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Anyone use Save Tee Fixative

Discussion in 'General Airbrush Discussion' started by Leakyvalve, Feb 19, 2017.


  1. Leakyvalve

    Leakyvalve Young Tutorling

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    OK, your post above actually released a major brain fart I suffered during this experiment. When I did my testing, it was with my RG-6 and not the LPH-80 that destroyed my artwork.

    You might be able to spray that stuff with the LPH, but I can't. But what I did re-discover was that the RG-6 is what allowed me to maintain control and not let the 4004 orange peel on me. I have no idea why I completely forgot that.

    I am able to spray AG-2050 through my LPH-80 and it lays down pretty good But it is way more expensive than the 4004.
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  2. Ricky Spanish

    Ricky Spanish Needle-chuck Ninja

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    Nice... I'm glad you found a solution. I'm still working on the reduction for The HVLP 1.4mm @ 25-30 psi. But I find whatever works for individual is best in the end. I've practiced on foam board and used the above method and got less then desirable results when cleared with 1k.. The buckling was expected on the foam board, but not the bleeding once it gassed off after 5 mins lol
  3. Leakyvalve

    Leakyvalve Young Tutorling

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    If you hadn't mentioned using the .5mm tip, I wonder if I would have ever remembered. Can water based paint fumes cause alzheimer's?
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  4. Ricky Spanish

    Ricky Spanish Needle-chuck Ninja

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    Something tells me you would have remembered it :)
    Honestly... I can't remember about paint causing Alzheimer's ;)

    On a serious note... I know it's not good for you in large amounts in aerosol form.

    Not so Fun Fact:
    The FDA approves the use of 2-Butoxy Ethanol ( active ingredient in high performance reducer) for the "assistance of peeling fruit"...
  5. Squishy

    Squishy Queen Clown Slayer Mod

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    Thanks so much Ricky. I very rarely use a heat gun, but good old England sometimes has those damp days after its rained forever and it seems like you need gills for the amount of water in the air you are breathing in and if I'm short of time its a kind of take the risk situation, I haven't had any issues (so far). I didn't want to use it on the candy if I didn't have to, but wasn't sure if it was something that the paint needed. I'm only experimenting with the candy right now, but I've come back to it the next day and it hasn't dried. I've only used it through an AB so far, and have been using 4030 as recommended by createx (10% I think?? Can't remember, I have it written down in my shed lol, got a memory like a seive) Any way I think it was the weather that affected it, it dried eventually. I was using it as an intercoat too, but now see that isn't recommended, though with the effects I have tried I wanted a little bleeding for overlapping fades. I used a clearcoat too and that worked well, but transbase is going to be much less hassle so I will give that a try, and see which I prefer, not just in application but in end result. I think clear as an intercoat might give it more depth as I mentioned before - but will have to compare as its only a guess.

    I will def try your reduction ratio, thank you. It sounds more robust than what I have tried. It may well be that I have been reducing hvlp ratios in an airbrush, will have to read the specs again, although I did study it pretty hard. My lonely brain cell isn't too clever though lol.

    I think with the trans base numbers 4004 is Auto Air and 0200 is Wicked? or Vice Versa. I'm 99.9% sure it is the same thing though just as 4012, and W500 are, just numbered differently to go with the different lines.

    I appreciate your help. And am in the same boat. I don't know anyone else in real life who airbrushes, and certainly not anyone who will listen to me bang on about it. Your friends last a whole 2 mins before they glaze over? How do you get them to last that long? lol. Plus I usually get "really?" looks when people find out I'm into ABing anyway, not sure what that's all about. Maybe I look to clueless with only having one brain cell and all lol lol Anyway it doesn't make for good conversation, plus they have no clue what I'm droning on about anyway.
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  6. Ricky Spanish

    Ricky Spanish Needle-chuck Ninja

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    No worries I'm glad I could help :)
    I have tried using a heat gun before on the "Carnage" goalie mask i did awhile back. But I got negative results. I was careful not to heat it up too much and I still got a "skin" on the top layer. This was also because of a couple other factors as well. I have also watched a couple of videos where they warn of this. But with that being said people can still do this technique with positive results. It's more of a personnel preference ;)
    A good way to keep track of the environmental conditions in your work area is a digital hygrometer/thermometer. This device will tell you exactly what the humidity and temperature in your work area is at. This way after awhile you can just take a look at the meter. It'll give you a better idea of what reduction you should be using. They can be fairly cheap or expensive and can be purchased at hardware stores, super stores and grow centres. I do a lot of work in a basement which can be prone to moisture. So I know where you're coming from ;). I do my best to control it with a dehumidifier.
    I find what works for me with the candy is very light coats. I make 2 overlapping passes and I consider that 1 coat. Then I wait for it to cure by using my ab's airflow and a little bit of time. Full saturation of candy should be a achieved in 6-8 coats this way. Sometimes less is better ;). Plus hamming down on the paint can trap moisture in the underlying layers creating a top "skin".
    I've used the reduction rate of 10% with the balancing clear and it's great as well. It's more "intense" and is great for mid/top coats. I primarily use the 30% when I use the candy as a transparent paint unstead of a mid/top coat. Like I did in the "Candied Skulls" welding mask I did.
    No worries... If we put our 2 brain cells together we will get better results for both of us ;)
    I believe your right with the vendor stock numbers... And that example with the reducers came to mind immediately :)
    It's all good I'm glad I could give you a little direction. Plus if you ever have a question, suggestion or an idea. Drop me a PM... I'm generally around most of the time :). Plus I remember you coming to my aid awhile back when I had issues with the Black Candy :).
    I may have over exaggerated on the 2 minutes ;) The trick is when they're looking at your piece... Just start talking until they glaze over ;)
    Don't worry I get looks too... Like...you're into art? I'm a little rough around the edges :). It's like there's an airbrushing specific type of person out there that I haven't heard of lol.
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  7. Squishy

    Squishy Queen Clown Slayer Mod

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    I like the idea of the thermometer thingy ma bob. Wicked I know inside out, and can get great results with it whatever the conditions, and I know where I am with regular candies/clears etc. But the candy20 is a bit of a different beast, and the metre will help I think.

    I just need to be more patient I think, and engage the lonely brain cell lol I am a bit of a slow learner, and like to find out all the what not to do's and mistakes through tests and experiments, so that it all sinks in properly.

    I really appreciate your help :) When I eventually get round to posting something with the candy20, tag yourself and take some credit :D :D :D I think this is really going to help me get to grips with it.
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  8. Ricky Spanish

    Ricky Spanish Needle-chuck Ninja

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    The meter just makes you more aware of the your painting conditions and how much it actually affects the paint flow, tip dry and curing time :)
    I'm still learning a lot about Createx products seeing as I switched just little over a year ago. How they behave ,limits and uses. Honestly just in the past couple months I've finally started getting more comfortable and confident with their products (Wicked,Wicked Detail,Illustration and Candy 2o). A consistent way to mix paint is to use oral syringes. I use them when mixing larger amounts of paint/candy, reducer and balancing clear/trans base. They can be purchased at pharmacies for cheap. They look like a syringes minus the needles.Their increments are in millimetres and are easy to clean. I have a half dozen laying around. I use one for just reducer, one for light colours and one for dark colours. I do this to avoid cross contamination and easy clean-up.
    I'm still practicing patience a well... It's on going thing ;)
    I'm just glad I could give some help and direction :) I'll be looking forward to work with candy in the near future.
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