Hello fellow airbrush artists / first post

[Leeman]

Hello and Hello and thanks for thanks the welcome Anneliesje ....

Being serious is ...... erm serious ...... being crazy is .....who says I'm crazy !!! twitch twitch .....losing it !!!!! LOOSING IT!!!!!!! .......Deep breath... think nice thoughts ..... ignorance is bliss

 

[Squishy]

just who is this monkey josh i keep hearing about??

I vaguely remember someone like that...I think....maybe I dreamt it.......Maybe he's a Yeti! A mythical figure, a bit ape like, that people swear they have seen, but no one can proove???

 

[jgny1]

More people have seen Big Foot than have seen the monkey man lately..

 

[Leeman]

OOOOOOH !!! josh wont like that ....... we are talkin about seamonkey here are we ? .....

 

[Leeman]

Distancing.... I've found myself being more distant lately...... ...... ....... ...... ....... ...... ...... ..... but yes I've started to distance my brush hand with my fingers bent nails resting and just straighten my fingers as I require more or less detail etc , just wish my rebellious wicked would play nice.... I think my rooms too cold , I'm gonna get a room thermometer to check the room is at least 70 degrees and scuff my acetate with 800....

 

[Leeman]

JG Can you tell about the krome needle covers.... I'm using .3 needle .... I put the prongless tip picker cover on with it even though it was packaged with the .2 needle tip... are they interchangeable ? it has worked for a while but I've been having terrible tip drying probs lately.. also why is there lag when typing on this forum , is it just me ,

 

[shadow2462]

Hey Leeman in regards to the nozzle question... If you want to change p size you need to change both the needle and nozzle for the correct size. They need to be matched .2 nozzle/ needle and same for the .3 set up.
As for the typing issues you can try a different browser or go to your forum settings and change from the WYSIWYG to the standard.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Leeman]

thanks for replying shadow ..... just changed the settings and the text flying along now / the nozzles..... does this mean that or the .3 needle I need to use the nozzle with the 2 prongs on it because if so I'm going to chop them off with my dremmel . tip cleaning isn't helped with those on and I'll get closer to my surface ..... what did you mean by p size

 

[shadow2462]

Each needle is a specific taper and is matched to a specific nozzle size. It can be difficult to have the correct needle and nozzle pair if they get mixed up, some brands like badger and iwata will usually have notches on the shaft near the back. Badger uses 1 notch for .2 and 2 notches for the .3 however the nozzles are not so it is important to keep your sets together or marked in some way so you can know what is what. I'm not sure what brand you have but is the thing to do no matter which. If they do get mixed up you could gently slide a nozzle onto needle, the larger nozzle won't go as far onto point as far as a smaller ( more taper) (fine) needle. Hope this helps


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Leeman]

this might help.... I've been calling the spray regulator the nozzle , my mistake really sorry for the confusion.... what I meant to have said is I have been using the .2 flat/no prongs R042 SPRAY REGULATOR ! not nozzle with the .3 needle and tip set up which came with the spray regulator WITH the prongs (protective arms) , could this be giving me flow problems , so sorry for my persistence and thank you for your patience Shadow .....

 

[shadow2462]

this might help.... I've been calling the spray regulator the nozzle , my mistake really sorry for the confusion.... what I meant to have said is I have been using the .2 flat/no prongs R042 SPRAY REGULATOR ! not nozzle with the .3 needle and tip set up which came with the spray regulator WITH the prongs (protective arms) , could this be giving me flow problems , so sorry for my persistence and thank you for your patience Shadow .....

You havn't said what brand paint used, or what you are painting... tee shirts, canvas, cars ect.
createx is mainly for tee shirts and other textiles, create illustration obviously for just that, then you have Createx Wicked, and Createx Wicked detail which can be used for anything. There is Etac, Comart, Auto air, ect. I can tell you this...if using Wicked and a .2 set up on anything but fabric, start with a 3:1 reduction and 15-20 PSI and slowly reduce more and lower pressure as needed until you get the flow you want. This is not a simple issue, there are too many factors that will create different situations.

3:1 reduction = 3 reducer / 1 paint (drops)

*** sorry forgot this... the horned regulator is the same as the non horned, the prongs keep you from bending/breaking you needle tip. The flat regulator allows you to get all but touching your surface for super tight detail.

 

[Leeman]

That opens a can O worms shadow ..... I am using wicked black and w100 mixed 1 paint 3 reducer and the .3 set up on my krome , not using wicked AIRBRUSH Colours black ( which I have been told is transparent ?) I have had bad flow probs lately. I was set to about 30 psi and varying the air using my inline air regulator . I've been getting 10-15 seconds flow then spitting then flooding at lower air pressures, so I up the pressure a bit but that increases the chance of spidering and tip dry is increased . I've got a sheet of acetate and drawn a design on the back to follow from the undrawn side and it means I can wipe of when I make mistakes , still developing skills..... I had a feeling the room temp was wrong , too cold , so I just got a thermometer to be sure I am at 70 degrees at least to eliminate that element but it doesn't seemed to have helped much. So I bought some w500 performance reducer and tried it tonight with mixed results and I've found it dries quite quick and is harder to wipe off when it dries... so the headache goes on, all this sounds a bit complicated and really its just paint and it should be reduced and flow, I didn't use to have these problems but just lately I seem to be off track with it and will be much relieved once this is worked through....

 

[shadow2462]

Actually the Wicked Colors is opaque ...Wicked Detail is transparent. As much as we wish there could be, there is no way to totally eliminate tip dry completely. what you have to remember is this, lower PSI and the more you reduce the quicker paint will dry. Once sprayed Wicked is not erasable, if you use transparent very lightly you can erase slightly but not recommended. Keep in mind also even if you get it to flow just right today...tomorrow it may not even though you did everything the exact same way...very finicky. Unfortunately there is no easy fix, it just takes a world of patience and perseverance. Another option is try a different brand, they say Etac is awesome with no reduction just use from bottle.

 

[Leeman]

wicked colour black is opaque, my mistake.... I will invest in some wicked detail asap I guess that might help. I've learned a few good pointers here and I understand well that patience is essential, perseverance will pay off in the end and I'll progress , happier days. It does get wearing having the same problem bite you day after day but no pain no gain . Thanks very much again for your input, It all ads up shadow.... talk again soon .....

 

[Melbee]

wicked colour black is opaque, my mistake.... I will invest in some wicked detail asap I guess that might help. I've learned a few good pointers here and I understand well that patience is essential, perseverance will pay off in the end and I'll progress , happier days. It does get wearing having the same problem bite you day after day but no pain no gain . Thanks very much again for your input, It all ads up shadow.... talk again soon .....

To be honest Leeman, I totally agree with Shadow that you should get a DIFFERENT brand of paint. Wicked is known for being difficult to spray, even the Wicked Detail. As you are learning I would suggest you try Com-Art transparent paints or Set G which is a 10 bottle set of 5 opaques and 5 transparent for £23.99. You can spray them straight from the bottle or reduce with distilled or bottled water (not tap water). The transparents are the easiest to spray and you will get little tip-dry and be able to concentrate on your technique. Be warned though the Com-Art Opaque white and black are bad for tip-dry so stick to the Transparents at first.

Etac is brilliant but more expensive.

You can order individual 30ml bottles of Com-Art for £3.50 from Airbrushes.com which is a UK supplier here's a link:- https://airbrushes.com/index.php?cPath=4_25&sort=2a&page=3&osCsid=9ea1fd3cfa209991d8d6c14928a01ca0 The Transparent Smoke would be a great one to practise with and won't break the bank balance.

Once you've got your airbrush skills down and your feeling more confident, you can go back to the Wicked and mess around with the Reduction and psi levels. But when you are learning this will only frustrated you, believe me I've been there.
Cheers Mel

 

[Leeman]

Hi Mel , quite a coincidence you contacting, I was the guy asking you if you had any Daniel powers dvds recently , small world.... anyhow my skills aren't to bad, my daggers , script loops, fades lines are good , think my control is getting there, just wobbly lines when following designs but I get it sometimes if I don't over think and just go with the flow an light passes , I'm developing the minute sensitivity needed for detail and this is where the problems seem to have grown from. Trying to practice on acetate isn't the easiest thing to start either with either with spidering but I can wipe off with my small hand sponge and reducer if I make mistakes and try again. I used to use wicked without much trouble , flow seemed ok using w100 or w4011 which I understand is the same, but recently its been nothing but tip dry. I've just got some w500 and I'm gonna play around with that once I get my krome to stop leaking air at the iwata adapter, small cork seal washer failure. I'm putting the flow probs down to differing weather at the moment and I think my room has been too cold so I got a thermometer to be sure I was 70*. Once I get the air leak sorted I'll be back for round 2... also understanding transparent's flow much easier I thought getting some wicked detail black which if I understand what shadow said is transparent that should also improve things , time will tell... Thanks for the contact Mel

 

[Leeman]

hey shadow, just an update. I must apologise for probably giving you a headache with all that talk of nozzles and regulators recently but have realised that spray regulators are NOT interchangeable, the needle holes are different sizes and trying to use a .2 regulator with a .3 needle is useless as the hole restricts airflow ( using visual inspection it was obvious the holes were different sizes ). I also realise now that the badger supply pronged and tip nipper regulators for both sized needles as I discovered when I bought a replacement .3, that came with a pronged regulator , out of the box the krome I bought was supplied with the nipper for the .3....stupid newbie ignorance. I promise never to mention it again......

 

[Leeman]

Hey flycatcher, just going thru my posts and when we discussed reduction recently you mentioned using reducer and clear base, how does the clear base help with flow and tip dry with wicked colours, is it a vast difference to just using w100 ? have you used illustration base with wicked colours ? would that help, also I saw createx supply a retarder has anyone experimented with that ? a much needed knowledge update needed ...

 

[shadow2462]

hey shadow, just an update. I must apologise for probably giving you a headache with all that talk of nozzles and regulators recently but have realised that spray regulators are NOT interchangeable, the needle holes are different sizes and trying to use a .2 regulator with a .3 needle is useless as the hole restricts airflow ( using visual inspection it was obvious the holes were different sizes ). I also realise now that the badger supply pronged and tip nipper regulators for both sized needles as I discovered when I bought a replacement .3, that came with a pronged regulator , out of the box the krome I bought was supplied with the nipper for the .3....stupid newbie ignorance. I promise never to mention it again......

Don't be sorry for asking questions, we all are here to learn and then we help teach in return...it is the way we give back its basically "paying it forward". I apologize when I said that the pronged and the flush faced regulators are the same, I didn't specify that I meant for each needle / nozzle size (.2, .3, ect.) If I was able to help then cool, if not i'll try to do better next time.

 

[Leeman]

Hey ad fez , how's it flowin' , wonder if you can clarify something ..... 7th feb on my thread you asked who was this monkey josh ??? now I'm confused, the illusive, brilliant "seamonkey" from Chattanooga is not the guy "josh s.man" I was referring too when I spoke about practicing on glass. The josh I referred too was a talented baseball capped guy that did a wicked detail demo of a skull and wings and showed the painting on glass covered reference pic's practice thing. I've searched the forum members in J but he doesn't appear to be there, If you know who this guy is, his forum username could you let me know as I wanted to check his gallery , much thanks , Lee .......