Createx Illustration! Arghh!!

In response to the video and you noting the 30 drops of reducer. One you should drop you air way lower with that much reduce. Two you are stopping the movement of your had and air slightly before you are stopping the paint flow which is causing a little blob of paint popping off the needle tip. I have this happen a lot. I am going to repeat this once again. Seal all your threads with beeswax. It fixed everything that you are showing here. Unscrew the nozzle part way and put a small amount of beeswax on the thread with a toothpick. Then run a lighter unde go a split second just to melt the wax. Then quickly thread the nozzle the rest of the way in while the wax is still real soft! Wipe off any excess wax. Then do the head in the same manner. Please note you are not heating the head just barely touch the wax from below so it runs down around the thread to make a complete seal. I have been so frustrated with Createx for years and it was all due to warn threads and bad seals on my Iwata airbrush. I have sealed all my brushes and now the CI flowed perfectly. I only need to reduce down to a 3 to 1 reducer/paint ratio. And my air pressure is around 23 psi. The more reducer the lower my air will go. I was ready to throw 3 sets of paint in the garbage because of everything you showed. Hope this helps.


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Thanks for the help. I think I can mark some possibilities off the list.

- I've tried lower pressure during this test and it only gets worse.
- If you listen the air never stops the whole time. I pull the trigger back until the paint starts to flow. I paint a squiggly line, then the paint stops flowing on its own with the trigger still pulled back and the air on. I return the trigger to the seated position while the trigger is still depressed (air noise still evident) and a blob of paint comes out.
-I can mark the threads off the list. I've sealed the nozzle to the base with loctite. Sealed the nozzle cap and base with beeswax. I can spray cleaner through the gun at 50 psi and no more bubble leaks at the threads.
-I tightened the needle packing nut a little tighter than "slight drag" so unless it's damaged beyond what my eyes can see then it's marked off the list.

It's pretty plain to me from the second video that green flows way worse than black. I'm going to do the same flow test (squirt into garbage can :D) on all colors and note the ones that flow much slower. I'm then going to do a test spray on all colors and see if the problem only occurs with those slower flowing paints.

Thanks
 
Yeehaw! I got off work early so now I can start testing.
So far I've tested moss green vs a few other colors and it's quite obvious why it's not spraying well. I'll squirt one drop of paint onto the side of the mixing cup and let it run down to the bottom before adding 3 drops 4012 reducer. All colors so far run down the side traveling approximately an inch in 1 to 2 seconds. The moss green takes 30+ SECONDS!!
I'll try to get all the colors tested and results posted today.
 
Mine as I continue real tight lines will begin to look grainy so I will back off and clean the tip with a q-tip with some 4011 reducer on it. And it flow is real good again. My paint was doing the exact same thing before I sealed my brush. Exact same thing. And yes some paint flows slower because of the pigments. Is there a chance there is any slight bend in the needle?

One thing Dave at Coast AB Supply mentioned is when you are tight at to high of a pressure the paint will roll back up the edge of the nozzle and start to dry a pinch and then spit. Especially when moving the needle forward it drags the dry and the a sudden amount of whet which spits that dot. I So sure there is some little thing in that scenario that is messing with you. I will think some more. And let you know if I come up with anything.


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Mine as I continue real tight lines will begin to look grainy so I will back off and clean the tip with a q-tip with some 4011 reducer on it. And it flow is real good again. My paint was doing the exact same thing before I sealed my brush. Exact same thing. And yes some paint flows slower because of the pigments. Is there a chance there is any slight bend in the needle?

One thing Dave at Coast AB Supply mentioned is when you are tight at to high of a pressure the paint will roll back up the edge of the nozzle and start to dry a pinch and then spit. Especially when moving the needle forward it drags the dry and the a sudden amount of whet which spits that dot. I So sure there is some little thing in that scenario that is messing with you. I will think some more. And let you know if I come up with anything.


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That's interesting. I always assumed on a micro scale that those eddies and currents of the air were doing things that were not in our favor. I noticed this

all the time with some colors and doing tight detail.... that the performance would go away. You could almost watch it. Like you knew you had 10

seconds of killer tight detail then slowly it get worse and worse. Then you would have to "reset". Pick the needle.. do a couple quick clearing blasts then

go back at it. Sometimes it would get so bad I just have to break down and do a full cleanout and cleaning and re-load.
 
Mine as I continue real tight lines will begin to look grainy so I will back off and clean the tip with a q-tip with some 4011 reducer on it. And it flow is real good again. My paint was doing the exact same thing before I sealed my brush. Exact same thing. And yes some paint flows slower because of the pigments. Is there a chance there is any slight bend in the needle?

One thing Dave at Coast AB Supply mentioned is when you are tight at to high of a pressure the paint will roll back up the edge of the nozzle and start to dry a pinch and then spit. Especially when moving the needle forward it drags the dry and the a sudden amount of whet which spits that dot. I So sure there is some little thing in that scenario that is messing with you. I will think some more. And let you know if I come up with anything.


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Thank you. It is very much appreciated. The needle is good. As a matter of fact I forgot to mention it is a k33 needle which kinda makes it even more odd.
Also, when you say 1:3 ratio (sorry, from my auto body days it's paint:reducer to me :D I can't shake it) are you using "drops" from the reducer bottle. I couldn't control the reducer flow out of the stock bottle very well so I put some in a glass bottle with a dropper. The dropper makes a little bit smaller drops so 1:4 for me might be more like your 1:3. Maybe sounds like splitting hairs but I'm trying to think about all variables.
The few colors I've tried today other than moss green are working pretty good at 1:3 reduction. :thumbsup:
 
Thank you. It is very much appreciated. The needle is good. As a matter of fact I forgot to mention it is a k33 needle which kinda makes it even more odd.
Also, when you say 1:3 ratio (sorry, from my auto body days it's paint:reducer to me :D I can't shake it) are you using "drops" from the reducer bottle. I couldn't control the reducer flow out of the stock bottle very well so I put some in a glass bottle with a dropper. The dropper makes a little bit smaller drops so 1:4 for me might be more like your 1:3. Maybe sounds like splitting hairs but I'm trying to think about all variables.
The few colors I've tried today other than moss green are working pretty good at 1:3 reduction. :thumbsup:
Yes right out of the stock bottle and yes a 1:3 ratio. That's on the lighter colors on Cobalt Blue, Burnt Umber and Black I have to go a bit further. I have more issue with that dot at the end of my stroke when I used my Micron C+. The other brushes didn't do that as much. The thing is when painting that close to the surface you get a lot of air bouncing back at the needle tip and it will cause excessive tip dry with Createx Illustration. That why I drop the pressure now as low as I can get away with and I clean the needle a lot.


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Yes right out of the stock bottle and yes a 1:3 ratio. That's on the lighter colors on Cobalt Blue, Burnt Umber and Black I have to go a bit further. I have more issue with that dot at the end of my stroke when I used my Micron C+. The other brushes didn't do that as much. The thing is when painting that close to the surface you get a lot of air bouncing back at the needle tip and it will cause excessive tip dry with Createx Illustration. That why I drop the pressure now as low as I can get away with and I clean the needle a lot.


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Most people naturally angle their airbrush on a line so dunno too much on the bounce-back theory, it would occur to some extent but the pressure bouncing back will obviously be less than the pressure coming out simply due to resisstance of the molecules/surfaces it encounters but saying that it could indeed lower the "out" pressure..Say 10 psi coming out 3 or 4 (being generous) bouncing back and in essence that creates a restriction or reduction of what the pressure really should be which then lowers the out pressure enough to start creating spits and the blobs mentioned, so yer maybe something there but certainly you think easily sorted by increasing distance and increasing the speed of the stroke.(You don't always have to go closer or use thinner paints to get thinner lines, movement play a big part) but as to how much such would affect an airbrush on a slight angle doing the same line, I would assume would be much less as the pressure isn't bouncing directly back to a parallel brush.
 
I don't have issues but I do mix in my cup and I use a soft paint brush, put the reducer in the cup, spray a lil out in hopes to lubricate the internals, drop the paint in, my reduction varies depending on my project but I generally will start with either a 5:1 or 10:1 ratio. Then mix thoroughly with the small soft lettering paint brush. Picked this habit up watching Gerald Mendez and really feel it helps break the pigments up quicker, just my opinion, but seems to work for me.


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Yes right out of the stock bottle and yes a 1:3 ratio. That's on the lighter colors on Cobalt Blue, Burnt Umber and Black I have to go a bit further. I have more issue with that dot at the end of my stroke when I used my Micron C+. The other brushes didn't do that as much. The thing is when painting that close to the surface you get a lot of air bouncing back at the needle tip and it will cause excessive tip dry with Createx Illustration. That why I drop the pressure now as low as I can get away with and I clean the needle a lot.


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Wow. I never even thought about bounce back air. Thanks. :thumbsup:
 
I don't have issues but I do mix in my cup and I use a soft paint brush, put the reducer in the cup, spray a lil out in hopes to lubricate the internals, drop the paint in, my reduction varies depending on my project but I generally will start with either a 5:1 or 10:1 ratio. Then mix thoroughly with the small soft lettering paint brush. Picked this habit up watching Gerald Mendez and really feel it helps break the pigments up quicker, just my opinion, but seems to work for me.


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Thanks Russ. That's how I've been doing it lately but I haven't been keeping my brush as clean as I should. :depressed:

I've tested most of the CI colors I have today and there is just a difference between colors for whatever reason. Pigments I assume.

The best performing for me at 1:3 paint:reducer

•Viridian (flowed awesome), scarlet, red-violet, magenta, burnt umber, burnt sienna

•The blues were iffy along with Sepia. Even when sepia is flowing ok it just has really grainy pigment.

•The moss green and violet flowed horrible. I upped reduction to 1:8-10 to get it to flow decent.

I guess I just need more experience testing with reductions on this paint. Now I'll have to stop being so scattered :eek: and start logging some reduction numbers as a baseline for each color.

Thanks to everyone for your help. :)
Especially @Airbrush Dreams. I know it's taking away from your airbrush time to help out. :thumbsup:
 
Thanks Russ. That's how I've been doing it lately but I haven't been keeping my brush as clean as I should. :depressed:

I've tested most of the CI colors I have today and there is just a difference between colors for whatever reason. Pigments I assume.

The best performing for me at 1:3 paint:reducer

•Viridian (flowed awesome), scarlet, red-violet, magenta, burnt umber, burnt sienna

•The blues were iffy along with Sepia. Even when sepia is flowing ok it just has really grainy pigment.

•The moss green and violet flowed horrible. I upped reduction to 1:8-10 to get it to flow decent.

I guess I just need more experience testing with reductions on this paint. Now I'll have to stop being so scattered :eek: and start logging some reduction numbers as a baseline for each color.

Thanks to everyone for your help. :)
Especially @Airbrush Dreams. I know it's taking away from your airbrush time to help out. :thumbsup:
No problem at all. We are all here to help each other. I feel for you because I went through this for about 7 years and every response I got was a dirty brush. I knew it wasn't just like you. It took Dave's help at Coast Airbrush Supply to figure it out. I sent him a video of me doing the Last Supper portrait and he pin pointed it out right off the bat. All I did was relay that same info because they are the same issue. If anyone has a disagreement with this they should contact Dave at Coast to clarify. Good luck Greg.


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No problem at all. We are all here to help each other. I feel for you because I went through this for about 7 years and every response I got was a dirty brush. I knew it wasn't just like you. It took Dave's help at Coast Airbrush Supply to figure it out. I sent him a video of me doing the Last Supper portrait and he pin pointed it out right off the bat. All I did was relay that same info because they are the same issue. If anyone has a disagreement with this they should contact Dave at Coast to clarify. Good luck Greg.


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Thanks ;)
 
No problem at all. We are all here to help each other. I feel for you because I went through this for about 7 years and every response I got was a dirty brush. I knew it wasn't just like you. It took Dave's help at Coast Airbrush Supply to figure it out. I sent him a video of me doing the Last Supper portrait and he pin pointed it out right off the bat. All I did was relay that same info because they are the same issue. If anyone has a disagreement with this they should contact Dave at Coast to clarify. Good luck Greg.


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Wasn't fully disagreeing m8, it's an interesting theory. Just one that doesn't always work if you think about it with common sense and I'm sorry if I do that and it annoys people that someone wants to discuss a point brought forward at a discussion forum. When something bounces it bounces directly back if the source is perpendicular to the surface, simple physics and would bounce off at 45 degrees or the opposite of the angle if you paint a line at an angle, fact is most do so they can see the line they make LOL, some though may paint much straighter on, doesn't mean Daves wrong, but doesn't mean he was right, ain't belittling the idea m8, was a goodin and def worth discussing as air resistance, surface resistance, and so many interesting things could be involved in that idea, but to be fair, nuthins gospel in airbrushing or any art and as it's something not often discussed, why be like that?

I know we may rub each other up at times the wrong way on the odd thread, but have much respect for what you and everyone adds here on these kinda convo's and respect your experience, perhaps try respecting mine, but there's no prize for helping the most or for being the most correct, we're all just here I figured to talk about that thing we love to do so please if I do disagree with something, understand it's not belittling the info but instead wanting to help add or clarify the info, I may be wrong and can accept being told if explained well why that may be the case..One issue we have in this world is when people say so and so says so it must be right..I don't know Dave, likely is a very smart man but just because someone says..doesn't make it so..but again was an interesting theory and would have loved to have an interesting discussion once in a while when it comes to airbrushing as it's not often that this kinda mechanics/physics of the airbrush is chatted about and I was actually just interested in the idea..Plus will add one more thing..99% of airbrush issues are not one single element but the whole..Often one issue causes another, fixing one's fine for awhile but the other may still be there, we all know this fact- Not one single person here can look at a video and say that's the issue..can't be done...Could be the issue, try this maybe then that, most often though its not one single thing causing the issue..So what we do is throw out those discussion points...

You see you didn't really have to add the bit at the bottom of your last post m8 because I don't really care what Dave thinks unless I respond to him saying the same, I actually cared to hear what you thought of the theory you're telling or passing on, and if you don't understand what someone maybe with more experience is saying, be wary about passing it on or do so with a grain of salt or say I had a similar issue and Dave helped get it right but go discuss it with him to find out a little more as it is a bit of a unique theory.. fact is, it MAY be the issue, but it may not, hopefully though it was for him and it fixes the issue but pumpin 35-40 PSI m8, bounce back worries me nought not have I ever seen a majorly negative and continuous effect of such, what is more of an issue when painting close is how it upsets the venturi and the pressure zones of the airbrush as lot of airbrushes form the venturi externally, some also do so internally but as that's the engine, disrupting the pressure zones as you would by being closer, disrupts the paint flow and possibly creates blobs and blockages so could be other reasons too, but I do hope your right and it's as easy for him to fix, but dunno how someone could do that nor why we don't all get the same problem when painting close...

This is clearly an issue of many issues, paint Blues and greens we know are biatches, base greens are often to thick or grainy due to the blues used in their creation, for some reason blue in many ranges grains, skill (No offence to the poster), the airbrush and technique and possibly some bounce back, leaky threads etc etc etc..Start at the first and work through to find the actual issue/s.. by the way...How did Dave tell you to fix it?
 
Wasn't fully disagreeing m8, it's an interesting theory. Just one that doesn't always work if you think about it with common sense and I'm sorry if I do that and it annoys people that someone wants to discuss a point brought forward at a discussion forum. When something bounces it bounces directly back if the source is perpendicular to the surface, simple physics and would bounce off at 45 degrees or the opposite of the angle if you paint a line at an angle, fact is most do so they can see the line they make LOL, some though may paint much straighter on, doesn't mean Daves wrong, but doesn't mean he was right, ain't belittling the idea m8, was a goodin and def worth discussing as air resistance, surface resistance, and so many interesting things could be involved in that idea, but to be fair, nuthins gospel in airbrushing or any art and as it's something not often discussed, why be like that?

I know we may rub each other up at times the wrong way on the odd thread, but have much respect for what you and everyone adds here on these kinda convo's and respect your experience, perhaps try respecting mine, but there's no prize for helping the most or for being the most correct, we're all just here I figured to talk about that thing we love to do so please if I do disagree with something, understand it's not belittling the info but instead wanting to help add or clarify the info, I may be wrong and can accept being told if explained well why that may be the case..One issue we have in this world is when people say so and so says so it must be right..I don't know Dave, likely is a very smart man but just because someone says..doesn't make it so..but again was an interesting theory and would have loved to have an interesting discussion once in a while when it comes to airbrushing as it's not often that this kinda mechanics/physics of the airbrush is chatted about and I was actually just interested in the idea..Plus will add one more thing..99% of airbrush issues are not one single element but the whole..Often one issue causes another, fixing one's fine for awhile but the other may still be there, we all know this fact- Not one single person here can look at a video and say that's the issue..can't be done...Could be the issue, try this maybe then that, most often though its not one single thing causing the issue..So what we do is throw out those discussion points...

You see you didn't really have to add the bit at the bottom of your last post m8 because I don't really care what Dave thinks unless I respond to him saying the same, I actually cared to hear what you thought of the theory you're telling or passing on, and if you don't understand what someone maybe with more experience is saying, be wary about passing it on or do so with a grain of salt or say I had a similar issue and Dave helped get it right but go discuss it with him to find out a little more as it is a bit of a unique theory.. fact is, it MAY be the issue, but it may not, hopefully though it was for him and it fixes the issue but pumpin 35-40 PSI m8, bounce back worries me nought not have I ever seen a majorly negative and continuous effect of such, what is more of an issue when painting close is how it upsets the venturi and the pressure zones of the airbrush as lot of airbrushes form the venturi externally, some also do so internally but as that's the engine, disrupting the pressure zones as you would by being closer, disrupts the paint flow and possibly creates blobs and blockages so could be other reasons too, but I do hope your right and it's as easy for him to fix, but dunno how someone could do that nor why we don't all get the same problem when painting close...

This is clearly an issue of many issues, paint Blues and greens we know are biatches, base greens are often to thick or grainy due to the blues used in their creation, for some reason blue in many ranges grains, skill (No offence to the poster), the airbrush and technique and possibly some bounce back, leaky threads etc etc etc..Start at the first and work through to find the actual issue/s.. by the way...How did Dave tell you to fix it?
No problem Rebel we are all good here. I was just relaying the info I was told in the hopes that it may benefit another that was experiencing the same issues that I was experiencing. It's like the story that gets told to one person in a group and the relayed ten times till it gets back to the original person and you see how the story has changed. I may not have quoted Dave exactly or the translation was lost in the way I explained it. That's why I say to contact Dave at Coast. That way the info becomes first hand.

In fact here is part of my conversation with Dave off messenger. This is Dave's reply to a short video clip I sent to get help.

"Hi ... it doesn't look like it could be your paint or compressor ? I do notice that you are up and down on the trigger . If you are letting the air off while paint is flowimg "trigger pulled back " then this will leave what some call tip dry . WhAt can happen are a few things ... it will leave paint on the end of the needle that can start to crawl up into the nozzle cap and dry .... the hissing is from the dry paint up in the cap or on the needle . The other thing that happens is that the brush will start to spit tiny drops of paint every time you push up and down . We have always taught fir years to hold the air down at all times pushing the trigger forward before you let the air off . This will fir the most part of it help keep the needle and nozzle cap clean . If you ever watch out videos on coast airbrush tv .com you can also see that we turn the airbrush to the side from time to time after doing detail and pull the trigger back all the way .we do this to let a wet large amount of paint flush out any accumulation of dry paint . There is only a small amount of paint coming out when doing detail .... it can dry much faster then a large burst . The other thing is making sure your needle packing is snug ..... if not it's like drinking out of a broken straw and the paint will move slower out of the airbrush causing tip dry ...... the other thing is a loose nozzle. The type of brush you are using is a threaded nozzle ...... I recommend only taking the nozzle off if it can't be helped ... the nozzle is platinum the body is brass ... the brass threads become soft if removed allot and the only fix is heating up bees wax and recreating a better seal . The passageway from the cup of that model is more narrow then a Micron .... this to can be an issue when doing lots of detail .
The Micron entire head comes off fir cleaning so you don't have to unthread the nozzle ...... the passageway is huge and provides less resistance from the cup to the very tip of the nozzle . Hope some of this helps ...... it's always best to call me fir more detailed info if you like."

I can add more if you would like.


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Greg moss green seems to be an issue. I only use Wicked but I had major issues with a bottle. They said it was temperature damaged and I got it replaced, and it worked well for a while, but then I started having issues again, and I store all my paints the same. I have seen a few problems with that particular colour on the forum over the years. My theory for what its worth is that it either has a shorter shelf life, or the pigment settles and becomes more concentrated during use, especially if you filter by putting something over the neck of the bottle, what is left behind gets more concentrated. I have had a similar issue with black re concentrated pigment. I don't use moss green any more, I had it with a kit I was bought when I started out, now I just mix my own, but when the bottom half of a bottle of black starts to misbehave, then adding trans base balances out the amount of pigment again, and gives it back the right amount of pigment per volume. Maybe that could be worth a try?
 
Am glad @Airbrush Dreams had a bad day yestie in r/l, prob came across a lot worse than what I was trying to say..we do have to be careful when passing on info and thats all I meant, when it gets passed around a few times we often upset the original meaning like you mention. I still can't see where Daves talking about blow back but really doesn't matter as it is an interesting thought as to how much it could affect us and I am glad you bought it up as it is a pretty interesting idea and wld love to work out a way to actually test it..Dave doe suggest though such issue is caused by numerous things generally. The trouble shooting guides here also give the same kind of advice as have most of us since day 1, spitting airbrushes can be so many different issues occurring and sometimes its just a case of time at the board to strangle them out.One thing Dave does mention and not enough do it, blow your brushes clean in between strokes :) and if your top pressure is only 10-15 psi then it aint going to clear much..I really feel this all has to do with how low PSI people like to paint at these days..I cant be bothered going under 30-40 PSI (Because it causes issue) LOL, but then I dont paint to small..
 
Greg moss green seems to be an issue. I only use Wicked but I had major issues with a bottle. They said it was temperature damaged and I got it replaced, and it worked well for a while, but then I started having issues again, and I store all my paints the same. I have seen a few problems with that particular colour on the forum over the years. My theory for what its worth is that it either has a shorter shelf life, or the pigment settles and becomes more concentrated during use, especially if you filter by putting something over the neck of the bottle, what is left behind gets more concentrated. I have had a similar issue with black re concentrated pigment. I don't use moss green any more, I had it with a kit I was bought when I started out, now I just mix my own, but when the bottom half of a bottle of black starts to misbehave, then adding trans base balances out the amount of pigment again, and gives it back the right amount of pigment per volume. Maybe that could be worth a try?


Thank you Squishy. Along with just being a difficult color, I do also think it's damaged. It's really difficult to only get 1 drop of paint to dispense at a time because it just strings together. If the trans base doesn't help I'll just mix my own as well. Thanks :)
 
Really sounds like shoddy binders m, its what we call dead paint. The binders are gone, does it smell funky? Like beyond paint funky. most have antibacterials in them which like other elements in many paints simply orgainic..Most of the higher end brands use I believe an organic solvent 9brains not working atm to name it off hand) This is a mild solvent hich then can be branded as water bourne or water based. But it also allows cross blending with solvents its basically a solvent, just a mild one.. if its a yr old and you don't know how long it sat on a shelf b4, another yr/6 months? Exposed maybe to a shops sunlight all day? The fresher the paint the better so buy things with clearly identifiable batch dates and it has to be kept well..Paint will last yrs when sealed and stored right but some may go off in months once opened, mostly due to bacteria and being stored in excessive temps and conditions..Try a fresher batch of the colors causing your issue or simply swap to a brand you can clearly identify its age...Maybe CI's not for you and another brand may suit, all have their faves, Etacs greens are quite nice if i remember right, so are spectra's but when you drop it on that video some things simply wrong, the paint looks off. if you cop the same on a new bottle as you want to stay with CI, make your greens or try just the green from a diff brand or range in createx....I don't buy anything but primary's personally, but thats not for all..Good luck

PS By off I mean this..Sit a good color in your color cup for about 3 days, grab a cotton bud and scoop it out, it will have that same elongated stickyness going on to it..The matrix has already started to form as binders are going off, evaporating and the paints essentially trying to stick itself to other paint..adding more binder may help bring it back prior to binning it :) Many artistic flow mediums have acrylic binders in em to help in over reduction issues and binder breakdown, may not help though or be compatible with CI.
 
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@GregStith I'm having the same issue with my CM-SB and com-art, but not with the CM-C or Evo and also live in a dry place, it is backing me crazy as never has this issue before, and cleaned a lot all my brushes with acetone and they were too dirty but now they aren't, I really don’t know what to do to solve it, I boxed the CM-SB and it’s a shame cause I want to get to get use to it.
 
Am glad @Airbrush Dreams had a bad day yestie in r/l, prob came across a lot worse than what I was trying to say..we do have to be careful when passing on info and thats all I meant, when it gets passed around a few times we often upset the original meaning like you mention. I still can't see where Daves talking about blow back but really doesn't matter as it is an interesting thought as to how much it could affect us and I am glad you bought it up as it is a pretty interesting idea and wld love to work out a way to actually test it..Dave doe suggest though such issue is caused by numerous things generally. The trouble shooting guides here also give the same kind of advice as have most of us since day 1, spitting airbrushes can be so many different issues occurring and sometimes its just a case of time at the board to strangle them out.One thing Dave does mention and not enough do it, blow your brushes clean in between strokes :) and if your top pressure is only 10-15 psi then it aint going to clear much..I really feel this all has to do with how low PSI people like to paint at these days..I cant be bothered going under 30-40 PSI (Because it causes issue) LOL, but then I dont paint to small..
What I was talking about and I had miss worded it was the part where Dave said about tip dry and it causes the paint to start crawling back up the needle and inside the nozzle cap which was what was causing my hiss sound and then a sudden spit as it blows out all over my paper.

As for the dot at the end of the stroke, in my experience has been 1 stopping your stroke at the same time as you stop the paint. 2 is the tip dry starts to build stopping paint flow and when the needle rides forward moist paint comes out on the needle and suddenly blows that round dot. I get that a lot with my Micron C+. And 3 would be a slightly bent needle tip that is hanging onto a small dot of paint.


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