Where to get split crown cap for Iwata Hi-Line HP-CH airbrush ?

to get the points as close as possible to 12 and 6 o'clock, you may be better off starting with the regular needle cap rather than a crown cap... you will have more flexibility on point placement. A dremel will take care of the rest with some careful use.
Good point. thanks ! but which aftermarket cap i have to use ? does veda 180 have non crown cap
 
if starting with a standard cap, it may be easier (and cheaper) to just use the real deal replacement part.
 
Hi @Shliosas welcome aboard. You've been here a bit and got some good answers. How about going and saying Hi properly and introduce yourself to the good folks here. What sort of gear do you use? Where do you live in the world? What do you paint? Painting background, that sort of thing. Here is a link to the intro section. http://www.airbrushforum.org/introductions/ Look forward to your post. Cheers Mark
 
The problem is with sending in an envelope shipping cost an 6-7 euro, we often had the problem that is was lost. There is no tracking on it. So then you don't want to say to the customer sorry it is lost, and I also can not resent it with the change it get lost again. That is why we sent it per package and yes that cost a lot more specially for only an few small items.
 
The problem is with sending in an envelope shipping cost an 6-7 euro, we often had the problem that is was lost. There is no tracking on it. So then you don't want to say to the customer sorry it is lost, and I also can not resent it with the change it get lost again. That is why we sent it per package and yes that cost a lot more specially for only an few small items.
just put some rocks and sand in the envelope along with caps. Its actually no a joke, in some package from China i found bag of cat liter along with paint bottle. XD
 
May be a personal preference thing, but in regards to modding a cap, IMO having the 2 prongs at 1:30 and 7:30 (...for right handers, 10:30 and 4:30 for lefties) is better than at 12:00 and 6:00. Having the prongs lined up straight vertical looks good in a "product showroom" sort of way, but having them lined up diagonally is more utilitarian, as it gives you the best visual window while working.

YMMV of course, depending on where you hold your head in relation to the brush (or vise-versa) while painting. Regardless of your own typical viewing angle, IMO you'd ideally want to match the orientation of the prong gap to that rather than just going for symmetry appeal.
 
May be a personal preference thing, but in regards to modding a cap, IMO having the 2 prongs at 1:30 and 7:30 (...for right handers, 10:30 and 4:30 for lefties) is better than at 12:00 and 6:00. Having the prongs lined up straight vertical looks good in a "product showroom" sort of way, but having them lined up diagonally is more utilitarian, as it gives you the best visual window while working.

YMMV of course, depending on where you hold your head in relation to the brush (or vise-versa) while painting. Regardless of your own typical viewing angle, IMO you'd ideally want to match the orientation of the prong gap to that rather than just going for symmetry appeal.

I also like mine like you mentioned. I watch the tip from top right. I also don't hold the gun 100% square with the surface so if the prongs were 12-6 the 6 o'clock one will touch when I go very close.
 
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