Help with scooter panel

[steveo017]

i really dont want to do it all again but i suppose thats all part of the learning...
thanks for your help though. This is why i want to go do a course at SMdesigns in ireland when i have the funds.

 

[Micha der Wolf]

Sometimes it hurts!
Is it for yourself then not so much, but when you work for a client then it hurts a lot.
Perhaps an inter-coat is a solution.

 

[jord001]

Looks like you had a lot of bleed under the tape edge which could have weakened the other colours but the black has come up where you haven't painted with the blue. That has me puzzled. It could be for the reasons Micha said. Are all of the paints the same brand? It could be that. Yes i would be using an intercoat clear to protect it.


Lee

 

[Phaze]

Is it possible that if there is too much paint and it is too thick that it would delaminate more then if it was a thin layer of paint?

 

[Squishy]

Is your primer specifically for plastic? Is your base properly dry. If the top layer dries, it can still be wet underneath which will cause paint to lift off. Even if it doesnt lift, you need to make sure its dry, or as soon as its cleared it will react.
Are you laying on the masking, then cutting the design direct on to the panel? It kind of looks like you have cut too deep into the layers below. If this has happened you need to make sure you use a new blade (which you need to do every time you do a job, and change frequently as needed) so that you can use the lightest pressure to cut without damaging the layer below.

 

[steveo017]

Sometimes it hurts!
Is it for yourself then not so much, but when you work for a client then it hurts a lot.
Perhaps an inter-coat is a solution.

It is not for me, and the guy is not even going to use it, he just had it lying around and said that he wants it painting and that he can show it at his Scooter club and i might get some people interested. He is in no rush for it either, so that is good for me.

 

[steveo017]

Looks like you had a lot of bleed under the tape edge which could have weakened the other colours but the black has come up where you haven't painted with the blue. That has me puzzled. It could be for the reasons Micha said. Are all of the paints the same brand? It could be that. Yes i would be using an intercoat clear to protect it.


Lee

All the white parts of the flag were masked up the whole time and i just covered the others when i was painting, the paints were Createx trans red and blue Auto air trans black and transparent base thats all i used.

 

[steveo017]

Is your primer specifically for plastic? Is your base properly dry. If the top layer dries, it can still be wet underneath which will cause paint to lift off. Even if it doesnt lift, you need to make sure its dry, or as soon as its cleared it will react.
Are you laying on the masking, then cutting the design direct on to the panel? It kind of looks like you have cut too deep into the layers below. If this has happened you need to make sure you use a new blade (which you need to do every time you do a job, and change frequently as needed) so that you can use the lightest pressure to cut without damaging the layer below.

The primer was just an etching primer from Halfords and the white was Halfords ArtFX and i left that all for a week or so before starting the flag.
i didnt cut the masking on the panel, i used a blue fineline tape from halfords to do the edges and then filled with normal masking but i detaked the hell out of it. I sanded the white with 600 grit and after spraying the shadows i left it for about an hour and even went over with a heat gun to make sure, i tried a piece of tape on it then left that on for about an hour and that came off with no paint lifting so i thought it was ready to do the rest...

 

[steveo017]

well i have sanded it all down back to the white again with 600 grit, so now should i get another can of that Halfords artFX or what white spray can would you guys suggest?

 

[Micha der Wolf]

Auto-AirColors have a great site with all informations you need, a lot of video stuff! Example AutoBorne Sealer White
I prefer the professional products of Glasurit. So I have more experience.

 

[jord001]

The I wouldn't use the halfords white again. The auto air autobourne sealer white is probably your best bet as you will be using AA over the top. there should be no reaction at all.

Lee

 

[steveo017]

Thanks for all the advice, i think its time i have to invest in a big compressor and a spray gun and then use Autoborne sealer...

 

[Cpt.Nemo]

I use a super light layer of clear when I'm worried about pealing off paint. Also that etching primer layer looks super thick to me but I'm not sure if I'm right in saying that. I spray an extremely thin layer on, just a dust coat. But that's bare metal. I tried full coverage with 3 layers and it peels right off, so for the spray can stuff I use, dust coat is the key.


Sent from iPhone

 

[steveo017]

I use a super light layer of clear when I'm worried about pealing off paint. Also that etching primer layer looks super thick to me but I'm not sure if I'm right in saying that. I spray an extremely thin layer on, just a dust coat. But that's bare metal. I tried full coverage with 3 layers and it peels right off, so for the spray can stuff I use, dust coat is the key.


Sent from iPhone

The primer coat and the white is fine that doesnt lift or scratch off at all, the problem is the paint that im putting on after the white that keeps lifting when I pull the masking off.

 

[steveo017]

I wonder if a coat of trans base over the white would work or even a coat of clear lacquer spray can( thats all I have ATM) and then sanded to take the shine off to give some tooth for the paint.

 

[Squishy]

Rather than paint it and be disappointed if it doesn't work, do you have a spare panel or something you can do some tests on. Devide it into areas and try a different method in each one, see which works best, then clear it too to make sure there is no reactions etc.

 

[steveo017]

Rather than paint it and be disappointed if it doesn't work, do you have a spare panel or something you can do some tests on. Devide it into areas and try a different method in each one, see which works best, then clear it too to make sure there is no reactions etc.

I was just about to pm you about this, I will try on a piece of this panel on the part where the silver mesh goes and if it does work out i can just sand it back and do the whole panel again.

 

[steveo017]

but i think i do need to invest in a big compressor and spray gun to get the best results, the spray cans are all i can afford ATM though...

 

[Squishy]

Which spray cans are you using? Spraymax is a really good option. It is a 2K clear, and you activate it and the hardener mixes in the can. It needs to be used pretty much right away as it only has a 24 hr life after activation. Coast Airbrush in the US actually import it and recommend it as the best alternative to a spray gun. It polishes up like glass too. It would take 3 or 4 cans for a bike depending on the size and number of panels, but for a tank two mudguards and a couple of small side panels that should do 3 coats (the first coat being a dust coat).

 

[steveo017]

Which spray cans are you using? Spraymax is a really good option. It is a 2K clear, and you activate it and the hardener mixes in the can. It needs to be used pretty much right away as it only has a 24 hr life after activation. Coast Airbrush in the US actually import it and recommend it as the best alternative to a spray gun. It polishes up like glass too. It would take 3 or 4 cans for a bike depending on the size and number of panels, but for a tank two mudguards and a couple of small side panels that should do 3 coats (the first coat being a dust coat).

Yeah i was going to use Spraymax to clear coat when finished, but i have a cheap lacquer from work that i want to put over the white and see if the paint sticks to that (I will do a little piece first before doing the whole panel though)