Can't get paint through.

[Bryan Williams]

Hi newbie Bry here.
Seems like I messed up before I started.
Got an airbrush, impaitiantly rushed into using it, mixed some cellulose and thinners in the gravity fed bowl,it blew through a couple of lines then stopped.
I assumed I had blocked it so I emptied it rinsed it with thinners,took ages before I got neat thinners to blow through..
I left it then thinking it was clear.Next day it will not blow water through,air comes through but bubbles come back into the bowl.Had it in bits flushed it, rinsed it over and over ,had the needle out, everything seems clean.Stuck now.
Don't really no how to set it up anyway.No real instructions..
Any ideas anybody?
Cheers Bryan.
I took a pic but the file is too big, I put a link to the Amazon page.

GaGa MILANO SP180K 0.2mm/0.3mm/0.5mm Professional Double-action Trigger Air-paint Control Airbrush for for General-purpose Art-and-craft Projects Tattoo Model-railroad Detailing R/C Car Bodies Plastic Kits https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B016PXGZ68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cZk7zbS1K7AJ4

 

[Bryan Williams]

My next move is to use one of the spare needles with the accompanying heads but thought I would ask some advice first. I am not sure how to set the needle up anyway..

 

[Malky]

Well Bryan, not the best choice of brush, this is a Chinese knock off of the Iwata micron and no where near as prestige, since you attempted to get cellulose paint through without any prior cleaning and inspection of the brush you have inadvertently blocked the nozzle, these cheap brushes are known for their inferior rubber seals, there is every possibility that your straight thinners has eaten one of these and maybe some of that is now in your nozzle, you may be able to clean it by soaking the nozzle without seal if it has one in the same thinners but in order to get any off the blockage out you may have to blow back.

Since you mention cellulose paint I'm curious where you are working or trying to with this brush, I hope not in your home without proper protective gear and ventilation and such, spraying even tiny amounts of cellulose paints outside of a suitable spray cabin is extremely dangerous for you and anyone else in close proximity, there are other water based alternatives which are far safer but whatever you intend to do with your airbrush will determine which paint will suit you best.

 

[Jurien72]

Hello Bryan welcome to the forum!

I think you have stumbled upon the first rule of airbrushing- Thou shalt keep thy airbrush clean! Its a good idea to give them a bit of scrubbing before you leave them for a time.

As far as the needle goes, it should seat firmly into the nozzle. You dont want to force it in there, the nozzle could get damaged. Typically you can see the tip of the needle sticking out of the nozzle.

I'm still half asleep so I hope this answer helps!

 

[Bryan Williams]

Mmm, I have taken all the bits off the needle end, cleaned seperately, it seems clear, I know it's a cheap one but was hoping to get some hobby use out of it.All the holes that I can see seem ok,air can be blown through, I can see light through. I can't see any paint anywhere...by the seals do you mean the visible o rings or are there hidden ones, the o rings themselves seem ok? I am just wondering if it's setup and adjusted properly.
I am careful about the safety aspects, I tried the cellulose as I am hoping to do some car repairs.

 

[Malky]

Mmm, I have taken all the bits off the needle end, cleaned seperately, it seems clear, I know it's a cheap one but was hoping to get some hobby use out of it.All the holes that I can see seem ok,air can be blown through, I can see light through. I can't see any paint anywhere...by the seals do you mean the visible o rings or are there hidden ones, the o rings themselves seem ok? I am just wondering if it's setup and adjusted properly.
I am careful about the safety aspects, I tried the cellulose as I am hoping to do some car repairs.

If you are completely sure the nozzle is clean then check the spacing between the the nozzle cap and the nozzle itself, there shoukd be an evenly spaced circular gap all the way round, this area could be blocked with paint.

Some brushes have a seal around the threads at the back of the nozzle s well as a seal wgae the needle passes through behind the trigger, if your brush has or had both of these they could be damaged.

 

[SiRoxx]

Is it possible that there's a blockage somewhere in the paint channel between the paint cup and the back of the nozzle? With the nozzle removed, you can use a small inter dental brush and clean from the front of the brush. You'll be able to see the brush coming into the bottom of the paint cup.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SiRoxx]

With regards to safety. Spraying cellulose is extremely hazardous without a proper respirator and good ventilation. When I say proper respirator, I mean not a paper mask from B&Q. I think something like the one in this link with the correct filters would be a minimum, (someone please correct me if it's not ok)! https://www.screwfix.com/p/3m-6000-...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CIbBnMfOhNcCFekg0wodeWMI-w
Water based paints are a lot safer, a respirator is still advisable, and are suitable for automotive. There are people on the forum much, much more experienced with cellulose than me, but please do some research on the safety side before doing anymore painting. Sorry for sounding like a Dad, but we're all here to help where we can and learn from others with all aspects, including safety.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Mr.Micron]

If you left it soaking in thinner and if it has rubber seals you have swollen all the seals which block the paint from coming through , If you plan on soaking something over night make it only the NOZZLE!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Bryan Williams]

I just swapped the 0.2needle for the 0.5, the head as well.
I tried some water and food dye.It came through ok but there's no control over the air now, that is, when I press the button for just air the paint comes through as well, before I slide the trigger back... also the o ring on the chuck has split.
Its going back...

 

[SiRoxx]

I just swapped the 0.2needle for the 0.5, the head as well.
I tried some water and food dye.It came through ok but there's no control over the air now, that is, when I press the button for just air the paint comes through as well, before I slide the trigger back... also the o ring on the chuck has split.
Its going back...

If you're getting paint and air it means the needle isn't seating properly. I have this happen every so often even if the nozzle is clean. You can try undoing the chuck gently push the needle forward while rotating it and tighten the chuck. It may need a couple of go's. But if you're seeing problems with the o Rings, sending it back is probably the best bet. Are you thinking an exchange or going with a different brush?

 

[Bryan Williams]

Different brush. It's only something to play around with as I have a little airmaster 50 Ltr comp.Fancied doing some art, maybe some custom art on my van, but only in the lower price range I'm afraid..

 

[Bryan Williams]

In the meantime I'm going to read up on the tutorials on this forum.. talk about doing things the wrong way round..

 

[SiRoxx]

In the meantime I'm going to read up on the tutorials on this forum.. talk about doing things the wrong way round..

Don't worry about that bit Mate. I did pretty much the same thing and once I figured out I love airbrushing, the budget I allowed got nudged up a little. But I started with no idea at all, then found this forum and it was like a totally different world. While you're doing the reading, if any questions come up, whack them search the "Beginners Questions" thread first and post your question there if you don't have the answer. Even if the question has been asked before, but you didn't quite get the answer, it's all good. This is an exceptionally friendly forum.
Just for a rough idea, what sort of price range would you be looking for the brush?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bryan Williams]

Thanks for the encouragement

Don't worry about that bit Mate. I did pretty much the same thing and once I figured out I love airbrushing, the budget I allowed got nudged up a little. But I started with no idea at all, then found this forum and it was like a totally different world. While you're doing the reading, if any questions come up, whack them search the "Beginners Questions" thread first and post your question there if you don't have the answer. Even if the question has been asked before, but you didn't quite get the answer, it's all good. This is an exceptionally friendly forum.
Just for a rough idea, what sort of price range would you be looking for the brush?

I guess under thirty quid, so bargain basement stuff really,as I don't really need one, it's just a whim, something I've always fancied toying with. I have an old vwT4 van that I fancy a flame job on or maybe custom speed lines, that kind of thing. If I can put acrylics on the van paint and a clear coat over it would be great..
By the look of it I will be sticking to acrylics if they are compatible..
Cheers for the encouragement.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SiRoxx]

You're welcome.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bryan Williams]

Probably lower end of the price range, it's just a bit of a whim at the moment, might try to customize my van with a flame job if I master it. Probably be sticking with acrylics if compatible with the van paint.

 

[SiRoxx]

Probably lower end of the price range, it's just a bit of a whim at the moment, might try to customize my van with a flame job if I master it. Probably be sticking with acrylics if compatible with the van paint.

Sure, nobody wants to throw money at something they're trying out. The main things to get a handle on first will be what brush and what paints.
That seems easy , but simply what paint can be a confusing place to be. With the brush, there are cheapy brushes that are serviceable or around £70 will get you a "Harder & Steenbeck Ultra" or an "Iwata Neo". Those are both solid cheaper brushes.
Have a look round the forum, and shout if you get lost [emoji3].


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JackEb]

Ok, seeing as you started the wrong way round, you must stand in the middle of the room and spin around for 10 seconds and then go back to the beginning.

my first suggestion would be registering on the airbrush tutor site
http://www.airbrushtutor.com/ He's our esteemed leader, the guy that started this place and the reason that many of us have gotten further into airbrushing than we thought possible. many of us 'found' one of his youtube videos and liked what we saw.

If you want to work on vehicles then you need to realise that a lot of places (body shops etc) are starting to switch to waterbased paint as the realisation of the dangers of urethanes is starting to sink in. NEVER spray urethanes outside of a commercial spray booth - nasty stuff. @SiRoxx is spot on with his advise on this.
Look at the Createx Wicked range of paint. its a great all rounder, suitable for vehicles and water based so the need for such high end ventilation and respirators isnt required if you are not doing full body resprays
.
when you buy paint you'll inevitably need the appropriate reducers for Createx it is 4012 (High Performance Reducer) and i'd also recommend a small bottle of Createx Restorer. Magical stuff when you get blockages.

Golden rule No. 1: Never leave a half cleaned brush and walk away. It almost always ends in tears and tantrums.

I realise youre not wanting to spend a lot of cash at this point, and most of us started the same way. But trying to learn with the wrong stuff isnt going to make your journey enjoyable and will likely make you want to throw everything at the wall.

My starting suggestion would be.
The best brush you can afford
1oz (30ml) bottle of Createx Wicked. Sepia or Paynes Grey is a versatile colour and you'll be able to get a wide range of tones just from the one colour
2oz (60ml) of 4012 High performance reducer - quite often you will use 1 paint to 4 reducer, even though createx state it can be used straight from the bottle.
1oz (30ml) bottle of Createx Restorer. (its resuable so its economical)

Other paints are Golden High Flow, @markjthomson uses them so he can elaborate on the reducers / cleaners etc.

Etac or Com-art: Great paints if you can source them, very newbie friendly, not good for vehicles but you cant expect to run before you can walk.

and now my mind has gone blank, and youre probably going cross eyed reading so i'll let the others chime in with additional suggestions.

 

[Bryan Williams]

Ok, seeing as you started the wrong way round, you must stand in the middle of the room and spin around for 10 seconds and then go back to the beginning.

my first suggestion would be registering on the airbrush tutor site
http://www.airbrushtutor.com/ He's our esteemed leader, the guy that started this place and the reason that many of us have gotten further into airbrushing than we thought possible. many of us 'found' one of his youtube videos and liked what we saw.

If you want to work on vehicles then you need to realise that a lot of places (body shops etc) are starting to switch to waterbased paint as the realisation of the dangers of urethanes is starting to sink in. NEVER spray urethanes outside of a commercial spray booth - nasty stuff. @SiRoxx is spot on with his advise on this.
Look at the Createx Wicked range of paint. its a great all rounder, suitable for vehicles and water based so the need for such high end ventilation and respirators isnt required if you are not doing full body resprays
.
when you buy paint you'll inevitably need the appropriate reducers for Createx it is 4012 (High Performance Reducer) and i'd also recommend a small bottle of Createx Restorer. Magical stuff when you get blockages.

Golden rule No. 1: Never leave a half cleaned brush and walk away. It almost always ends in tears and tantrums.

I realise youre not wanting to spend a lot of cash at this point, and most of us started the same way. But trying to learn with the wrong stuff isnt going to make your journey enjoyable and will likely make you want to throw everything at the wall.

My starting suggestion would be.
The best brush you can afford
1oz (30ml) bottle of Createx Wicked. Sepia or Paynes Grey is a versatile colour and you'll be able to get a wide range of tones just from the one colour
2oz (60ml) of 4012 High performance reducer - quite often you will use 1 paint to 4 reducer, even though createx state it can be used straight from the bottle.
1oz (30ml) bottle of Createx Restorer. (its resuable so its economical)

Other paints are Golden High Flow, @markjthomson uses them so he can elaborate on the reducers / cleaners etc.

Etac or Com-art: Great paints if you can source them, very newbie friendly, not good for vehicles but you cant expect to run before you can walk.

and now my mind has gone blank, and youre probably going cross eyed reading so i'll let the others chime in with additional suggestions.

Cheers mate, gonna think this one through, guns going back to Amazon tomorrow, need a little more research I think, glad I found this site, will check out your advice, appreciate it.