Guilty as charged: impatient

I admit it. I got impatient. the color coat hadn't been given enough time to cure (only 2hours) when I went to apply a clear coat. One of my stencil lines got blurred because of it, etc.

The reason I'm putting this here though is that I want to verify that what I *think* happened is actually what happened. I don't want to assume that it is just impatience that turned up this result.

If I understand correctly, the bubbles/spotting are due to an interaction between the clear coat and the color because the color wasn't cured. There is also a very faint orange peel texture that may not be visible in the image.

So.. is that assessment accurate, or is there perhaps something else that I missed?

Notes: Media used: enamel based
Canvas: Aluminum (cleaned with soap/water, wiped with alcohol, then allowed to dry completely (I didn't get impatient there)).

IT may also be a reaction between the paints. Was the clear compatible with the enamel? What was the guide line for topcoating?

Did you do a dust coat or two before increasing up to a flood coat? I have had this happen...I went a little to heavy too fast....

Looks like solvent pop. Probably either your impatience..or you went to heavy too soon on your clear.
It would help if you listed the exact paint and the exact clear you used though. I won't necessarily be able to tell you that they definitely are compatible, but for the most part I could tell you if they definitely are not.

Well, this one was a test, as my Airbrush has not arrived yet. The color is a transparent blue enamel by Dupli-color.

The clear is Rust-Oleum "crystal clear enamel".

Color had about 2hrs to dry in 60F garage.

And you and twood are probably right on the "to heavy" part. I need practice, this is the first time I've ever used clear coat. :/

Well, dupli-color enamel has a one hour window, so you actually waited too long technically.
Then yeah probably too heavy too soon after that.
Just be sure to let each light coat flash before you hit it with the heavier coat.
Don't forget to tack rag it - alot in a garage. I honestly can't tell from the pic if thats just dust thats been painted over. Though I don't think so.
Id say the combo of waiting too long and and going too heavy if i had to guess

Anyway , looks like your doing pretty good

The enamel stuff won't be a problem soon. Soon as I get my airbrush, I've got Candy2O to use (my mom = best mom).

While on the subject here... is there any benefit to doing clear coat, sand, clear coat? Or is that mainly something that is done with 2k clears?

Neural said:

The enamel stuff won't be a problem soon. Soon as I get my airbrush, I've got Candy2O to use (my mom = best mom).

While on the subject here... is there any benefit to doing clear coat, sand, clear coat? Or is that mainly something that is done with 2k clears?

Click to expand...

There is.... it's usually called flow coating. ummm whether it's worth your time or not depends on a lot of things.
Mainly can your skills and your gun let you lay down like glass , off the gun. If not then its not really worth it, youre better off just building your clear to a point you can sand and buff it without going through, If you use lacquer clear, sanding and buffing is very easy. If it's spray can clear you'll see very little benefit if any with flowcoating IMO. Maybe a tiny tiny tiny bit more depth

The candy2O has it's own set of problems with clearing over it. I haven't used it so I don't really know about it. Theres plenty of videos and info on the createx site though for that. Any clear over any base can give you solvent pop if you go too heavy on your coat.

Ok, good to know. Regarding the Candy2O, there's a lot of info. I'm also working on metal, so the tutorials/videos regarding working with Candy2O on automobiles is going to be very helpful. I already made sure I have a good size bottle of 4030.

Ok.. now I'm just confused. I have no bubbles and no orange peel. I let the color layer dry over night, so it's had a good 8 hours or so. I've put on clear coat and.... it is a *beautiful*.... satin. :/
I mean like.. I couldn't have done a better satin finish without buying a can specifically made to be a satin finish.

This is one I'm lost on. Do I just add more?

I do not know what you are asking....Satin is not mat or gloss...it is in between the both....

Ohhh...I get it...took me a while...
If you are using a gloss, you need more if it looks like satin. The first few layers will soak in to the paint. let that flash and come in heavier with the clear

If you're still using the enamel Clear you will need to scuff sand before adding more once its past the recoat window. 6-800 grit should be fine.