Picked up an "as new" Aerograph Super93

DaveG

Airbush Analyst
was advertised as "never used", and I think I believe it. Super clean brush, and case. Two extra head sets, and needles. The needle box has never been opened. I went through the brush, and found the trigger to be much, much firmer than I like, so replaced the air valve, and needle springs, and loosened the packing just a little (was very tight). Aside from being little tall for my taste, the trigger action is very, very nice now. I've only played with the pre-installed head and needle, and am very pleased with the performance and atomization of the brush - tested with E'tac straight from the bottle.

super93 1.jpg super93 2.jpg
 
was advertised as "never used", and I think I believe it. Super clean brush, and case. Two extra head sets, and needles. The needle box has never been opened. I went through the brush, and found the trigger to be much, much firmer than I like, so replaced the air valve, and needle springs, and loosened the packing just a little (was very tight). Aside from being little tall for my taste, the trigger action is very, very nice now. I've only played with the pre-installed head and needle, and am very pleased with the performance and atomization of the brush - tested with E'tac straight from the bottle.

View attachment 51974 View attachment 51975

I'm glad I could help push you past the tipping point and pull the trigger on it. My Super 63 is also super sweet but that needle tension is off the charts! Makes my Binks Raven 2 look positivly gentile even..
Regards,
Chris the cabbie
 
Looks good and seems like a lucky find. When adjusting needle packing, I guess that tiny adjustments are the way to go?
 
Looks good and seems like a lucky find. When adjusting needle packing, I guess that tiny adjustments are the way to go?
In many brushes, if you do not intend to work with solvent based paints, you can get a much better feel out of the brush by using a rubber o-ring vs. a teflon bushing for the needle packing. This one is fitted with teflon. The material is fairly easy to crush if overzealous tightening it. Unlike some materials, Teflon will not spring back to shape... this can make the needle quite stiff to pull back. When adjusting the needle packing, if you think about turning the screw like a clock face I usually don't go more than a few minutes at a time, and check "feel". You want to feel just a little resistance, but not have it feel tight.

I have since taken the teflon bushing out of this brush, reamed it back out, and then reinstalled it prior to adjusting it. Much better trigger feel now.
 
In many brushes, if you do not intend to work with solvent based paints, you can get a much better feel out of the brush by using a rubber o-ring vs. a teflon bushing for the needle packing. This one is fitted with teflon. The material is fairly easy to crush if overzealous tightening it. Unlike some materials, Teflon will not spring back to shape... this can make the needle quite stiff to pull back. When adjusting the needle packing, if you think about turning the screw like a clock face I usually don't go more than a few minutes at a time, and check "feel". You want to feel just a little resistance, but not have it feel tight.

I have since taken the teflon bushing out of this brush, reamed it back out, and then reinstalled it prior to adjusting it. Much better trigger feel now.
Thanks Dave. Appreciate the info as always.


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Yes very nice find, i believe they are a 0.10 setup so extremely fine. The standard Super63 is a 0.12 and sprays a lovely fine line, these are even finer.

Lee
 
Small test drive with the Super93. Very nice handling brush! This is an 8.5"x11" smooth canvas sheet (made for fine art printing). Payne's Gray underpainting, with colored layers built on top - work in progress.
26815394_1385616378210613_4411134821319384844_n.jpg
 
Awesome work @DaveG , quick questions, do u use loose stencils for the sharp edges in the leaves? Like the yellow veins, or you do it all free hand with an awesome AB control?


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Awesome work @DaveG , quick questions, do u use loose stencils for the sharp edges in the leaves? Like the yellow veins, or you do it all free hand with an awesome AB control?


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I used a cut paper stencil to keep the outline of the leaves sharp, and used hand help shields to help establish the contours within the leaf itself. I have not worked on this canvas surface before, but found lifting color to be very difficult other than erasing for soft highlights, so I wound up coming back in with white (all freehand) to add the detail, like veins and highlights, and then doing transparent layers over them - on the larger leaf. The smaller one was painted just about yellow first, then shaded using transparent greens and blues to darken. I used a hand held shield (the "pharaoh", if you know what I mean) to help shape the color, then just free handed the layers to darken.
 
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Small test drive with the Super93. Very nice handling brush! This is an 8.5"x11" smooth canvas sheet (made for fine art printing). Payne's Gray underpainting, with colored layers built on top - work in progress.
26815394_1385616378210613_4411134821319384844_n.jpg
This is really awesome!!

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