E'TAC Color Wheels

Wow! Thank you so much. I have printed them on photo paper and laminated them myself. They look fantastic and will be so useful, especially for us E'TAC users
 
It is an awesome find. I just don't understand the highlighted colours on the first two charts.

EDT: Okay wait, I think I understand now. The colour straight out of the bottle is not a "clean" colour but already shaded.
 
I have printed them on photo paper and laminated them myself.
I was thinking of doing that too, but I'm not too impressed with how my printer does color. Maybe I'll take the files to a copy shop and have it done there.

It is an awesome find. I just don't understand the highlighted colours on the first two charts.

EDT: Okay wait, I think I understand now. The colour straight out of the bottle is not a "clean" colour but already shaded.
Ah-ha! Good eye! I was staring at it trying to figure it out. Thanks.
 
I was thinking of doing that too, but I'm not too impressed with how my printer does color. Maybe I'll take the files to a copy shop and have it done there.


Ah-ha! Good eye! I was staring at it trying to figure it out. Thanks.

I wondered why the flesh did not have a shaded value then I realised it is a tinted colour, not a clean colour.
 
It would be worth it to take the files to a printing place and have them make big copies and laminate them.
 
I have the Etac color wheels for shade, tint and tone and am having a little hard time understanding tint and tone. Are they set up to get lighter tints and tones by using the reducer base or by using white. Surely not white since that is opaque. I am trying to get an idea of how many drops of each different color to get the color I want and it sure is confusing for this old muddy brain.:confused::confused::confused: Maybe someone can try to explain a system you might use that I might could understand. I also want to convert the colors to other paints without going through a huge amount of paint just to find out if the mix is comparable to their chart
Any advise on this would be appreciated. :thumbsup::thumbsup:
Thanks

Richard
 
Thanks AndreZA for the video. That helps a bunch. I used to own a photo color lab and it was setup to use cyan, magenta and yellow for printing. Mixing paint is really throwing me off on getting what I need. I know I'll eventually get the grips on mixing paint. I can get close to start but the tone and tint is throwing me off. I didn't think white was used to lighten instead of clear base but I have used grey to darken. I think I'll make a chart for myself that will show how many drops of each to get a certain color and hang it on the wall for reference.
Thanks for taking the time to respond.:thumbsup:

Richard
 
But white is not used to lighten, it is used to change the tone. White + next colour up on the wheel lightens.

Here is the Munsell system.

Munsell.jpg
 
But white is not used to lighten, it is used to change the tone. White + next colour up on the wheel lightens.

Here is the Munsell system.

Munsell.jpg


Got it.:):thumbsup: Thanks. That makes a big difference with my thinking. I don't know why I have such a problem with this but it is a lot clearer now.

Thanks a bunch for the time to help.

Richard
 
Is the shade color wheel on the 3rd page being darkened with Sepia smoke instead of black? Also, all the colors that are not on the outside of the color wheels stay consistent between the three pages except Golden ocher. Looks like it is a combination of Culebra gold and Arylide yellow that had been changed with one of the three modifiers. Am I seeing that right?
 
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