Help! Eclipse HP-CS nozzle broken :(

Woodworkers mix beeswax with mineral oil to make something called "Sanding Sealer". I still have my 5 pounds and I'm still not sure what to do with it or what it's for actually, something to do with dust I think. It does make great AB thread sealer though.
 
I also removed that small nozzle on my brand new Iwata HP-CS. The small wrench came with the airbrush. :(

My question: There was some red stuff on the threads of the small nozzle and inside the larger part. I cleaned this off before I realized I wasn't supposed to separate these. Will the brush function OK without this red stuff?

And if I use beeswax, where would I put it? On the threads of the small nozzle?

Thanks.
 
I also removed that small nozzle on my brand new Iwata HP-CS. The small wrench came with the airbrush. :(

My question: There was some red stuff on the threads of the small nozzle and inside the larger part. I cleaned this off before I realized I wasn't supposed to separate these. Will the brush function OK without this red stuff?

And if I use beeswax, where would I put it? On the threads of the small nozzle?

Thanks.

Firstly, please, if you don't mind, head over to the intro section of this forum.

Secondly, you should never remove the steel tip from the brass base. It is much easier to clean it as a whole and if there is a problem with the nozzle, you replace the complete unit, not just the steel tip. You can toss that wrench. It has no place being in the box.
 
Yes, I surmised that from reading all the other posts. Nonetheless, I have removed it and removed the red stuff on the threads. So my questions still stand:

Will the nozzle function without that red stuff. If I used beeswax as a sealant, where should I apply it?
 
Yes, I surmised that from reading all the other posts. Nonetheless, I have removed it and removed the red stuff on the threads. So my questions still stand:

Will the nozzle function without that red stuff. If I used beeswax as a sealant, where should I apply it?

The "red stuff" you removed is special thread sealant and temporary fixative to ensure that the nozzle doesn't inadvertently work itself lose, assuming you haven't damaged the nozzle, and i fear you may have, the nozzle should be replaced with a similar type of sealant such "Loctite", I personally would just buy a new nozzle, the bees wax suggestion useless on this nozzle, it is handy only for the threads on the cap that holds the nozzle in place to stop it bubbling, I personally have have used it, if I get bubbles in that area I simply remove the cap and screw it on again finger tight. if you but a new nozzle, the nozzle arrives with the brass part already in place so don't have to do anything except drop it in your brush, hence the name "drop in nozzle";)

To save yourself from further damaging your brush, why not down load the schematic/blow up diagram of your specific brush, you can find these on Google images, it is better to understand first how your brush works and how to maintain it than just take it part without knowing what you are doing.
 
The red stuff is a sealer and prevents air getting in, and locks the two pieces together as one part. I have never tried it, but if you were going to use beeswax it should go on the threads. However those threads are delicate and on other brushes without the brass self centering drop in part, they can snap off quite easily. You don't want to put any stress in that area by applying too much wax, or by overtightening. If it works, I would still consider replacing it, and maybe keeping that one as a spare, as I'm not sure how it would hold up over time, and a gradual lessening of performance may occur. The most important area of a brush to be 100% clean is the nozzle, around 95% of newbie issues can be directly related to thinking the nozzle is clean (when you get to that point you think its clean, that's when you clean it again, just to make sure :D), and this could mean the wax needs replacing pretty often - having to take apart a piece that is meant to stay together, possibly fairly regularly, is going to damage/wear the threads, and it takes very little for a nozzle not to perform properly.

Also as a newbie, you want to know that your brush is in top condition, otherwise there is always a doubt as to whether it is gun performance or inexperience/incorrect techniques that is the issue. And if the brush isn't good to begin with, while you are new to airbrushing you may not realise what it's best performance should be. (I had to replace a nozzle once and I had a 'ah, now I remember what, it's supposed to be like' moment lol. Airbrushing has a steep learning curve, and it makes learning much easier knowing everything is right with the brush. :D
 
I ordered a new nozzle. I will keep this one as a backup with something like locktite as the sealer. Although I won't apply it until I need it.

Thank you all for the wonderfully informed replies.
 
I ordered a new nozzle. I will keep this one as a backup with something like locktite as the sealer. Although I won't apply it until I need it.

Thank you all for the wonderfully informed replies.

Your very welcome, as I said have look for the schematic for your brush and print it out, it's always a handy guide when ordering parts.

And your welcome to start your own threads when you need help, and we would love to see some of your models, we have a few modelers here, I started out airbrushing to paint RC planes and helicopters after fiber glass and foam repairs due to sometimes the ground would suddenly come up an dhit these models under the belly causing them to land prematurely and hard, sometimes even nose first:eek:
 
I ordered a new nozzle. I will keep this one as a backup with something like locktite as the sealer. Although I won't apply it until I need it.

Thank you all for the wonderfully informed replies.
Some have luck doing this and it is pure luck even if you have done this 1000 times , Most break the tiny threads off when reinstalling it and then it is junk .
http://www.coastairbrush.com/partsairbrush/eclipseparts.asp parts list for your HP-CS
Also if you have a Hobby Lobby in your area most of them carry nozzles and needle for the cs in both .35 and .5 sizes.
 
To follow up, I made darn sure both parts of the nozzle were clean of all previous adhesive and very well dried. I then put the loc-tite on an interdental brush, which I then used to apply the adhesive to the threads of the tiny nozzle end. I screwed it on, using the wrench to tighten it just a hair. I then flushed distilled water through it, to remove any excess loc-tite that may have leaked out. Then I blew compressed air through it, to dry it out. I let the reassemble nozzle sit for two whole days (the package says 24 hours to cure).

It works very well. Much better than the previous Master airbursh I had. I know this flies in the face of the everyone's wisdom...but I just had to try it. Besides, I'm just base coating miniatures, right now. I have the new nozzle, in case this one starts behaving poorly.
 
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