Hockey Dad

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MaskedMan

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Hello everyone,

I have a Iwata revolution CR.

I'm just starting airbrushing with a goalie mask as my first project and a short time line. The mask is ready for graphics but I'm having a hard time pulling the trigger.

I'm working on a practice mask but can't get one of the colors(mix) correct and trying to understand(visualize) the stencil stackup(layers) for each color. So I'm trying to learn as much as I can to produce a decent project.

My son plays for the University of Michigan Dearborn Hockey so the basic design is simple, color is difficult, and figuring out if the base should be white or black depending on which color goes on first, yellow or blue?

I think this is the same problem every newbie goes through until they get completed projects under their belt. We all learn from failures, I just don't have time to fail on this project.

So here is a question to anyone reading this: in the interest of time, should I base coat the mask and clear it(preserve the foundation) then sand the clear and lay down the graphics on top, then clear over that when done?

If there are threads I should read let me know.

Thanks
Allen
 
I can't help with the coating because I don't paint helmets . I am going to say if I was doing this I'd start with a white basecoat as most airbrush paints are thin and won't cover black with a very bright yellow. At least not without many coats of the yellow paint.and make sure your paint is completely cured before you put a stencil on it. What kind of paint are you using ?
 
Welcome home MaskedMan
Most times I do clear coat the base coat to protect it . Then after it is fully cured I will scuff it if a scotch bright pad just to dull it up and give it tooth for the paint to hold on to.
I am old school on painting colors on things so dark to light or in your case Blue to yellow . It is easier to cover the blue in the off chance you get a little yellow over spray on it it is harder to do on the yellow .
 
Okay just did a google search if your doing something like this
You can base it Yellow then tape your lines and logo on it then do the blue .

51NmmmUNdKL._SY300_.jpg
 
I can't help with the coating because I don't paint helmets . I am going to say if I was doing this I'd start with a white basecoat as most airbrush paints are thin and won't cover black with a very bright yellow. At least not without many coats of the yellow paint.and make sure your paint is completely cured before you put a stencil on it. What kind of paint are you using ?

I'm using Auto air and wicked transparent. I have regular createx (opaques) but read I should not use it for this application and also read I could use it but need to add 4030 intercoat.

I'm topcoating with 2k clear.

Thanks for the response.
Allen
 
Okay just did a google search if your doing something like this View attachment 49852
You can base it Yellow then tape your lines and logo on it then do the blue .
Thanks for the response.

I was thinking that would be the best approach but I can't spray the blue over the yellow else I end up with a green helmet. Would I shoot sealer over the yellow or just white or black depending on the base for the blue?
 
Thanks for the response.

I was thinking that would be the best approach but I can't spray the blue over the yellow else I end up with a green helmet. Would I shoot sealer over the yellow or just white or black depending on the base for the blue?
Unless your using transparent paint the blue should cover the Yellow without shifting to green But if you are worries about the shift you can Clear coat the Yellow to seal it in 100% then tape in your design on top or the clear after you scuff it of course.
 
Unless your using transparent paint the blue should cover the Yellow without shifting to green But if you are worries about the shift you can Clear coat the Yellow to seal it in 100% then tape in your design on top or the clear after you scuff it of course.
I guess this is the confusing part, createx Auto air doesn't have opaques. Can I use the regular createx airbrush opaques if I add the 4030 intercoat?
 
WICKED airbrush paint is the answer you are looking for. They like the autoair are made by Createx and are designed to paint pretty much anything.
The standard Createx is designed only for textiles and is not colorfast so it will fade. While Wicked , Wicked Detail , Createx Illustration , Autoair are colorfast paints and you can paint on hard surfaces as well as textiles with them.
You can also pick up Wicked paint at most Hobby Lobby's and please make sure to print off their 40% off coupon and save you some dough :D
having a kid in college you have to save all the money you can LOL.
Oh and use the 4040 http://www.coastairbrush.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Bleed_Checker 4030 will allow color bleeding. or use standard automotive clear
 
WICKED airbrush paint is the answer you are looking for. They like the autoair are made by Createx and are designed to paint pretty much anything.
The standard Createx is designed only for textiles and is not colorfast so it will fade. While Wicked , Wicked Detail , Createx Illustration , Autoair are colorfast paints and you can paint on hard surfaces as well as textiles with them.
You can also pick up Wicked paint at most Hobby Lobby's and please make sure to print off their 40% off coupon and save you some dough :D
having a kid in college you have to save all the money you can LOL.
Oh and use the 4040 http://www.coastairbrush.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Bleed_Checker 4030 will allow color bleeding. or use standard automotive clear
Thanks for all of the info.

I will pick more of the wicked paint using the 40% coupon (thanks for the college fund) on the paint set. I've been going through a lot of paint with all of the experimenting.

How about mixing up paint to get the correct color blue? The blue hex color is #00274c. I plan to work on mix again tonight but with the wicked blue (mixed with black). I tried the wicked detail blue and the AA blue and neither would come close, either to bright or too dark (purplish). I read about layering where you spray the 2 colors separate (one on top of the other) to get to the shade you want but making it repeatable seems impossible.
 
you can make a opaque blue using white as base when it turns out to light you can add some black or semi transparent black .
you can make your own semi transparent black with the transparent base
to color match it with the original color you spray as much layers as you need to saturate the color and compare it with the original color
 
using this site http://www.goldenpaints.com/mixer the blue is a phthalo blue and viridian green with a touch of white.
Granted you are not using golden paints but maybe it will give you a better starting point.
Due to I try not to use black to darken a color but it opposite on the color wheel .
 
Looks like it'll be a good project. I wish I had something helpful to add, but I'm a Newbie myself, so I'm here for moral support and interested to see how it turns out! Lol, be sure to post a pick of the end result.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for all of the encouragement and info. I am headed to the garage now to try some mixing. I will post a pic of the mask once complete.
 
Welcome from Australia,
looks like the gang has got you on the right track, i look forward to seeing the result.
 
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