introduction

Umm ink is another ball game, i know nothing about it. Seems from watching others its much harder to use.
Out of the paints at foxy i would go Createx illustration maybe etac. You'll have a lot of support that way as many people here use them.
You'll be surprised how far they go. Working on posterboard, about 1m by 1/2m, each time i use a color its generally a number of drops, usually totaling less than ten, and half of that ends up washed out of the brush in the end. The only time you'll fill a cup is doing a full background color.

For your purpose I would maybe think about switching to a system of golden airbrush medium, and using the acrylics you normally use.
You could kind of streamline your paint system that way. For now though i would get a commonly used set of paint until your real familiar with how it should perform. Then you can start playing around with a lot less frustration.
 
Ah okay.. I just want to make sure the cleaning part gets done correctly, since my previous (excrementty/cheap) airbrush broke after minimal use since I knew nothing about how to clean it.
I wouldnt be quick to blame your cleaning....even the best of the cheapo brushes require a lot of special care and fiddling to keep going well.
Yellow I would consider buying a big bottle of, its so weak and used in so many color mixes you go through it like crazy.
But By the time you are most of the way through a normal primary set you will have a better idea what will suit you
 
Umm ink is another ball game, i know nothing about it. Seems from watching others its much harder to use.
Out of the paints at foxy i would go Createx illustration maybe etac. You'll have a lot of support that way as many people here use them.
You'll be surprised how far they go. Working on posterboard, about 1m by 1/2m, each time i use a color its generally a number of drops, usually totaling less than ten, and half of that ends up washed out of the brush in the end. The only time you'll fill a cup is doing a full background color.

For your purpose I would maybe think about switching to a system of golden airbrush medium, and using the acrylics you normally use.
You could kind of streamline your paint system that way. For now though i would get a commonly used set of paint until your real familiar with how it should perform. Then you can start playing around with a lot less frustration.

Really? I had a feeling it was something like that, but how can it be? I mean it takes pretty much paint to cover a big area with paintbrush (oil/acrylics)

I will order the rest tomorrow, (airbrush, paint, etc) but Im super grateful for the guidance I've got from here, I would have done a tone of expensive mistakes if it wasnt for this forum :p
 
Thats just spraying for you, not to mention an extremely high pigment load in AB paints compared to other types usually.
 
lol, that will teach me for sleeping and actually doing some work...... you guys have been going nuts.

I'll go back to where i left off and put my 2 cents worth in for each post, so i apologise for the next manic post a thon
 
You can easily put a water trap on the Cevik, you just connect your trap to a hose and plug it in to the compressor, if you want to buy the the Cevik, do that then I'll tell you how to do the rest.

Basically starting from the compressor, you would have your euro quick connect output, hose with quick connect bayonet at comptessor end and same femal quick disconnect at the outlet end, 1/4" quick connect bayonet on the feed side of your trap and a 1/4" male to 1/8" male adapter on the output side of your trap, you'll end up with a setup similar to this;

View attachment 54164

Simply connect a standard QD hose between your compressor and the left side of the trap in this photo, you use a bracket with clamp to hold the trap/regulator to your table or even screw it to a wall near where you work.

I have the same type of setup in my shed, Compressor>hose>regulator-watertrap>hose>mini moisture trap>QuickConnect>airbrush.
It works well, i've had minimal water trapped by the one closest to the compressor, and that was in the middle of winter. I've never had anything in the mini one at the airbrush end.
 
Really? I had a feeling it was something like that, but how can it be? I mean it takes pretty much paint to cover a big area with paintbrush (oil/acrylics)

I will order the rest tomorrow, (airbrush, paint, etc) but Im super grateful for the guidance I've got from here, I would have done a tone of expensive mistakes if it wasnt for this forum :p
If I can stick my two cents in here, when you apply acrylics with a brush you're generally applying a thick layer of paint. With an airbrush you are applying a microscopically thin layer of paint. Therefore a few drops can really last a long time. Also you will probably end up reducing the paint which will make it last even longer. Some people have bottles that last them for years.
 
the only comment i have here is that you dont have a nozzle on the list,
there are cheaper spray out post than the iwata, but still look professional (ebay if youre not in a hurry, I bought one and sitting alongside the genuine iwata you cant pick the difference ! )

The createx cleaner and restorer will only be required if you are going to use createx paints, If you are going to use Golden or Etac then you wont benefit from these createx products.
If you are going to play with Createx then the restorer is almost compulsory, remember its reuseable (a small jar-like the small siphon feed glass jars is a handy thing) make sure you dont get 'Airbrush colors' as they are aimed at the textile side of things. Wicked / Wicked Detail / Illustration all have a learning curve that many cant cope with...... dont say you werent warned.
 
the only comment i have here is that you dont have a nozzle on the list,
there are cheaper spray out post than the iwata, but still look professional (ebay if youre not in a hurry, I bought one and sitting alongside the genuine iwata you cant pick the difference ! )

The createx cleaner and restorer will only be required if you are going to use createx paints, If you are going to use Golden or Etac then you wont benefit from these createx products.
If you are going to play with Createx then the restorer is almost compulsory, remember its reuseable (a small jar-like the small siphon feed glass jars is a handy thing) make sure you dont get 'Airbrush colors' as they are aimed at the textile side of things. Wicked / Wicked Detail / Illustration all have a learning curve that many cant cope with...... dont say you werent warned.
Haha, I just picked a random cleaning liquid, but I'll make the order tomorrow, so I will read everything tomorrow and go from that.
What do you think of the compressor I bought? :D

I dont know yet which brand Im going to use for paint. but I will take that into consideration :) Everything is new for me, so Im learning from this thread (and some youtube videos).

edit: I was going to add nozzle but I didnt know which, and it was so expensive. I will add it tomorow. bedtime now. thanks all!
 
My brushes have Macs so i never mess with the regulators They sit at 40 i think. I never really know what pressure im using. You know how it is, it all eventually is just played by ear

a quick connect with the Mac (Micro Air Control) built in is better than buying Mac specific airbrushes, many have issues knocking the inbuilt one as it sits just under the airbrush cup.

The G-Mac will fit the Iwata - I've had this for 5 years, brilliant unit, dial is large.
https://www.amazon.com/Grex-G-MAC-Valve-Connect-Coupler/dp/B002XQ2K84
after seeing a post by AndreZA i bought a Harder & Steenbeck quick connect with Mac Valve. smaller dial which may/maynot be to your liking.
https://spraygunner.com/quick-coupling-1-8-with-valve/

Dont overlook Spraygunner for the other parts too........ I'll do an equivilant shopping list to what you had above so you can compare prices. Even i've bought from him, and i'm at the opposite end of the globe, he's brilliant to deal with
EDIT: spraygunner only sells second hand Iwata's that have been traded in, all serviced before selling.
 
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Ah okay.. I just want to make sure the cleaning part gets done correctly, since my previous (excrementty/cheap) airbrush broke after minimal use since I knew nothing about how to clean it.

Also, this will sound stupid, but when it comes to airbrush paint, which is super expensive compared to oil and acrylics im used to buy..
..is there any way to mix the paint with another liquid to get more of it? Because I assume that the small bottles (like these http://www.foxystudio.com/product/liquitex-professional-acrylic-ink-sets/) would run out very fast?
Or do you usually buy big bottles?

I mean, those small bottles cant be many filled "cups" in the airbrush?

I thought the same thing when i started..... if you are using Createx then you will be very unlikely to use it unreduced, so you'll add reducer and you'll be amazed how much 'coverage' you'll get from just a few drops. as stated already, its heavily pigmented so a little goes a long way.
Etac EFX can be used straight out of the bottle or reduced with water if needed, they do make a couple of 'additives' for various things like hardening the paint.

Its also very rare you 'fill' a cup and use it all, unless you are starting and fill the cup then wind up throwing 3/4 of it out because you didnt use as much as you thought you would. (been there)

just remember, the more you 'add' to the paint the more the pigment is dispersed which means the colour sprays lighter, which means you need more layers to get full saturation.
 
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Really? I had a feeling it was something like that, but how can it be? I mean it takes pretty much paint to cover a big area with paintbrush (oil/acrylics)

I will order the rest tomorrow, (airbrush, paint, etc) but Im super grateful for the guidance I've got from here, I would have done a tone of expensive mistakes if it wasnt for this forum :p
When you lay paint with a paint brush the layer of paint may be half a millimetre thick, when you airbrush you are talking microns thick (1,000 microns to a millimetre)
 
a quick connect with the Mac (Micro Air Control) built in is better than buying Mac specific airbrushes, many have issues knocking the inbuilt one as it sits just under the airbrush cup.

The G-Mac will fit the Iwata - I've had this for 5 years, brilliant unit, dial is large.
https://www.amazon.com/Grex-G-MAC-Valve-Connect-Coupler/dp/B002XQ2K84
after seeing a post by AndreZA i bought a Harder & Steenbeck quick connect with Mac Valve. smaller dial which may/maynot be to your liking.
https://spraygunner.com/quick-coupling-1-8-with-valve/

Dont overlook Spraygunner for the other parts too........ I'll do an equivilant shopping list to what you had above so you can compare prices. Even i've bought from him, and i'm at the opposite end of the globe, he's brilliant to deal with
EDIT: spraygunner only sells second hand Iwata's that have been traded in, all serviced before selling.
I didn't really set out to get all built in macs, just happened. They dont bother me a bit, sometimes I use them sort of as a forward grip.
 
I didn't really set out to get all built in macs, just happened. They dont bother me a bit, sometimes I use them sort of as a forward grip.
but for the extra that you have unintentionally spent on MAC brushes, you could have bought a decent external MAC quick connect and put all the savings into a new airbrush lol

Just remember when you get a quick connect you will need the male adapter to screw onto the airbrush. usually less than EUR6
 
but for the extra that you have unintentionally spent on MAC brushes, you could have bought a decent external MAC quick connect and put all the savings into a new airbrush lol

Just remember when you get a quick connect you will need the male adapter to screw onto the airbrush. usually less than EUR6
I have qc's
Extra? not sure if you can beat $90 for ps-270 :) It's a serious value
And the $35 pz360 well...cant really spend extra there
Eventually I'll probably need an external mac but probably not for a while.
But yeah, they just kind of came with the other features I hunted out.
 
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