Robbyrockett2
Air-Valve Autobot!
the gel is still pushing it though. The overspray is big droplets that dont go far but it is pretty smelly.
Nozzle size
- Thread starter huskystafford
- Start date
I will do that. I am trying to do some project which could be repeatable and I was thinking how to get costs down to a minimum. But this is great idea. Maybe it would be very cheap. My stepdad is old school biker(70+ years old-he actually raced with bikes when people still were pushing bikes at starting line), his buddies have bunch of interests and I know one is spraying cars. I could probably get away with a beer or two.
Robby renting wouldn't be optimal for my needs, cause I need to test if those panels would sell and probably at start they won't. Marketing, exposure etc. If that would be more pieces then renting would be an option. But I don't won't to risk loosing much money on a idea. I rather try with low investment. Damn, I noticed each year I am more of a cheap bastard then year before
Robbyrockett2
Air-Valve Autobot!
Yeah that makes more sense if youre not doing a bunch of em for sure
Robbyrockett2
Air-Valve Autobot!
As a last resort on a flat panel you can wax some acrylic sheet or put wax paper on top of glass, brush the gel on your panel and put it face down on the sheet to cure. Pop it off and bam. No spraying, nice pretty finish
Just be sure its not polycarbonate
Acrylic is better than the paper because you can turn it over and see theres no air bubbles.
Anyways, Malky gave you the most practical direction it sounds like
Just be sure its not polycarbonate
Acrylic is better than the paper because you can turn it over and see theres no air bubbles.
Anyways, Malky gave you the most practical direction it sounds like
I can't find gel in my country.. I used keywords gel clear -.-
Robbyrockett2
Air-Valve Autobot!
http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/...ylester/superior-clear-polyester-gelcoat.html
http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/...er/epoxy-bonding-polyester-gelcoat-clear.html
https://www.cfsnet.co.uk/acatalog/Clear_Spray_Gel_Coat_Clear.html
Something like these.
I dont know if you can get them from there but maybe theres something in the wording on these that can help you find it.
Now that I think more on it, not having worked with those brands Id probably use a thick sheet of waxed glass rather than acrylic ,its impossible to predict if it will work right with PC or acrylic.
Its something I worked out a long time ago with the specific products I use.
http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/...er/epoxy-bonding-polyester-gelcoat-clear.html
https://www.cfsnet.co.uk/acatalog/Clear_Spray_Gel_Coat_Clear.html
Something like these.
I dont know if you can get them from there but maybe theres something in the wording on these that can help you find it.
Now that I think more on it, not having worked with those brands Id probably use a thick sheet of waxed glass rather than acrylic ,its impossible to predict if it will work right with PC or acrylic.
Its something I worked out a long time ago with the specific products I use.
Thank you, I am gonna investigate a little what are all of my options including with this stuff. Ordering from uk is not a problem if I can't get it here. I just need to decide what path is the optimal for me.
Robbyrockett2
Air-Valve Autobot!
keep in mind there is a learning curve on this stuff.
As long as youre ordering stuff;
Slick surface polyethylene sheet (hdpe) can eliminate the need for wax too and should work fine with any brand.
It should only cost about $10 for a sheet the size you need. Prices swing wildly from supplier to supplier for some reason.
Its a lot of effort for something that will only work on flat panels and that youre not sure youll use a lot but yeah just giving options.
there are those pour on epoxy clears too but theyre no good if your panels will be used outside in the sunlight.
As long as youre ordering stuff;
Slick surface polyethylene sheet (hdpe) can eliminate the need for wax too and should work fine with any brand.
It should only cost about $10 for a sheet the size you need. Prices swing wildly from supplier to supplier for some reason.
Its a lot of effort for something that will only work on flat panels and that youre not sure youll use a lot but yeah just giving options.
there are those pour on epoxy clears too but theyre no good if your panels will be used outside in the sunlight.
all of your ideas are good brainstorming which helps so I can decide where to go. I can always change my workflow down the road if I see it is worth it. I am realist, I know I would probably curse a lot when doing with new stuff
I found one business which they prepare stuff for sprayin and they also do finish coat. They do 1k and 2k coat. They can spray on plastic,aluminium and bunch of other metals. What is the difference between 1k and 2k?
Robbyrockett2
Air-Valve Autobot!
I just recently had that experience. Trying to spray pettit EZ poxy. It's the devil. I'll never use it again.
Oil modified urethane enamel with silicone. It doesnt act like any normal paint at all. The window between flowing out smooth and sagging/running is almost non-existant. The dry times are ridiculous and you cant recoat after it flashes or it will never dry underneath. Has to be sanded between thin coats that can take two days to dry at 60F so you basically have to plan a week around it because it will take 3 coats to get good coverage. Once its sandable you should give it another 6 hours before recoating because it can wrinkle itself. I dont think its as durable as 2k auto paints. It took me ten days and trying a lot of methods to get an ok paint job with it. All for the same price as a cheap 2k auto paint.
The only reason i can possibly think of to use it is in a boatyard where you cant spray. It does roll and tip (roller and brush) to an ok finish but I dont think its whole lot more durable or better looking than rust-oleum to justify the price difference.
But you know, slap the word marine on anything and it quadruples the price LOL
Oil modified urethane enamel with silicone. It doesnt act like any normal paint at all. The window between flowing out smooth and sagging/running is almost non-existant. The dry times are ridiculous and you cant recoat after it flashes or it will never dry underneath. Has to be sanded between thin coats that can take two days to dry at 60F so you basically have to plan a week around it because it will take 3 coats to get good coverage. Once its sandable you should give it another 6 hours before recoating because it can wrinkle itself. I dont think its as durable as 2k auto paints. It took me ten days and trying a lot of methods to get an ok paint job with it. All for the same price as a cheap 2k auto paint.
The only reason i can possibly think of to use it is in a boatyard where you cant spray. It does roll and tip (roller and brush) to an ok finish but I dont think its whole lot more durable or better looking than rust-oleum to justify the price difference.
But you know, slap the word marine on anything and it quadruples the price LOL
Robbyrockett2
Air-Valve Autobot!
1k or 2k is just a one part paint or two part. No idea why "k".
basically noone uses 1k clears anymore. Not as durable and not as quick to put on. Same goes for primer, plus the build on most 1k primers suck compared to 2k or polyester
A lot of base paint is still 1k.
So if I decide to go that route 2k is better right?
Robbyrockett2
Air-Valve Autobot!
for sure
I am double checking just in case
I believe the "K" comes the German word
"Komponente" which obviously means component, so 1k is single component and 2k is two components, the general theory is that 2k is always going be more robust which I'm inclined to agree with since always did natural wood bar tops with a 2k lacquer and years of slamming beer glasses onto it seemed to do little damage, the first coat of lacquer was almost like water so it wouid penetrate the wood two around 2mm making it rock hard, and the stuff we used just happened to be German, they're not just famous for prestige cars
Robbyrockett2
Air-Valve Autobot!
I thought maybe the paint fumes just made painters resort to spelling phonetically ( kumponint) and then finally couldnt string that many letters together
I thought maybe the paint fumes just made painters resort to spelling phonetically ( kumponint) and then finally couldnt string that many letters together
LOL while living in Holland all wood fillers and repair systems we used were two component, spelled and pronounced the same as German, if you tried to say "component" like an Italian you would have the correct pronunciation, although their is an "e" at the end of the German spelling it isn't actually pronounced, just like the "b" in lamb.
It's quite incredible how much knowledge you can find on Oaf and to think I was ''sceptical'' to join here. My best decision at the end of last year was to join OAF.
It's quite incredible how much knowledge you can find on Oaf and to think I was ''sceptical'' to join here. My best decision at the end of last year was to join OAF.
Every day is a school day, but far more fun than the excremente school I went to
