First impression procon boy ps-270 Mr. Hobby GSI Creos

Original CM-SB or the V2? I think you have an older head assembly there. The air caps are identical on the GSI PS770 head and all of the Iwata heads I have here.
I sort of had an inkling about that , since It's the v2 stuff these seem to resemble most, but I was way out of my depth to try and phrase that and wasn't even sure if there was an sb original and sbv2
The v2's would have the little letters after japan right?
 
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looking again, are you sure that bottom air cap is not from Olympos? Only the .23 air caps now have the line cut around the circumference on the air cap on the Iwata (like the GSI head). The .18's are smooth sided. Either or (Olympos cap or .23) would explain why your Micron is not working real well with low pressure.

second down is the Iwata, one under is the GSI both .18's - crown cap on the GSI is from another brush.
23131700_1288914554547463_5810853386291686763_n.jpg
 
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Strictly Armchair input on my part because I don;t have all this to play with so take it as you will but
Here's a GSI aircapGSI.png I count 4-5 threads

Here's a CM-b/sb aircapUntitled 5.pngI count 4-5 threads

Here's another Iwata micron aircapIwata.png I count 7-8 threads


Why the differences is beyond me but I definitely can understand how daves micron head is identical to the GSI while @mike k 's head has a difference.

I'm curious to see what you guys figure out but it looks like we're all headed towards the same page here. :)
 
Iwata made several changes to the Micron(s) several years back - if trying to compare old to new, I suspect you will find plenty of minor differences. I've been looking at new vs. new.
 
no idea whats going on there but the box actually also says campbell hausfield, some kinda wierd pairup maybe. Iwata marketing a cheap campbell for the low dollar segment in japan maybe?
also looks like a badger knockoff so..... it's all mixed up whatever it is.
If I had to guess I'd say it has more in common with a harbor freight deluxe than anything
Even the fact that the tube on the cup is straight which puts it at an odd angle when installed in the brush, and the little holder it comes with is identical to a harbor freight.
 
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Actual Iwata is sort of a relative term though since whatever they actually put their name on kind of fits the bill since they dont actually claim to make most of their own stuff.
Given the campbell hausfield name on their though, i'd bet it's made in china
 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Anest-Iwat...152264594635?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10

Any of you guys think that thing is an actual Iwata made in Japan?
I never said or remotely suggested that. I am talking about a GSI Creos PS770 in comparison to Iwata. Now, the fact that Iwata and C&H have a partnership, I will say it is likely a genuine box, and a brush branded for Anest. You know, kind of like the NEO is marketed as "For Iwata"... Try comparing apples to apples, and stop looking for an orange to throw in the mix, and you will be better served .
 
Iwata made several changes to the Micron(s) several years back - if trying to compare old to new, I suspect you will find plenty of minor differences. I've been looking at new vs. new.
Hmm ok you have a point, i didnt upgrade my iwata cm sb, just updated then
 
Hmm ok you have a point, i didnt upgrade my iwata cm sb, just updated then
I suspect this is why you also had difficulties with the L3 head... Instead of trying to put it on the SB, you should try mounting on the PS770.
 
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Then this whole mix up is 100 percent my fault, i apologize thats the only difference i saw, so dave im on your side,
 
Then this whole mix up is 100 percent my fault, i apologize thats the only difference i saw, so dave im on your side,
no worries - we will eventually get everything all sorted out :) I will mention that I do not just throw comments out, I have to be able to show what I have that leads to the conclusion or observation. Had I seen, or known you were dealing with an older Iwata head, I could have pointed it out up front - so, I am glad you got the pictures thing sorted out. Helps keep the pages flat:thumbsup:

not sure you saw the comment I edited into an earlier post - you should try the Olympos head on the PS770. Think it will fit no problem
 
Then this whole mix up is 100 percent my fault, i apologize thats the only difference i saw, so dave im on your side,
I could easily see myself doing the same thing. I just tend to trust Dave because I've seen how careful he is. Awesome to see you guys on the same page.
 
no worries - we will eventually get everything all sorted out :) I will mention that I do not just throw comments out, I have to be able to show what I have that leads to the conclusion or observation. Had I seen, or known you were dealing with an older Iwata head, I could have pointed it out up front - so, I am glad you got the pictures thing sorted out. Helps keep the pages flat:thumbsup:

not sure you saw the comment I edited into an earlier post - you should try the Olympos head on the PS770. Think it will fit no problem
The olympos head fits no problem on my iwata and 770, i bought it from frank but it came with a .23mm head but the threads were just as long as my old iwata head for the l3 olympos head, so when i was comparing my iwata head i was going nuts because they had the same amount of threads as each other except for the procon boy, so i thought they did something new and i just found an upgrade, but anyways i got the olympos head to work, i put the 770 .18mm nozzle cap on it, but i dont think i like it to much, i might just get rid of it, brand new .23mm nozzle and needle also, idk atkeast it works and i know i did get stiffed, i been going crazy with that thing for awhole and to be honest these little tiny parts we are talking about are expensive and some times you cant buy them when you need them you may ha e to wait, but i actually might get the kustom sb head, the nozzle cap is different and i like that its easier to put beeswax on that to secure the fit, i think
 
The olympos head fits no problem on my iwata and 770, i bought it from frank but it came with a .23mm head but the threads were just as long as my old iwata head for the l3 olympos head, so when i was comparing my iwata head i was going nuts because they had the same amount of threads as each other except for the procon boy, so i thought they did something new and i just found an upgrade, but anyways i got the olympos head to work, i put the 770 .18mm nozzle cap on it, but i dont think i like it to much...

Out of all the heads, the Olympos 1 hole, S3, L3, Iwata Micron(old and new), and the PS770, my least favorite is the L3, based on performance I get out of all of them. I am pretty sure Frank (and Pacific Airbrush) were only bringing the .23's in in any kind of numbers. When I was looking for the .18's, they referred me to Japan to get them.

If you check the actual length of the threaded boss on all the heads, they should all be the same length. The Procon has less physical threads because they use a relief cut rather than threading to a shoulder.
 
So today I got this nifty little microscope that attaches to my phones camera.
Here are a couple of nozzle caps shot with a macro. GSI on the right, Chinese on the left. If you're lucky you can see this much and maybe a bit more detail than this with the naked eye. You can of course tell the hole in the aircap on the chines one is a bit rougher and maybe a bit out of round. Otherwise they don't look too terribly different quality wise
IMG_20171113_125525.jpg

Here are the two nozzle caps at somewhere between 30 and 100X depending whether you're on a phone or computer.
IMG_20171113_123559.jpg IMG_20171113_123857.jpg
Now you can see exactly how rough the machining was that took place on the chinese part despite the chrome plating, and that the hole is kind of an egg shape. Typical of simply drilling it with a twist drill bit. It looks like they do a tapered reem from behind but the ange is very obtuse and doesnt match the nozzle. and whatever they do it still retains the egg shape from the drill bit in the front.

On the GSI you still see the surface is essentially flawless, the hole is pretty round, likeley reamed. Probably took three steps to make this hole, drill, tapered reem from behind with a reemer thet closely matches the nozzle angle, then chamfer with a countersink. The only real imperfection on this looks to me like where the countersink started and stopped. Theres some room to make it more perfect but not a lot.
I've got some needle shots and nozzle to cap shots i'll post here in a few.
 
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