Overdue question

Wicked detail are not transparent. I find more transparency on the regular wicked colors actually

Createx Wicked , Wicked Detail and Illustration are all transparent, just a difference in pigment size.
use transparent base and you get very good transparency. Reduce as needed.

People forget that straight out of the bottle rarely happens, its normally reduced / overreduced and that is part of the beauty of the product,
its a great base, add whatever additives you need to get the result you need.

The Candy 2.0 is also great with transparent base. you dont always need to use the 4030
 
well if we are technically White opague and black opague are not transparent :D And then we have semi opagues which are less transparent then transperent ones lollollol So, do we have even more transparent then transparent ones? :D
 
yep, I was just checking them out on createx page. So what is the real difference between wicked and autoair?
I am not googling and since JackE post I am going to change my method of posting as a point of MY perspective.

TO ME the auto-air colors stick better and also have more tip dry (yeah that's about it I only use them for transparent colors)
TO ME the wicked detail is strictly that as they cover much especially when compared to the regular colors of wicked, I had bought a bottle of wicked apple green and was disappointed because the coverage wasn't as great as any of my wicked detail paints hence why I say they are not transparent. To quote myself "I find that I get more transparency from the regular wicked colors over the wicked detail".
 
re-reading everything I notice that I am a creature of feel , I leave out all the science and literally just act on what I have on hand and make it happen . . . maybe why my art is the way it is . . . . whatevs, I like my art! Shame no one else does.
 
The 'Opaque' range wasnt mentioned im my post...... there was a statement about one range being more transparent than the other, i was merely clearing up some common misconceptions regarding Createx.

as for Auto - Air vs Createx, the Autoair is more for products that will be outside EG: things like helmets / vehicles. Used as a full colour coverage or with artwork on the surface, but it cant be manipulated like the createx so if you're not into useing erasers etc to acheive a result then there is no reason you cant use the AutoAir.
 
re-reading everything I notice that I am a creature of feel , I leave out all the science and literally just act on what I have on hand and make it happen . . . maybe why my art is the way it is . . . . whatevs, I like my art! Shame no one else does.

Everything is subjective, what works for me maybe wont work for you, there is not a one product for all, we all tweak what we have to do what we need.
 
The Candy 2.0 is also great with transparent base. you dont always need to use the 4030

That may be dependent on the "canvas". I find that if I don't use 4030 with the Candy2O on Aluminum that the nature of 4030 (adhesion promoter) really is missed. That said, what I do is pretty specific, and I also can't live without the 4012.

@Samantha: have you used the Wicked Pearl Black before on metal? (if i recall you work on metal. I might be wrong).
 
I am not googling and since JackE post I am going to change my method of posting as a point of MY perspective.

TO ME the auto-air colors stick better and also have more tip dry (yeah that's about it I only use them for transparent colors)
TO ME the wicked detail is strictly that as they cover much especially when compared to the regular colors of wicked, I had bought a bottle of wicked apple green and was disappointed because the coverage wasn't as great as any of my wicked detail paints hence why I say they are not transparent. To quote myself "I find that I get more transparency from the regular wicked colors over the wicked detail".
Ok, lets elaborate this a little :D Did you use the same color just other series of colors? For example the same green only one time was detail, second time was wicked? I tried(have 2 bottles) of 4030. I loved how paint was spraying but when I was checking what is inside I went to wikipedia to check ingredients and there were no statment that that stuff is not harm full. I am still not sure about it. It has some side product of some polymer or something. I forgot what exactly was inside... Waiting for someone who has knowledge about that stuff, to get some good information.
 
re-reading everything I notice that I am a creature of feel , I leave out all the science and literally just act on what I have on hand and make it happen . . . maybe why my art is the way it is . . . . whatevs, I like my art! Shame no one else does.

The only way I "don't like" your art, is purely envy/jealousy. :) I love the armor work you did on one of your gallery pieces.
 
That may be dependent on the "canvas". I find that if I don't use 4030 with the Candy2O on Aluminum that the nature of 4030 (adhesion promoter) really is missed. That said, what I do is pretty specific, and I also can't live without the 4012.

@Samantha: have you used the Wicked Pearl Black before on metal? (if i recall you work on metal. I might be wrong).
maybe not that in particular but I have used wickeds on metal. aluminum is a completely different animal I believe and no I have not sprayed aluminum ever.

Yes I have the pearl set from wicked and have used them :) only through my paasche and as a background.

TY for compliments (really didn't have to I wasn't looking for any) :)
 
maybe not that in particular but I have used wickeds on metal. aluminum is a completely different animal I believe and no I have not sprayed aluminum ever.

Yes I have the pearl set from wicked and have used them :) only through my paasche and as a background.

TY for compliments (really didn't have to I wasn't looking for any) :)

:)

Regarding aluminum: I think it has some nice advantages. First, it's lighter. I use 1/16" or, preferably, 1/8" thick sheet, but this has to do primarily with the fact that I grind it up first. Depending on what I do, even the 1/16" sheet will lean towards warping due to the heat generated by the grinder. This is simply a natural reaction to the heat being applied in one area. While it's not intense heat, it's enough that the metal expands/contracts just enough to make a small curve. 0.0125" thick sheet warps like a record in the sun (it also flies really well if not secured and you apply a grinding disc that is going 11,000rpm). In the end though, a 3' x 2' sheet of aluminum that is 1/8" thick is going to weigh a bit less than steel of the same size.
Second, Aluminum doesn't have the corrosion issues that other metals do. Contrary to common belief, Aluminum *does* have oxidation issues. Oxygen interacts with the aluminum and results in Aluminum Oxide, however, unlike the oxidation of iron/steel, this actually winds up forming a sort of skin on the Aluminum, which then blocks out oxygen, thus preventing further oxidation of the metal. It's not as important if you just paint on the metal, but for what I do, this layer is something I have to strip off of each piece I'm working on before I put the grinder to it. I usually grind metal then hit it with either 4004 or the Bleed Check, just to get a layer between the oxygen and bare aluminum in case I want to grind several pieces and then call it a night.

I had a point here somewhere, but.. something something "you should try Aluminum" is pretty much the destination I was headed towards. :)

I'm sure there are some people here who have worked with painting cars that might be able to throw in some details as to why steel might be preferable to Aluminum, but for me so far, since all I do is wall art, it's definitely the surface of choice.
 
Love your detailed explanation. I only use 'metal' like 4140 is because it is easy for me to obtain and is cheap (I get in raw form) annnd it's nothing to last as I dont clear often... hopefully that will change soon.
 
:)

Regarding aluminum: I think it has some nice advantages. First, it's lighter. I use 1/16" or, preferably, 1/8" thick sheet, but this has to do primarily with the fact that I grind it up first. Depending on what I do, even the 1/16" sheet will lean towards warping due to the heat generated by the grinder. This is simply a natural reaction to the heat being applied in one area. While it's not intense heat, it's enough that the metal expands/contracts just enough to make a small curve. 0.0125" thick sheet warps like a record in the sun (it also flies really well if not secured and you apply a grinding disc that is going 11,000rpm). In the end though, a 3' x 2' sheet of aluminum that is 1/8" thick is going to weigh a bit less than steel of the same size.
Second, Aluminum doesn't have the corrosion issues that other metals do. Contrary to common belief, Aluminum *does* have oxidation issues. Oxygen interacts with the aluminum and results in Aluminum Oxide, however, unlike the oxidation of iron/steel, this actually winds up forming a sort of skin on the Aluminum, which then blocks out oxygen, thus preventing further oxidation of the metal. It's not as important if you just paint on the metal, but for what I do, this layer is something I have to strip off of each piece I'm working on before I put the grinder to it. I usually grind metal then hit it with either 4004 or the Bleed Check, just to get a layer between the oxygen and bare aluminum in case I want to grind several pieces and then call it a night.

I had a point here somewhere, but.. something something "you should try Aluminum" is pretty much the destination I was headed towards. :)

I'm sure there are some people here who have worked with painting cars that might be able to throw in some details as to why steel might be preferable to Aluminum, but for me so far, since all I do is wall art, it's definitely the surface of choice.
great info neural
 
Another option might be E'Tac transparent paints heavily reduced with the AG2050 which produces a very durable surface and is good for locking down automotive work and reduces tac. While not a true candy it can work depending on how transparent you want it.

True candies are coloured with dies rather than pigment (like adding food colour instead of a fine powder) and require UV stabilisers etc. If you want a true candy it would be hard to go past House of Color though you will need some extra processes and safety gear.

If it was not for exterior work you might be able to try some food colouring or other dies in a clear or reducer base and make your own?
 
Thank you. I'm not looking to drop Createx completely, just looking for options. :)

Well theyre an option if
re-reading everything I notice that I am a creature of feel , I leave out all the science and literally just act on what I have on hand and make it happen . . . maybe why my art is the way it is . . . . whatevs, I like my art! Shame no one else does.

I don't know how someone wouldn't like your work, its perfectly good and I happen to like it. The armour pic is great.

Lee
 
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