Beginner here

That is the spirit and remember we are here for you .
try just hooking it to your big compressor I am sure it has a PSI dial to adjust the pressure and help take out all the guess work on what the one that came with the kits is really doing.
I thought about it but I would have to get different fittings and maybe even different line for the airbrush. I found a bigger compressor with a regulator and a water seperator for $75 bucks I may just go ahead and get it and be done with the compressor issue
 
I thought about it but I would have to get different fittings and maybe even different line for the airbrush. I found a bigger compressor with a regulator and a water seperator for $75 bucks I may just go ahead and get it and be done with the compressor issue

Well if you are in a position to do so that is the way to go, your journey will be a happy one if you have all the right stuff:thumbsup:

And do like Herb (Mr. Micron) says and just get yourself some cheap paper to play around on, glass is way too frustrating for beginners, although you know first hand now what spidering is, in the beginning I just gave in to it and painted nothing but spiders until I found out what was causing it, lol
 
I thought about it but I would have to get different fittings and maybe even different line for the airbrush. I found a bigger compressor with a regulator and a water seperator for $75 bucks I may just go ahead and get it and be done with the compressor issue
The air line for the airbrush should have a standard 1/2 inch pipe thread as most inlet nipples do on standard compressor. Is you can post up a picture of the airline that came with the airbrush .
 
I use a big 250 litre compressor. It has a 'T' piece connector coming out of it. One Line with it's own regulator for my hubs air tools, and one line with a regulator for my airbrush. Just use regular line, and then at my workstation have an adapter to fit the airbrush hose. Works great.
 
Well, I tried the 3:1 ration and bumped it up to a 5:1 (reducer to paint) ration and still get the splatter. I moved away from the glass and trying it out on computer paper. But it just splatters the paint out. Would that control valve being able to turn the pressure down help out? I'm still using the Wicked paint.
Also, another thing I have noticed is that when I release the paint (push the action lever forward) it gobs out a bunch of paint as its shut. Is it supposed to do that?
 

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I use a big 250 litre compressor. It has a 'T' piece connector coming out of it. One Line with it's own regulator for my hubs air tools, and one line with a regulator for my airbrush. Just use regular line, and then at my workstation have an adapter to fit the airbrush hose. Works great.
Do you know what connector you got for the big compressor? I am not seeing anything that goes down that small for an airbrush line
 
:laugh:
Well, I tried the 3:1 ration and bumped it up to a 5:1 (reducer to paint) ration and still get the splatter. I moved away from the glass and trying it out on computer paper. But it just splatters the paint out. Would that control valve being able to turn the pressure down help out? I'm still using the Wicked paint.
Also, another thing I have noticed is that when I release the paint (push the action lever forward) it gobs out a bunch of paint as its shut. Is it supposed to do that?

Oh I remember these issues, it seems like yesterday.... technically about 4 years ago but I've only done a few paintings so these issues are still fresh in my memory LOL

Mr.Micron has got you headed in the right direction but I think you may have misread/misunderstood his comment of "3;1 reducer:paint and then add one drop at a time till it flows nicely... " you need to add one drop of paint at a time, not one drop of reducer :) reducer thins the paint so if you've gone from 3 reducer to 5 then your paint is now thinner than it was before. Always put the reducer in the cup first, then the paint. Backflush to mix. (pinch the nozzle between your fingers then push the trigger for air and you should see bubbles in your cup/bottle. )
On that note, if you are getting bubbles in the cup, then you have very likely have a clog in the nozzle. If you have paint hitting the paper when you release the paint flow on the trigger (push the lever forward) then you also likely have a clog.

Are you having fun yet lol

I'm a very patient person and knew that airbrushing would be a big learning curve, but as you've found out, its soooooooo frustrating trying to get all the factors dialled in properly. Once you get your head around these common issues that's when you can start having fun.

Like many members here, I started with a two cheapo brushes, they taught me heaps and because they were cheap I wasn't too worried if I broke them. if nothing else they teach you how to tear a brush down for cleaning :laugh:

Get a pressure gauge (or a new compressor with one) and an inline mac valve to fine tune pressure at the brush- it doesn't have a guage, but you adjust it like you would a hot/cold tap -- by trial and error

I started on glass, had the same experience as you with the spiders etc, but Mr.Micron is right, get that under control then every other surface is a lot easier.

we are here when you need a shoulder:thumbsup:
 
Does your hose have a real small fitting at each end?
if so you might need this adapter to fit it to you big compressor http://www.coastairbrush.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Paasche_Hose_to_1/4"_NPT_Adapter
Sorry, meant to take that picture but was trying out different ratios.
Yes it's the small fitting, think it said 1/4".
Think I am going to go that route. I noticed on my setup in my shop on my big compressor that I have an extra fitting for another hose if I ever decided to add one so I'm going to put a fitting on there and then get a 10' airbrush hose and go from there.
 
Sorry, meant to take that picture but was trying out different ratios.
Yes it's the small fitting, think it said 1/4".
Think I am going to go that route. I noticed on my setup in my shop on my big compressor that I have an extra fitting for another hose if I ever decided to add one so I'm going to put a fitting on there and then get a 10' airbrush hose and go from there.
Sounds like a plan
 
:laugh:

Oh I remember these issues, it seems like yesterday.... technically about 4 years ago but I've only done a few paintings so these issues are still fresh in my memory LOL

Mr.Micron has got you headed in the right direction but I think you may have misread/misunderstood his comment of "3;1 reducer:paint and then add one drop at a time till it flows nicely... " you need to add one drop of paint at a time, not one drop of reducer :) reducer thins the paint so if you've gone from 3 reducer to 5 then your paint is now thinner than it was before. Always put the reducer in the cup first, then the paint. Backflush to mix. (pinch the nozzle between your fingers then push the trigger for air and you should see bubbles in your cup/bottle. )
On that note, if you are getting bubbles in the cup, then you have very likely have a clog in the nozzle. If you have paint hitting the paper when you release the paint flow on the trigger (push the lever forward) then you also likely have a clog.

Are you having fun yet lol

I'm a very patient person and knew that airbrushing would be a big learning curve, but as you've found out, its soooooooo frustrating trying to get all the factors dialled in properly. Once you get your head around these common issues that's when you can start having fun.

Like many members here, I started with a two cheapo brushes, they taught me heaps and because they were cheap I wasn't too worried if I broke them. if nothing else they teach you how to tear a brush down for cleaning :laugh:

Get a pressure gauge (or a new compressor with one) and an inline mac valve to fine tune pressure at the brush- it doesn't have a guage, but you adjust it like you would a hot/cold tap -- by trial and error

I started on glass, had the same experience as you with the spiders etc, but Mr.Micron is right, get that under control then every other surface is a lot easier.

we are here when you need a shoulder:thumbsup:
Appreciate it.
Already had the whole airbrush apart trying to figure out if there was something gunked up inside. Soaked it in a urethane reducer to clean it up and put it back together. There was some caulk or solicone inside the trigger area so I cleaned all that up, made sure the needle guide was cleaned out and not it spits the paint out even worse than before.
Atleast I know how to take that one apart :)
Think at this time I'm just going to look around for a better airbrush. I know cheap paint guns suck (you get what you pay for) just figured there couldn't ve too much to these little thigs. Apparently I'm wrong!
I'm having fun atleast, watching videos and seeing pictures of what you CAN do with an airbrush, just getting a little too excited too fast to jump right in and take off. Learning there's more with getting the paint right and now the pressure like a normal paint gun. I'm still learning!
 
Side note on soaking that airbrush
It may have rubber seals for the needle bearing and urethane reducer or almost all cleaning solution will eat them up.
I only soak the nozzle and needle in 5619 restorer by Createx for all my water based paints http://www.coastairbrush.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Restorer

It will get out 99.9% of that gunk that builds up.
Also another trick is to put a little bees wax around the nozzle cap threads to ensure no air is leaking from there it too can cause issues with the way an airbrush sprays.
 
Side note on soaking that airbrush
It may have rubber seals for the needle bearing and urethane reducer or almost all cleaning solution will eat them up.
I only soak the nozzle and needle in 5619 restorer by Createx for all my water based paints http://www.coastairbrush.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Restorer

It will get out 99.9% of that gunk that builds up.
Also another trick is to put a little bees wax around the nozzle cap threads to ensure no air is leaking from there it too can cause issues with the way an airbrush sprays.
Forgot to mention I pulled the seals off before soaking ;)
I just bought a new line from Harbor Freight, has the fitting on one side that will screw onto a regular size air nipple and the other end is the 8th inch fitting for the airbrush. I'll bump up the pressure to make sure I'm getting atleast 25psi and play with that since I can now control it with my big compressor. I also bought an airbrush cleaning bottle. Let's see if the pressure has anything to do with the splattering!
 
The O ring I am referring to is inside the center of the airbrush in front of the trigger http://www.coastairbrush.com/partsairbrush/eclipseparts.asp
number 13 on this diagram. Most of the older airbrush and a lot of the knock off have rubber instead of teflon .
mainly it keeps the paint from flowing into the trigger area and really gumming up the works.
Great. I may have missed that one!
Well, I tried out the line and connected it to my big air compressor and I tried it out at 25psi. Seemed too high as it really blasted the paint out so I knocked it down to 20psi and same thing but it was spitting the paint out, like a bunch of fast dots coming out.
I think I am just going to return this airbrush and get a better one. I'm having nothing but issues with it and now that I have a line I can connect to a bigger compressor and actually regulate the air flow, I just want to get a better brush.
May end up using the 40% off coupon from Hobby Lobby and getting the Eclipse HP-CS. With that coupon it will knock it down to 126. Although I think 210 for an airbrush from Hobby Lobby is high when everyone else sells them for around $130...anyways, may just bite the bullet and get that.
Appreciate all the information, been very helpful, but I think this airbrush is just junk.
 
Its a good call. Airbrushes are precision instruments and need to be precision made, way more fussy than a big gun :) A good brush will let you concentrate on technique, and take out the 'is it me or the brush?' factor.

The spitting out blobs is probably the needle not seating properly, a seemingly invisible speck of paint can cause that. Its common when learning, especially when you're figuring out paint, and easy to identify when you know the brush is good. The cheap one could be a combination of issues, and badly made and fitting parts just add to that.

You wont be sorry you got the eclipse, its a great brush, and spot on for auto work, actually pretty much every kind of work.
 
Its a good call. Airbrushes are precision instruments and need to be precision made, way more fussy than a big gun :) A good brush will let you concentrate on technique, and take out the 'is it me or the brush?' factor.

The spitting out blobs is probably the needle not seating properly, a seemingly invisible speck of paint can cause that. Its common when learning, especially when you're figuring out paint, and easy to identify when you know the brush is good. The cheap one could be a combination of issues, and badly made and fitting parts just add to that.

You wont be sorry you got the eclipse, its a great brush, and spot on for auto work, actually pretty much every kind of work.
Thanks. Didn't want to spend that kind of money on something to try out but someone stated earlier if it doesn't work out, a gun like this I can resell and get some money back. I know I need to work on technique and dots and lines, hard to do with a brush that doesn't seem to work right!
 
I was looking at the class room used airbrush from coast airbrush which mainly the rebuild them but they are out of stock on them they are less then 100 bucks .
But for the 126 at hobby lobby you get the hose and some Com-art paint which is the paint designed by Iwata Anest , I have found if anything it is almost too thin right out the bottle LOL well except for in my Micron and infinity .
 
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