Wrong about ag-2050

J

jared pittman

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I have been using wicked base to Seal EFX it works great but like 72 hours to take full effect- bought 4030 intercoat clear, that stuff is noxious! Anyway tested all of these with 10 minutes blowdryer the ag-2050 blew me away took a key to it will not scratch off is very very strong with heat assistance- EFX will not even budge when rubbed with water.
 
I exclusively use etac, either private stock or EFX, when painting hard surfaces or T-Shirts I always use the ag2050 which not only helps flow but really strengthens the paint. When sending any stuff away for clearcoat I always give a good coating of ag2050 for protection.

As you say it does dry rock hard and just lately I am wondering why I bother with private stock, when efx mixed with ag2050 just just a good a job.
 
I exclusively use etac, either private stock or EFX, when painting hard surfaces or T-Shirts I always use the ag2050 which not only helps flow but really strengthens the paint. When sending any stuff away for clearcoat I always give a good coating of ag2050 for protection.

As you say it does dry rock hard and just lately I am wondering why I bother with private stock, when efx mixed with ag2050 just just a good a job.
Private Stock stays flexible on fabric and is not meant to be used on fabric with 2050. You are supposed to use Private stock on hard surfaces and then top coat with 2050 as an inter coat clear. EFX is meant to be an illustration paint that allows reworking on hard surfaces.

My last few shirts I used private stock at 65 psi so it would saturate the fabric and only did a layer of trans base with a quick heat set to lock down the fibers before painting. Then after painting I top coated with Poly Tac and the shirts have not faded one bit.

EFX I use strictly on Illustration board and Canvas and other such items. I have tried a ton of different paints over the years but for me E'Tac has out preformed all others. However Createx Illustration does work betted on Synthetic Paper but it has a bad tip dry issue in my case.


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I can't get my 2050 to be so hardy. I've mixed it in and sprayed it over EFX and Marissa colours and I can still remove it. It is tougher than without but not as tough as I read here.
 
I actually had good luck spraying this stuff as it is very "sticky" and didn't bead up like my 4030 and 4004 want to do. I thought it was expensive stuff, but when I actually compared it to 4030 it is quite a bit cheaper.

I had to use a LPH-80 1.2 to get it to spray well as a protective coating.... what are you other guys using? What does it thin with.. water?
 
I can't get my 2050 to be so hardy. I've mixed it in and sprayed it over EFX and Marissa colours and I can still remove it. It is tougher than without but not as tough as I read here.
the AG 2050 needs heat setting to get that tough and it has a window in witch you can still erase it , down here in the Netherlands I always let it cure for 24 hours after heat setting it first
 
I exclusively use etac, either private stock or EFX, when painting hard surfaces or T-Shirts I always use the ag2050 which not only helps flow but really strengthens the paint. When sending any stuff away for clearcoat I always give a good coating of ag2050 for protection.

As you say it does dry rock hard and just lately I am wondering why I bother with private stock, when efx mixed with ag2050 just just a good a job.
Just wondering how much you add to your paint. Do you also use in conjunction with condition-air.
 
Just wondering how much you add to your paint. Do you also use in conjunction with condition-air.
For t-shirts I first use the ag near and put down a light layer to flatten the nap then heat seal with a hot iron over baking paper. Then I use a ratio of 1:1 with colour , no reduction, (I find the ag helps with flow). Seer this link for the full sbs for one of my t-shirts

http://www.airbrushforum.org/index.php?threads/14582/

The t-shirt hasn't faded at all..

For hard surfaces such as the bike tank I did, first step was a base of ps white , again 1:1 , then sealed with a coat of pure ag. For the rest of the painting again I mixed ag with paint 1:1 no reduction or condition air.

Once finished I used a coat of ag heat set with a hear gun before going off to clear.

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For t-shirts I first use the ag near and put down a light layer to flatten the nap then heat seal with a hot iron over baking paper. Then I use a ratio of 1:1 with colour , no reduction, (I find the ag helps with flow). Seer this link for the full sbs for one of my t-shirts

http://www.airbrushforum.org/index.php?threads/14582/

The t-shirt hasn't faded at all..

For hard surfaces such as the bike tank I did, first step was a base of ps white , again 1:1 , then sealed with a coat of pure ag. For the rest of the painting again I mixed ag with paint 1:1 no reduction or condition air.

Once finished I used a coat of ag heat set with a hear gun before going off to clear.

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Thanks bean. I'm wondering if Etac FX with AG will allow me to use it on this synthetic paper. I'm so tired of CI issues.
 
I did a few paintings to test out synthetic paper with etac, this her is an example all done with efx,

http://www.airbrushforum.org/index.php?threads/15096/

I found the ag2050 to be a bit fragile on synthetic paper so coated it afterwards with ag2050. I then found If you use ag2050 with efx on synthetic paper mixed 1:1 you will reduce the fragility and certainly does stick better.

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I did a few paintings to test out synthetic paper with etac, this her is an example all done with efx,

http://www.airbrushforum.org/index.php?threads/15096/

I found the ag2050 to be a bit fragile on synthetic paper so coated it afterwards with ag2050. I then found If you use ag2050 with efx on synthetic paper mixed 1:1 you will reduce the fragility and certainly does stick better.

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Thanks. That's exactly what I'm looking for. This paper is working better than Yupo. I can do a lot more subtle erasing.
 

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