Acrylic Lacquer

Draxden

Double Actioner
Hi guys! I'm new here, and I'm also new to airbrushing! (Sorry if I was supposed to post in a "new members" thread)

I just wanted to pick your brains to try to find some answers to a question I have. I've been panting controllers and nerf guns for a while now, however I've never airbrushed one until last night. I was wanting a shorter turn around for the clear coat than the one I currently have. (7 days fully cure, before I can apply additional coats after 1 hour.) I need to clear coat the shells of the controller, then apply decals, and clear over top of those. I recently purchased an auto acrylic laquer by rustoleum. I've never used it before, and I'm worried it will have an adverse reaction to my paint. I use a rustoleum black primer, and wicked colors.

Does any one have an experience using this product before? On top of wicked colors, or waterslide decals? If so any information would be appreciated!
 
I haven't used the Rusto before, but I have used Pro Form's1k acrylic laquer clear coat from a can though. Your airbrushed artwork will be fine ( Wicked is good that way), but to be on the safe side I would spray a bit of the clear on your vinyl stickers first on a test panel. As for curing... I would wait the seven days, but you might be able the apply the vinyl after the clear flashes off the first coat. But then again I would do a test panel for that as well. Better to be safe.
Take care and hopefully this helps out.
 
I don't think it would do a whole lot to vinyl stickers, but I use waterslide decals. Being extremely thin I'm concerned of it melting during the curing process. I've read a lot of good things about wicked, and how good the adhesion is, and I know that you're not supposed to put lacquer over enamel and everything. But it's labeled "acrylic lacquer" I wasn't sure if that helps with working with other paint bases or not. I'm not really sure what it would do to the primer I used, since there is some bare primer. I may just need to do the test panels and try it out.
 
I don't think it would do a whole lot to vinyl stickers, but I use waterslide decals. Being extremely thin I'm concerned of it melting during the curing process. I've read a lot of good things about wicked, and how good the adhesion is, and I know that you're not supposed to put lacquer over enamel and everything. But it's labeled "acrylic lacquer" I wasn't sure if that helps with working with other paint bases or not. I'm not really sure what it would do to the primer I used, since there is some bare primer. I may just need to do the test panels and try it out.
If you got a lot of the waterside decals and don't mind sacrificing one for the good of the group ;) , I would give it a go on a test panel ( the only way to be sure).
As for Wicked paint just don't lay it on too thick, it will develop a "skin" and lose its adhesion ( I had this issue with the Carnage goalie mask). It's best to use the Autobourne when using Wicked paint. Autobourne is a primer/ sealer and can be cleared with the Autobourne still showing. I would suggest looking into it. Createx has tech sheets for Autobourne on their web site as well.
 
Ok, I've not heard of that before. Since it's going to be an xbox controller, I'm normally using automotive clear coats for the durability. I'm just mostly trying to cut down on the cure time.
 
Autobourne is a decent product. Createx has an assortment of different colours of Autobourne. So you can colour match with the paint you're using. Which effectively saves you paint. It also helps when painting with pearl paints and Autobourne can be sanded as well. There's all kinds of reasons to use it, especially when painting on hard surfaces such as an x box controller.
As for the decreasing the clear coat cure time. Going the way of an acrylic lacquer in can I would think would be the quickest. But enduring the 7 days would be the route to take. Especially if you cut and polish the clear coat. But with that being said some clears can be baked. I have never done it and I wouldn't suggest doing it without talking to someone who has. Maybe someone will reply to the thread who has done this. Hopefully this helps out a little.
When you are done the controllers you should post some pics. I wouldn't mind seeing the final product.
 
The controller looks mint :)
Just remember if you decide to check into "baking" your clear coat.
1) that the brand of clear coat can be baked.
2) that there are no health hazards that are associated with it being baked. IE gases given off, odour
3) if special equipment is mandatory for this process. IE oven, exhaust etc.
In a nutshell it's better to be informed and spray safe. Try asking the manufacturer and ask someone with experience about "baking" clear coat before attempting.
Good luck and I'll be looking forward to your future work.
Take care
 
I use Rustoleum 2x gloss all the time for plastics....I did a couple of Xbox 360 controllers for my nephews and it holds up really well. Do a dust coat and a mid coat and then a little heavier. 10 mins between coats, and can be re-coated up to 24 hours....And the total cure time is 7 days. Then it is really hard.
I just did a lot of x-mas balls and used it on them. It loves plastics...
IMG_1395.JPG IMG-20141211-02658.jpg IMG-20141209-02635.jpg
Cheers
 
I use the Rusto 2x on stuff too.
Softball helmets, vinyl records and just about everything that I do not put a real clear on. Except fine art, I use a real varnish for that. Just so I can say everything is archival.
 
I use the Rustoleum laquor on my demo panels. Gets the job done. (Ive never tried wet sanding it however). Always seemed to hold up for me
 
Thanks guys! I actually ended up going with a acrylic enamel, for automotive that worked amazingly. There was no yellowing, and it buffed out very nicely. Plus I don't have to wait 7 days to apply anymore coats after the first hour!
 
Nice... It good to hear everything worked out for the best.
Generally when doing clear coat, the second coat can be applied roughly 20 mins after the first has flashed off.
 
I normally do two light coats and a medium/heavy coat. After that I can apply the decals, but I had to wait 7 days for the first few coats to fully cure before I could clear over the decals...now it's just 2 days!
 
Back
Top