Cheap candy concentrate

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Kuherrm

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I stumbled upon Folkart ultra dye,
Tried it in autoair intercoat clear, worked super well as a candy paint. Was wondering if anyone has tried this stuff or knew of draw backs?
 
There is no such think as a free lunch and there is a good reason automotive finishers don't use "shortcut" products. It may look like a candy and act like a candy but the question is, will it fade, react or generally do things you don't want on your work? trial it by all means, then stick it in the sun for a decent length of time and see how it responds in the UV. My pick is it will fade badly.
 
There is no such think as a free lunch and there is a good reason automotive finishers don't use "shortcut" products. It may look like a candy and act like a candy but the question is, will it fade, react or generally do things you don't want on your work? trial it by all means, then stick it in the sun for a decent length of time and see how it responds in the UV. My pick is it will fade badly.
Thanks for the reply, I can see your point but aren't all dyes not uv resistant, isnt that what the clearcoat is for? I appreciate any feedback
 
No, the UV coat just slows it down. Some dyes are more resistant than others. This dye looks like it is designed for fabric. Even UV resistant ones fade over time... If you want to give it a trial it can be worth it BUT i wouldn't do it for a customer... Fixing candies once they've faded is a strip and respray.
 
No, the UV coat just slows it down. Some dyes are more resistant than others. This dye looks like it is designed for fabric. Even UV resistant ones fade over time... If you want to give it a trial it can be worth it BUT i wouldn't do it for a customer... Fixing candies once they've faded is a strip and respray.
Ah ok, I will give it a whirl in the sun, how long does it typically take to start fading?
 
Depends... could be days, could be months. You should see after 12 months - yes it can take that long. If you want to run a test, do two panels, keep one of them out of the sun put the other in direct sun. You will see what happens.
 
Just like the new craze of using sharpies to do art on automotive and bike , They all will fade over time , Even the high dollar candy can fade if you do not maintain the paint job ,
Main thing you need to think about it how will it react to everything else you are using ie.... intercoat clear, base coat , clear coat .
Most paint designed for fabric are thicker and bigger pigment and need a bigger nozzle set up to work well.
I always will suggest to use the paint for what it is designed for unless you are just trying something new on a test panel .
 

Didnt turn out half bad imo, cleared it with some spi euro clear

I appreciate the responses, well have to wait n see how it holds up
 
Another thing, a "real" candy will only affect the greyscale of colors lighter than it (so black will remain black as it was for instance). A dye will to an extend act as an opaque the same as a highly reduced opaque paint and will affect the grey scale value of the colors darker than it (making 'm slightly lighter).

This ofcourse doesn't have to be a problem when doing stuff like the test panel you showed, it is something to take into consideration though when using candy to actualy color a black and white illustration.
 
I am a big proponent of staying within a paint system aside true water-based acrylics.
 
It is water based

What I meant in aside "true water-based acrylics" is airbrush paint. Say using Liquitex airbrush medium with Golden Fluid Acrylics or regular Createx. The Folkart dye is not airbrush paint and meant to be brushed on. Wicked and Autoborne are not true waterbased paint as they contain solvents. With urethanes, if I were doing a job with House of Kolor I would stay House of Kolor. Were I using PPG Deltron Basecoat, I would stay within that system.

Personally, for what you are trying to do, I would use Createx Pure pigments or something similar and airbrushable. Just my opinion. Experimenting and testing never hurts either but to stay on the safe side, I wouldn't go that far out of the system to save a few dollars just to save a few bucks.
 
But in that regard, what would you use for a top finishing coat for wicked or auto-air
 
Any suggestions on what would work since they dont make a clear
If you haven't gone back and referred to what the manufacturer says you need too. The first answer an experienced painter will ask (well OK, right up at the top of the list...) is "what does the manufacturer say?" It is well worth the time getting familiar with their recommendations as they know their product. If in doubt, read the manual... :)

http://www.createxcolors.com/technical.html

There is a link tohelp... :)
 
any good 2k clear will work. I use HOK 90% of the time but I also have used PPG due to a customers budget .
You can also try the new Createx Candy O2 with there inter coat clear or the transbase depending on if you want the colors to bleed and blend like a urethane candy.
 
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