ANOTHER PAINT QUESTION

[Malky]

Have you used Etac? or is there some reason thats not a good option?
Only reason I've shied away from it is because when i first looked at them their additive system uses wierd names and the descriptions of what each does overlap and read in a very confusing manner.

Yeah it doesnt seem like they push com-art much. My thing with it is that it seems kind of watercolor-ish to me...but it may be in my head because I know that was my first impression when looking at the little color squares printed on the package i bought....which seemed faded. It also seems to bead up at odd times like maybe its very sensitive to fingerprints on less porous surfaces or something.

The Com-Art colours are far more vibrant than what's printed on the packaging, the packaging seems badly printed.

I've tried e'tac but didn't like it at all, it rolled up when I tried to erase it, some might say that's down to a bad bottle but I had it with several colours, I remember Mitch thing it and Geraldo found it a bit sticky.

I plan to stick to the paints and other materials that gave me the most joy, it was messing around with e'tac and trying other stuff that caused me to give up several times, so if I want to keep airbrushing I've got go with what I know works for me, not just paint but brush and substrates too, other than Com-Art if I can find it I have no intention of risking throwing in the towel again by moving to yet another paint.

I can't use anything createx because even just what hangs in the air after I take off my mask would kill me, I have always worked in my house, might be different if I had a work place outside of the house, but no chance of that ever happening.

 

[Franc Kaiser]

Some called it glazing some called it a wash , It is where the color is so fate is only enhances what is underneath . I am not sure how old you are but the term White wash fence comes to mind , They would use super watered down paint so the natural wood grain would show through the white color.
When I first tried my hand at a portrait I was instructed to use a wash of red over the darkest areas and yellow over the lightest so it would give the flesh tone I was using at the time a more natural feel.

This triggers a lot of ideas. When you paint with oil, you have a whole school on glazing, which, if done properly, gets you closer to the practice of the old masters, which first paint a b/w underpainting and then add on highly thinned colors with lots of medium (= the glaze), layer by layer, The arduous thing about oil glazing however is the fact that the previous layer has to dry first, which could take days or months to do. With airbrush you can do it in minutes - I love it!

 

[RichardH]

The Com-Art colours are far more vibrant than what's printed on the packaging, the packaging seems badly printed.

I've tried e'tac but didn't like it at all, it rolled up when I tried to erase it, some might say that's down to a bad bottle but I had it with several colours, I remember Mitch thing it and Geraldo found it a bit sticky.

I plan to stick to the paints and other materials that gave me the most joy, it was messing around with e'tac and trying other stuff that caused me to give up several times, so if I want to keep airbrushing I've got go with what I know works for me, not just paint but brush and substrates too, other than Com-Art if I can find it I have no intention of risking throwing in the towel again by moving to yet another paint.

I can't use anything createx because even just what hangs in the air after I take off my mask would kill me, I have always worked in my house, might be different if I had a work place outside of the house, but no chance of that ever happening.

I have Golden, E'tac, Schmincke and Createx Ill. and I like all of them for a purpose of what I am painting. I was going to order some E'tac to replace a couple of near empty bottles and when it came to shipping, they were adding $13.00 for shipping. That was just a little less than the total amount for the paint. I didn't order it because of the shipping. Their business is only 3 states from me. I won't pay it for just a couple of bottles. I like Golden High Flow and Fluid colors. Sprays good, when mixed right, even through a .15 H+S Infinity. But with Golden, it takes me forever to clean the brushes. It sticks very tough to the inside and I think I spend more time cleaning than painting.LOL
I like Schmincke aero but it is also very expensive here in the USA. Only place I have found that stocks it is Blick. So I guess I'll just stick to Createx Ill. . It goes on good, erases good with the paper I use and clean as a whistle in the brush after cleaning after a while of painting. Also I can get it fast when shipped and can get it from a 30 minute drive from home if needed fast.
Everyone has their preferences and what works for them on available supply and how they paint.
I've thought about offering what I don't use to someone but then I start thinking, " wouldn't that reference picture look good with that paint "
One thing I thought was strange with Golden Fluids Paynes Gray. It is about as blue as you can get blue to look. It has no reference to Gray at all. I've started adding a little red and yellow to the bottle each time I use it to get it a cool gray color. Almost there but not quite yet.

Richard

 

[markjthomson]

Hmmmm...not by what I’m reading

High Flow Medium — Golden's thinnest acrylic medium, High Flow Medium (formerly Transparent Extender) thins and extends acrylic colors. Brush or spray this medium to extend High Flow Acrylics or to lower the viscosity and increase the flow and leveling of acrylic paints and mediums.

OK so it sounds like they have changed the names.

From the website

"AIRBRUSH TRANSPARENT EXTENDER
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
GOLDEN High Flow Medium (formerly Airbrush Transparent Extender) is a 100% acrylic binder system that is designed to modify GOLDEN Airbrush Colors and High Flow Acrylics for increased transparency and film hardness. Engineered to meet the highest standards of professional airbrush illustrators, High Flow Medium possesses excellent spraying properties and is formulated to minimize tip build-up, clogging and surface defects."

and

"AIRBRUSH MEDIUM
GOLDEN Airbrush Medium blends easily with other GOLDEN acrylics to yield a paint mixture with the proper viscosity for airbrushing. Airbrush Medium also effectively decreases clogging and tip-buildup during spraying, eliminating the largest drawback to airbrushing with acrylics."

So there is high flow medium and airbrush medium.

 

[Malky]

OK so it sounds like they have changed the names.

From the website

"AIRBRUSH TRANSPARENT EXTENDER
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
GOLDEN High Flow Medium (formerly Airbrush Transparent Extender) is a 100% acrylic binder system that is designed to modify GOLDEN Airbrush Colors and High Flow Acrylics for increased transparency and film hardness. Engineered to meet the highest standards of professional airbrush illustrators, High Flow Medium possesses excellent spraying properties and is formulated to minimize tip build-up, clogging and surface defects."

and

"AIRBRUSH MEDIUM
GOLDEN Airbrush Medium blends easily with other GOLDEN acrylics to yield a paint mixture with the proper viscosity for airbrushing. Airbrush Medium also effectively decreases clogging and tip-buildup during spraying, eliminating the largest drawback to airbrushing with acrylics."

So there is high flow medium and airbrush medium.

I'm still using and will continue to use the "airbrush medium" which works fine with either fluid or high flow acrylics despite them generally not recommending it's use for high flow, although they say other GOLDEN acrylics any acrylic including tube acrylics with no solvents work equally as well with it, their not recommending it's use with high flow is merely a disclaimer, many of the paints I used in my job recommended their own special thinners but simple turpentine or white spirit was as good for them all.

 

[Zackod]

We are now called a "lithographic technician"
What presses do you run? I was a press demonstrator for Komori presses before my illness/injury. Over 30 years of heaving paper did me in. I do miss the smell of ink.

I run specialized dry off set machines that print on aluminium wine closures. I have also been commissioning a pad printer that prints on the top of the caps. Our other machines do spray paint, lacquer, screen and emboss. Pretty good work.im just over it. Been there almost 12 years. I ran a komori at tafesa for mh apprenticeship. Donf know model name/number. Great old manual impression machine.

 

[Franc Kaiser]

I got a follow-on question re. the Golden Airbrush Transparent Extender (or whatever the name is, they really don't make it easy for people): Is anybody using it in its pure form (without adding any color) to do a varnish at the end of a painting session? I observe it has a glossy plastics-like quality to it (after all, it's a clear polymer), and was thinking about just lightly spraying a finished painting with it. What do you think, does this make sense?

 

[Malky]

I got a follow-on question re. the Golden Airbrush Transparent Extender (or whatever the name is, they really don't make it easy for people): Is anybody using it in its pure form (without adding any color) to do a varnish at the end of a painting session? I observe it has a glossy plastics-like quality to it (after all, it's a clear polymer), and was thinking about just lightly spraying a finished painting with it. What do you think, does this make sense?

I know that the other called airbrush medium they advise it shouldn't be used on it's on as a finish, but the transparent extender is more or less just paint without the colour, it can be erased and scratched just as the paint can so I would suggest it shouldn't be used as a finish either.

If your work is going to be framed and behind glass you shoukd need to clear it, I've never cleared any if my work, clearing is probably only really necessary for automotive work and anything being kept outdoors and exposed to the elements, obviously there are some projects where the clearing is what makes them pop.

 

[Franc Kaiser]

I know that the other called airbrush medium they advise it shouldn't be used on it's on as a finish, but the transparent extender is more or less just paint without the colour, it can be erased and scratched just as the paint can so I would suggest it shouldn't be used as a finish either.

If your work is going to be framed and behind glass you shoukd need to clear it, I've never cleared any if my work, clearing is probably only really necessary for automotive work and anything being kept outdoors and exposed to the elements, obviously there are some projects where the clearing is what makes them pop.

Got it, thanks Malky!

 

[beginner-James]

clearing is that to put a varnish over the painting to stop it sticking to the glass??????

 

[Malky]

clearing is that to put a varnish over the painting to stop it sticking to the glass??????

It won't stick to the glass if you clear it or not, as long as it's dry before being framed, you would clear it or varnish it to protect it if it isn't going to be behind glass.

 

[beginner-James]

but what is clearing is it allowing the paint to harden and dry

 

[AndreZA]

I got a follow-on question re. the Golden Airbrush Transparent Extender (or whatever the name is, they really don't make it easy for people): Is anybody using it in its pure form (without adding any color) to do a varnish at the end of a painting session? I observe it has a glossy plastics-like quality to it (after all, it's a clear polymer), and was thinking about just lightly spraying a finished painting with it. What do you think, does this make sense?

I use Schmincke transparent medium over my paintings at the end. So I guess it is the same. It just evens out all the gloss and matt parts.

 

[Malky]

but what is clearing is it allowing the paint to harden and dry

Clearing is similar to varnishing, it just protects your work and gives an even finish all over.

 

[beginner-James]

Clearing is similar to varnishing, it just protects your work and gives an even finish all over.

Thank you malky

 

[beginner-James]

Malky I have found a badger stockist near me 15 mile away
I would like to know is the paint any good and what is needle juice. I'm actually going over their today my son is taking me if I take him out for dinner.

I do seam to get a lot of tip dry with the golden (0.2 Mr Hobby 289)????
also what s the 20/20 like because I'm looking at the or the H&S infinity/evolution as I've read some where not only are they good Air brushes it has a easy cleaning system??
I'm getting ready for paintpal today

Beginner-James

 

[Malky]

Malky I have found a badger stockist near me 15 mile away
I would like to know is the paint any good and what is needle juice. I'm actually going over their today my son is taking me if I take him out for dinner.

I do seam to get a lot of tip dry with the golden (0.2 Mr Hobby 289)????
also what s the 20/20 like because I'm looking at the or the H&S infinity/evolution as I've read some where not only are they good Air brushes it has a easy cleaning system??
I'm getting ready for paintpal today

Beginner-James

I'm afraid I can be of no help to you as far as badger brushes and paints go, I've never owned either, I'm also clueless as what the needle juice is but it sound to me like a specially formulated oil to clean your needle with to prevent tip dry.

I'm using Golden high flow in an Iwata HP-B which I'm happy to say is performing lije new now after some problems, I have a squeeze dropper bottle filled with plain water and added 5% glycerine, this mix acts like a retarder and tip dry is very minimal, I worked all day on my paint pal yesterday with no problems whatsoever, the only thing I changed from when I was having problems was I stopped using my Golden airbrush medium, instead I'm using one drop of paint added to 3 drops of my water/glycerine mix and that is working fine for me, if you want to try that you can find glycerine at any decent chemist shop although Boots don't sell it in pure form, those buggers offered me cough medicine

I had an H&S evolution silver line before I got my first Iwata and had nothing but problems with it, the trigger was finicky and I coukdnt get paint out of it without pulling all the way back, it also gave frequent unwanted blasts, but other folks are having much success with them, they are indeed easy to clean but in my experience they would have to be.

 

[beginner-James]

what is the brand/make of glycerine you use please as I have a really fine piece of art work planed for pp

 

[Malky]

what is the brand/make of glycerine you use please as I have a really fine piece of art work planed for pp

The brand doesn't matter, it is exactly the same no matter what the brand is, mine is "Care+" from the pharmacy, but yiu can also find it in bekers supply areas in super markets because its also used in baking, there is a goid chance your wife will have some in the kitchen, but be sure to ask her permission before taking it, if she doesnt have shell certainly know where to find it.

 

[beginner-James]

I would like to try Badger paint too but that is not going to happen without a hefty shipping bill as well as the thieving bastard post office here taking their cut, I would end up paying 3 times its worth and I'm not about to do that, if I cant get it in the UK or closest by Europe I won't get it at all, I can get all the golden I want local which is why I have it now but I would prefer Com-Art if I can find larger bottles than the silly little sets they have on E bay and Amazon, I've always had good results with Com-Art, I found it very very easy to work with, it's just not that easy to find, it amazes me that vendors who stock all Iwata airbrushes and parts don't stock Com-Art.

Malky here you go mate Badger paint in the uk good price as well https://barwellbodyworks-shop.com/17-paints

Beginner-James