My teacher (Thank you Vic) Took it apart, fixed the bend, and advised me to order a new replacement part for it, which I have already done.

I spent two hours last evening and an hour so far today doing dots and lines. Nope, not consistent in size or shape yet, but I'm learning. Anything worth learning is worth practicing. Right?

Thanks to all of you!
 
Thank you so much! I waited and had my teacher take a look at it. It turned out that the brass stem that the spring lever is on was bent. Yes, I managed to drop it in the exact way that would cause damage to it. My teacher (Thank you Vic) Took it apart, fixed the bend, and advised me to order a new replacement part for it, which I have already done.

I spent two hours last evening and an hour so far today doing dots and lines. Nope, not consistent in size or shape yet, but I'm learning. Anything worth learning is worth practicing. Right?

Thanks to all of you!

Well glad you got it sorted, at least you'll be careful now, lol
 
I know you have a teacher which is fab, but don't be shy about posting any pics here of your progress. The guys here will happily advise on how to improve technique or spot anything that you may not be doing in quite the right way, or even just confirm you are on the right track and give you a little confidence boost. If you can't see your teacher as often as you would like, then it can keep you on course and make sure you are following his instructions correctly until next time :)
 
It turned out that the brass stem that the spring lever is on was bent. Yes, I managed to drop it in the exact way that would cause damage to it. My teacher (Thank you Vic) Took it apart, fixed the bend, and advised me to order a new replacement part for it, which I have already done.

Yes, I nailed it.

Good to hear you managed to get it sorted. No get back to work.
 
Yes, I nailed it.

Good to hear you managed to get it sorted. No get back to work.
I'd love to, but I seem to be having trouble thinning my paint properly. On a plus side, at least I have plenty of black spiders to decorate for Halloween with, right?
 
I know you have a teacher which is fab, but don't be shy about posting any pics here of your progress. The guys here will happily advise on how to improve technique or spot anything that you may not be doing in quite the right way, or even just confirm you are on the right track and give you a little confidence boost. If you can't see your teacher as often as you would like, then it can keep you on course and make sure you are following his instructions correctly until next time :)

I'll be asking for suggestions in cutting my first stencils next. That's my assignment for my next lesson. Don't have a lot of money for supplies, so I'm thinking of using file folders as my stencil material, those I have plenty of!
 
Anyone have any advice on inexpensive paint that is easy to mix to the right thickness for poster board. My teacher recommended Deca, but I haven't been able to find any. Createx is too far away for me to get, it would cost me more in gas to go buy it than the paint itself.
 
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