Help me, Paint clogging

Ok first off,
I using a iwata eclipse on a 8 gal shop compressor.
The AB keeps getting clogged it seems, however when I flush it clear and clean nozzle it sprays water perfectly fine and heavy, then put the paint back in cup and same thing.
I was just using this same paint earlier in the day with no problems ?
It's air brush paint with drop or two of AB flow improver to lubricate. The last AB I had, a cheap knock off eclipse, when this happend, it never recovered even after I replaced noz/needle, trigger and rubber seals.
Why does it do this ? What can I do ? even if I thin the paint so thin that tension is lost, it still clogs it.
I haven't tried using a different color which I might do next and find out if it's just something that got in my pants.
any advice, insight, something I might not be thinking of, all would be helpful. I've been airbrushing for a couple years now so this one has left me a bit puzzle last time it was with a $25 airbrush this time I don't want to just have to junk my eclipse, although if that happened, I might start using my new HP C Plus that I got last holiday season.

What type of paint? what kind of reduction, 3drops reducer 1drop paint etc... what psi are you running at?
Is the flow improver the same manufacturer as the paint?

If you pour out the paint that is in your cup when this starts to happen is there any clumping?
Are you straining your paint?
When this happens can you dump out your paint and put water in the cup, does it spray fine or do you need to clean it for it to spray normal again?

Paint is citadel model air and reducer is Vallejo air brush flow improver, I strained paint and their were clumps, it spared better after that, that was part of problem however ironically it's a weird glitch with this color only it drys and globs on nozzle, I am going to try some retarder next time maybe my ratio isn't exact, I eye ball it I watch a pro model painter on YouTube and follow his methods of mixing I would say it's about 3-1 paint to flow improver, i do have to scrub head with tooth brush to get it to spray water after pouring paint, I am gonna strain it another 3 or 4 times, I am using multiple layers of window screening in a make shift funnel, I needed something in ratio to my 12-20ml paint pots.

I reduced the Wicked black paint I use with a 20 to 1 ratio with the created high performance reducer. I use an Iwata Eclipse hp cs at a out 20 psi....the thinner the better for me
I don't leave the crown on while painting so taking care of tip dry is fast and easy. The thicker the paint is, the faster it clogs for me

I like the wicked colors and the wicked reducer it's much thinner createx in general. I would use the wicked for model cars. Unfortunately wargaming has its weird color palates, it's interesting to see how the different community's use their airbrushs what kinda paints they use. Sometimes it's very different techniques paints and even Theory at times. Honestly though people who actually create art with their airbrushs are amazing!
painting a model takes skill but no where near the skill to do a photo realistic air brush portrait. I am sure there's a wargaming airbrush forum but this is far superior! Here your getting advice from really talented artists! Rather than hobby painters! As far as my skills after 2 years I fell really comfortable with controlling it and knowing what I can do, I've also gone with guard off tip and that would be easier to clean what's does it mean when after you clean it still spraying bad inner cup clog?

It does sound like a paint issue and there could also possibly be paint in the nozzle still even after scrubbing it. Try another colour of paint first like you suggested, see if it happens with that, it could just be the one colour. I had a similar issue with Trident yellow, it was really thick and I had to reduce it with their reducer and strain it several times before I could use it. BUT that was after it clogged my HP-B 3 times.
I would buy some proper strainers, 190 micron should suffice, they don't cost a lot off eBay or a local automotive store.
This sort of thing would be fine but have a search to see if you can get them cheaper.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nylon-Mesh-Paint-Filter-Tip-Strainers-25-Count-190-Micron-/281468050348

Lee

Being that the water is atomizing correctly through the brush I would gather that the flow improver is causing a reaction with the paint inside the nozzle and gumming up. All the straining won't stop it. If it is regular Createx you can reduce it with just water. Createx does have a tendency to tip dry no matter what even after reducing. Whatever paint you are using it may be the same scenario. I really think it is a reaction between the paint and flow enhancer.

In the past I had some fluorescent Wicked paint that would gum up in the nozzle and slowly drive the needle further back in the brush till it was completely clogged. I tried everything and everyone kept telling me it was a dirty nozzle, but once I got new paint it stoped. It was the paint itself. Straining, reducing and cleaning were of no help; it was the paint itself. Try without the flow stuff added or even no reduction. Just raise the air pressure a little and see. Also make sure the head is properly tight so that no air is getting inside the nozzle before the tip. The floating nozzle type Airbrush's need a proper seal to work effectively. Use the wrench that comes with the brush to make sure it is snug.


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So I can think of 3 possiblilities, 1 Water is flowing through fine because it has no pigment, but that doesn't mean the nozzle is not slightly blocked or dirty enough to cause issues for paint, if moving the needle gently back and forth by hand feels sticky or spongy this is a sure sign, and bubbles in the cup, but even if not, there could be something in there. Would be worth soaking the nozzle in airbrush restorer, then giving it a good clean (Createx 4012 reducer is excellent for this) to eliminate it as a possibility. Until you know it's 100% good, trying other paints etc, may give the wrong impression. (plus if you have been having issues it's more likely to block) 2 The paint and reducer you are using may not be compatable, and is gumming up, or your paint/reduction/air ratios are not dialled in and may need some tweaking - the pressure may be good enough for water, but anything thicker probably needs more. 3 Your paint has gone bad or become contaminated - This happened to me once, although with Wicked paint, and nothing that usually worked, worked - it was replaced as it was a new bottle, damaged by storage in incorrect temperatures.

It sounds to me like the 3rd option is most likely, and causing the 1st option, and you may be in a bit of a vicious circle right now. If your nozzle is clean, and the paint on it's own is ok, then provided your gun is in good shape, it's more likely to be the 2nd option.

Jord, Maybe I can build 190 micron strainers? The issue isn't the price it's that my paint pots are only 12-18 ML if I used a strainer like that half of my 4.26$ pot would be wasted, I have some of them for my hlvp automotive sprayer. When I use them the paint gets all on sides etc, maybe I can buy some and Then modified them. It's a paint issue, it doesn't happen with the other colors even other color similar to this color it's like a cream color, or bone, khaki whatever you want to call it the actual name is screaming skull . Yellows whites and cream/ bone khaki seem to be very stubborn colors,their part of the reason I got an airbrush because when you paint those collars with a regular brush it looks like crap as far as in the miniature and models scene.
I used a insulin needle on nozzle to clear. The reducer I use is designed for miniture paints and it's used by Kenny Boucher of Next level painting without problem and we both use the same collective brands.
He's a miniture painter who makes you tube videos to promote his mini painting service.
Thank you fot All the help guys I am fairly sure it's a paint issue and it was caused by mixing small Amount of white in cup for blends and white had chunks. My screen got it out, but I am gonna try some 190 micron. Would like Nampa have them?

Rob Afton said:

Jord, Maybe I can build 190 micron strainers? The issue isn't the price it's that my paint pots are only 12-18 ML if I used a strainer like that half of my 4.26$ pot would be wasted, I have some of them for my hlvp automotive sprayer. When I use them the paint gets all on sides etc, maybe I can buy some and Then modified them. It's a paint issue, it doesn't happen with the other colors even other color similar to this color it's like a cream color, or bone, khaki whatever you want to call it the actual name is screaming skull . Yellows whites and cream/ bone khaki seem to be very stubborn colors,their part of the reason I got an airbrush because when you paint those collars with a regular brush it looks like crap as far as in the miniature and models scene.
I used a insulin needle on nozzle to clear. The reducer I use is designed for miniture paints and it's used by Kenny Boucher of Next level painting without problem and we both use the same collective brands.
He's a miniture painter who makes you tube videos to promote his mini painting service.
Thank you fot All the help guys I am fairly sure it's a paint issue and it was caused by mixing small Amount of white in cup for blends and white had chunks. My screen got it out, but I am gonna try some 190 micron. Would like Nampa have them?

Click to expand...

Sounds like the paint has opaque white in it. Opaque dare thicker especially white. They clog very fast. If the paint is too thick it will look grainy at low pressure. I may have missed what brand of paint you are using. I still really feel it is you reducer messing with the paint.

Is it gumming up on the inside of the nozzle or the outside? Outside is tip dry and is more prevalent when spraying opaque paint. If it is on the inside then you are getting air inside the nozzle and not or the paint is not properly mixed. To strain use a piece of pantyhose stretched over the mouth of the bottle and the place the bottle top on. Also put you reducer in the cup first and the your paint and mix and back flush lightly. Also clean the needle tip regularly while spraying. When you begin to notice the paint lesson in you stroke stop and clean the tip either by picking the needle tip or using a moistened Q-tip (hollow body) don't back flush to clear because the air will dry the paint.

To me it doesn't sound like a dirty nozzle because you said it was a new brush and started immediately.


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In his second post, he stated that he is using Citadel paint with Vallejo flow improver- This thread seemed to go into Createx paint discussion. I'm not familiar with either of those types of paint but I would investigate the compatibility of those two products.

I'm with ABD on this one sounds like even thou your Straining your paint you might not be getting all the smaller clumps out and as they try to go thru the nozzle they keep getting bigger due to acumulation of the clumps strain it with the pantyhose trick and see if that cures it?

I was doing some research about the Citadel paint and it sound like it is a solvent based paint and Vallejo is formulated for Acrylic. This could be the issue it could be causing the paint to actually gum up as it reacts. There is a Citadel paint that is formulated for airbrushing and you thin it with their reducer. Also found this thread.
http://www.airbrushforum.org/members/redcore.4971/


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Get the correct reducer for the paint.