dodgy trigger finger problem solved

Ronald art

Ronald art

Air-Valve Autobot!
I can or better love to work with stock triggers but I need a tad wider surface on my Iwata HP triggers , I dont do much custom work but if I do I only use the Iwata HP series and my finger keeps slipping off the triggers on those airbrushes it is not a real problem but it annoyed me so I started looking for a solution that would not make the trigger much higher but would give me more grip.
I tried thin leather patches but that didnt really work in the long run and today the solution stared me in the face when I opened a new Etac paint bottle : the little read cap seal that is so hard to remove fits perfectly over the round triggers and only raises the trigger by 1 or 2 mm depending on the way you secure it to the trigger I used double sided tape for mine so it is closer to 2 mm
I tested it today and it works like a charm :)
DSCN1003.JPG
 
If it works for you Ronald then carry on. Anything that makes it easier to airbrush s good.

Lee
 
cheers Lee if I could think of a way to just widen the top of the trigger without making the trigger taller I would be real happy but for now this solution does the trick for me
 
Look for a brand of epoxy putty called "Kneadatite". It's a longtime favorite of gaming mini sculptors because it cures to a hard rubber-like flexibility (and because it can survive high-temp modmaking processes). You can sometimes find it in gaming mini vendors re-branded as "Green Stuff". I think it was originally formulated for plumbing applications.

AAAnyway, this "hard rubber" consistency also makes it good for things like custom tool grips. When I first got my HP-CS a few years back, one of the things I did was to sculpt a trigger button out of kneadatite, as I was having the same issues as you with the stock trigger being slippery. Since it's a sculptable material, you can make your trigger pad whatever shape, thickness, etc you need. You can also make it harder or softer to taste by using different part A to part B ratios.

I don't use my custom trigger button anymore (I replaced the stock trigger with a KCS trigger, and that solved the same problem), but I'd still recommend this method/material.

If you just want to make the stock trigger grippy with minimal/no modification to the shape, silicone seal applied with a stipple brush will do the trick nicely.
 
Nessus said:
Look for a brand of epoxy putty called "Kneadatite". It's a longtime favorite of gaming mini sculptors because it cures to a hard rubber-like flexibility (and because it can survive high-temp modmaking processes). You can sometimes find it in gaming mini vendors re-branded as "Green Stuff". I think it was originally formulated for plumbing applications.

AAAnyway, this "hard rubber" consistency also makes it good for things like custom tool grips. When I first got my HP-CS a few years back, one of the things I did was to sculpt a trigger button out of kneadatite, as I was having the same issues as you with the stock trigger being slippery. Since it's a sculptable material, you can make your trigger pad whatever shape, thickness, etc you need. You can also make it harder or softer to taste by using different part A to part B ratios.

I don't use my custom trigger button anymore (I replaced the stock trigger with a KCS trigger, and that solved the same problem), but I'd still recommend this method/material.

If you just want to make the stock trigger grippy with minimal/no modification to the shape, silicone seal applied with a stipple brush will do the trick nicely.
Click to expand...
I will look into this epoxy putty for sure , right now I sanded down the trigger top as much as I could and lowered the trigger including the rubber cap to near stock size on the HP SB+ witch is airbrush I use the most besides the micron and I will do the same with the other triggers
 
There is a material called polymorph it is a plastic with a very low melting point of 60°C or 14o°F just drop it into hot water and fish it out with a fork and form it up with your fingers. When it cools it is very tough stuff . Thinners and acetone do make make the surface tacky until it evaporates the up side is put it in hot water again and reform it as many times as you like. Waterbase paints dont stick to it, but solvent based do . It is not an adhesive so it doesn't stick to metals or most common plastics with only one exception I know off polycarbonate and to that. It's like crap to a blanket. I use it for custom stencils and 3D masks as well very handy
 
palk said:
There is a material called polymorph it is a plastic with a very low melting point of 60°C or 14o°F just drop it into hot water and fish it out with a fork and form it up with your fingers. When it cools it is very tough stuff . Thinners and acetone do make make the surface tacky until it evaporates the up side is put it in hot water again and reform it as many times as you like. Waterbase paints dont stick to it, but solvent based do . It is not an adhesive so it doesn't stick to metals or most common plastics with only one exception I know off polycarbonate and to that. It's like crap to a blanket. I use it for custom stencils and 3D masks as well very handy
Click to expand...
that sounds real good I just dont know if I can buy it in the Netherlands tho
 
Its available from Evil Bay Its proper name is polycaprolactone It's not an adhesive, so you need to add mechanical retention lugs (but there are some plastics it sticks to and polycarbonate is one them )
 
I just posted a thread in tips and tricks showing polymorph and my trigger as well as my budget AB stand
by the way how do you edit a post or can you
 
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