Better scratch on paper.

Micha der Wolf

Air-Valve Autobot!
Hi Friend,

I recently did a test. I sprayed the Varnish on my airbrush paper. (Schöllershammer N0.4, 250gr/m²)
After the drying I sprayed some colors and I could erase them and scratch them.
The paint dried more slowly and it was also possible to completely remove the paint. Unfortunately I did not take pictures this time but next week I could do that.

Liebe Grüße Micha.
 
Nice micha, what varnish did you use? Thanx for sharing, i will try on my paper as i cant get any airbrush papers in my country!,


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I use a matt varnish for Oil and acrylic paintings. It's not a big brand.

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Sounds good Micha, let us know how you get on next time. If you have pics thats great. It will be good to see the results.

Lee
 
Sounds good, only being stingy with money I wouldn't do it on 4g, but something cheaper, and save the 4g for when I wanted to use its particular properties. But then if I got any tighter with cash, I'd squeak when I walked :D
 
The varnish improves the ability to scratch on the paper without damaging it. Nevertheless, one must be careful. I also have to pay attention to the money. I have no experience with 4G.
I'm with @Squishy. You are basically now painting on the varnish and it does not matter what is underneath.
Not quite, paper is softer than steel.:p
I am mainly concerned about making a cheap surface so that the technology works.
 
Not quite, paper is softer than steel.:p
I am mainly concerned about making a cheap surface so that the technology works.

Not a true comparison but okay. If you seal cheap bristol board you will get the same results as with sealed Schoellershammer. You are painting on the varnish and no longer on the fibres.
 
I mean Schöllershammer No.4, not Schöllershammer 4G.
4G is too expensive for me to practice. I'm only looking for ways.
Excuse my exaggerated comparison.
 
I mean Schöllershammer No.4, not Schöllershammer 4G.
4G is too expensive for me to practice. I'm only looking for ways.
Excuse my exaggerated comparison.

No.4 and 4G is the same thing. 4G is available in thick and thin where No.4 is thin only and in pads. The Harder & Steenbeck paper is also No.4. I practice on what I'm going to paint on. No point in getting a technique perfect and when you need to sell the artwork your painting on something else.
 
i have been using this method for a while now and use windsor newton varnish on my 4G paper, i have also tried it on cheaper bristol board and i gotta say there is a difference.
i found on the bristol board it was still easier to damage the surface while scratching even with the varnish on. this is just my view as i have tested it. [emoji111]️


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How does the 4g handle eraser and blade work? I'm on my last board of Letramax 6000, and it seems they aren't making it anymore. At least not in the States.
Dru's synthetic paper looks great, but, man, it's not cheap...
 
So, I have today my Schöllershammer Airbrush paper tested.
I wanted to make the difference visible when I used pure paper or treated with Varnish.
I have to say the erasability, and scratchability improves considerably. Very little pressure is required for these techniques. However, the lacquer does not form a closed layer, a low absorbency is maintained.
With Schmincke colors it works very well, also diluted.
The left side is varnished.
20161114_153108.jpg 20161114_154427.jpg 20161114_154448.jpg 20161114_154458.jpg 20161114_154508.jpg 20161114_155017.jpg
Then I have yet another paper tested but only on roll is offered. It is a Solvent Paper double Sided paper with 230 g / m² from the company EMBLEM. It works perfectly and the surface is very firm.
A roll with 1.372m width and 50m length costs here 99, - € A lot of material for a price per m² of 1.45 €
20161114_141324.jpg 20161114_141459.jpg 20161114_141716.jpg
 
I love seeing these sorts of experiments, it helps everyone out immensely. I have a go at a light coat on my art pad, just to slow the absorbancy.
As for alternatives to the yupo / blair paper is suggest a google search for local paper manufacturers look for synthetic or waterproof paper. its used a lot for menus etc. its still not pennies per piece but from the right outlet it can be significantly cheaper than the known brands.
 
heres a starting point for you AD you can request a sample, the size of which is dependant on the company

http://polyartusa.com

I just typed "synthetic or waterproof paper USA" into google..
I tried som test pieces of Polyart and it did not work the same. The clay coating flattened the paint color and when you erase and scratch the clay coat comes right off. And the surface becomes glossy.

I tried Polyart, Teslin and one other that I am blanking on.

Paint on
 
I tried som test pieces of Polyart and it did not work the same. The clay coating flattened the paint color and when you erase and scratch the clay coat comes right off. And the surface becomes glossy.

I tried Polyart, Teslin and one other that I am blanking on.

Paint on

yes., I tried a clay coated one here, not a fan.... it was almost like the clay/paint melted together,
I've used 'Duracopy' which if I had to describe it, it would be "its a very thin plastic film" but I get on with it a treat ! "ember" the dragon - my current avatar, and the 'sturt desert pea' PP I did for Nada were both done on the film, the paint sticks well, scratches cleanly(doesn't pull chunks of paint) with practise the erasing works well too. the only down side is that its not heavy like the yupo..... but it works with Createx well.
 
There has to be a company in the US that makes a paper comparable to what Dru sell. I just can't come to the justification of spending that kind of money unless it is for a customer or a gift for someone. To do a painting and have it sit in a drawer or my basement to mold and get destroyed is a horrible waist. The paper itself is awesome. Maybe I will tell my wife to get me some for Christmas. Unless coating the illustration board like Eddy Wouters method works for me.


Paint on
 
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