Does the tip create the brush size?

B

baevans11

Guest
This will probably seem like a really dumb question to most so forgive me as I am very new to this. But I have a Master G22 & G25. Does the tip cap determine the size of the stroke size? (Other than the application of the dual action of course) the reason I ask is the G25 has better feel to me especially for more detailed stuff but it doesn't have a resovoir cap and I was just wondering if I could merely change the cap from one to the other to use the G22 (with cap) to achieve the same detail as the G25? I received these a gift to get into the hobby and I plan to get a higher end brush soon I just want to make the most with what I have for now. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
If parts are interchangeable you can experiment with them as you like:) If you don't like the result it's always possible to put the parts where they were at the beginning.
 
I assume you are referring to the thickness of a line you spray? There are many things that affect it. Paint viscosity, pressure, speed of pass, closeness of brush to surface and amount of needle pulled back. So assuming your needle is pulled all the way back to give a consistent amount of paint flow you can make a thinner line by either moving faster and closer. The real key is practice.
 
From what I can find, where the G22 and G25 are offered together, the G22 is listed as having a .3 tip size, the G25 a. 2. Those "point 3" or "point 2" numbers indicate nozzle opening size, and will generally indicate which one will paint a fatter or thinner line. The higher the number the larger the paint flow... I am pretty sure that the head pieces on those brushes are interchangeable, and you should be able to switch the pieces. Now, here is the thing - I can not swear, as those brushes are of an inexpensive nature, but - Generally, when you change the nozzle size, like going from a .2 to .3, you also need to switch to a .3 needle, and .3 air cap.
 
Last edited:
Now, here is the thing - I can not swear, as those brushes are of an inexpensive nature, but - Generally, when you change the nozzle size, like going from a .2 to .3, you also need to switch to a .3 needle, and .3 air cap.

Dave, you're right about changing both nozzle and needle but air cap remains the same. I've had the situation in the past.
 
Dave, you're right about changing both nozzle and needle but air cap remains the same. I've had the situation in the past.

If you are talking about these two specific brushes (g22 and g25), that may be the case - that the air cap remains the same between them. On most of the other brushes that I have experience with, the air cap is part of the conversion (in size).
 
If you are talking about these two specific brushes (g22 and g25), that may be the case - that the air cap remains the same between them. On most of the other brushes that I have experience with, the air cap is part of the conversion (in size).

I think in this case the same situation, cap is still the same. Now I'm experimenting with some other chinese brush and still air cap is the same for 0.2, 0.25 and 0.3mm setups, only size of the nozzle's hole changes and the needle's taper certainly. It starts to change only for 0.5mm setup.
At least it was in my experience.

All my HP range japanese brushes have different size of cap's holes, moreover different size of the air caps so they are not interchangeable (air caps only). It's Eclipse and Micron series have the same air cap's threads so can be interchanged on one AB body and as you say as conversion part for every setup. Maybe H&Ss have the same threads for all air caps sizes with different size holes for every setup, more likely the do if looking at their AB sets and parts, but I had no H&Ss, so can not say for sure about them. But we were asked about chinese ABs:)
 
From what I can find, where the G22 and G25 are offered together, the G22 is listed as having a .3 tip size, the G25 a. 2. Those "point 3" or "point 2" numbers indicate nozzle opening size, and will generally indicate which one will paint a fatter or thinner line. The higher the number the larger the paint flow... I am pretty sure that the head pieces on those brushes are interchangeable, and you should be able to switch the pieces. Now, here is the thing - I can not swear, as those brushes are of an inexpensive nature, but - Generally, when you change the nozzle size, like going from a .2 to .3, you also need to switch to a .3 needle, and .3 air cap.
Ok great thx for the info. Yeah they were a gift just to get me into the hobby but I can see that I like it even more so than I thought I would so I will be upgrading very soon. I was told the iwata hp-cs would be a really great brush as it is very forgiving and it would be good for what I want to use it for which is rc helicopters and illustrations. Would you agree on that recomendation?
 
I was told the iwata hp-cs would be a really great brush as it is very forgiving and it would be good for what I want to use it for which is rc helicopters and illustrations. Would you agree on that recomendation?

Th Eclipse (in one configuration or another) is probably the airbrush I recommend most often to those just starting out. They are rock solid, perform with a wide variety of paints, and with a minimum of fuss - are built well enough to take the abuse of someone just learning. On the other hand, they offer performance that a seasoned pro can easily take advantage of - making it a great all around brush.
 
Back
Top