Hey guys! I've noticed here recently that when changing colors, and cleaning between when I try to backwash it out, that sometimes I don't even have to pull the trigger back but I'm still getting bubbles. It's slow, but somehow air is getting past the needle. Every time I've had to take the needle out, and take everything apart up front and wipe it down with a q-tip and cleaner to get it to stop. I have a Iwata airbrush (I can't remember the exact one), and this has just recently started happening. I'm not sure if I'm not cleaning it out properly, or what's going on, but like I said it's only recently started happening. I have started using more colors though, so maybe that could have something to do with it?
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- Thread starter Draxden
- Start date
Ronald art
Air-Valve Autobot!
the air goes past the nozzle not trough it , what happens is that most likely some paint specs block the needle from seating all the way back in the nozzle .
in that case a good clean is the only option but be careful with the q-tips the cotton fibers can end up in your airbrush and cause the same problem
in that case a good clean is the only option but be careful with the q-tips the cotton fibers can end up in your airbrush and cause the same problem
S
Shad0w
Guest
Depends on nozzle type but with my badger self centering nozzle I actually wrapped a thin strip of teflon tape around it being careful not to go close to edge.
Then when i put the nozzle in the tape would seal up against the AB. That worked for me as i cleaned the heck out of 2 of them that had this happen here and there depending how tight I did cap/if I used wrench etc. got tired of it, and went with that solution
Then when i put the nozzle in the tape would seal up against the AB. That worked for me as i cleaned the heck out of 2 of them that had this happen here and there depending how tight I did cap/if I used wrench etc. got tired of it, and went with that solution
most parts on an airbrush should only be finger tight... overtightening with wrenches can cause thread issues down the track so use a wrench with extreme caution.
bubbles in a cup is normally a dirty nozzle as Ronald has stated. you can look at it and say I've cleaned it thoroughly but it doesn't always get everything out.
depending on what paint you are using you can soak the nozzle in the appropriate reducer/thinner and then use a long bristled artist brush to dislodge anything that is hiding in there. Createx has a product called 'restorer' which will remove any paint in the createx/auto-air range and is reusable so its quite economical.
If you are going to soak your nozzle them make sure any seals are Teflon, if they are rubber then remove them or they will be destroyed.
bubbles in a cup is normally a dirty nozzle as Ronald has stated. you can look at it and say I've cleaned it thoroughly but it doesn't always get everything out.
depending on what paint you are using you can soak the nozzle in the appropriate reducer/thinner and then use a long bristled artist brush to dislodge anything that is hiding in there. Createx has a product called 'restorer' which will remove any paint in the createx/auto-air range and is reusable so its quite economical.
If you are going to soak your nozzle them make sure any seals are Teflon, if they are rubber then remove them or they will be destroyed.
S
Shad0w
Guest
To add to what Jack saod, IF you dont have rubber seals in your AB you can also do an acetone cleaning if you don't have the restorer handy(they use acetone in the new wicked 4020 if you're worried).
Juat a few minutes with the acetone tops , do not soak entire AB, never do that I've learned from a wrecked Grex and the whole windex cleans etc people spout off. Only soak from the cup to nozzle area, better is to remove nozzle(unless you have a iwata custom) and let it soak by itself and then you can tweezer it around in the acetone to move paint. Again check your seals first.
The restorer same cup forward rule and seals check but it can soak longer.
And for the love of god dont spray these, let the acetone air dry in ventilated area and restorer dry off and then run water through it
Juat a few minutes with the acetone tops , do not soak entire AB, never do that I've learned from a wrecked Grex and the whole windex cleans etc people spout off. Only soak from the cup to nozzle area, better is to remove nozzle(unless you have a iwata custom) and let it soak by itself and then you can tweezer it around in the acetone to move paint. Again check your seals first.
The restorer same cup forward rule and seals check but it can soak longer.
And for the love of god dont spray these, let the acetone air dry in ventilated area and restorer dry off and then run water through it
Ok guys! Thanks so much for all the information, and advice. I think I figured out what my problem was! I've been just mixing the paint the cup rather then mixing it first, then pouring it in to spray. I've noticed that when I do that it sprays a lot better, and I've not relaly gotten that problem since I started doing so. However when I would jus try to let it mix in the cup on it's own, I would get whichever of the two I first put drops of in through the nozzle first. Seems to work better over all now.
