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Hockey goalie mask

Discussion in 'Beginners Airbrush Questions!' started by Blackthorne, Oct 3, 2014.


  1. Blackthorne

    Blackthorne Gravity Guru

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    Hi guys!

    I've look for some advice for painting a friend goalie mask! I know, I need an "high impact clear"... My interogations is most for the prep!

    Any advice for "how to" and primer/clear brands you recommended to me? The only clear I know is Tamco High Impact clear ( from maple airbrush supplies ).

    Sanding grit, adhesion promoter, plastic primer <=== ???

    Thanks for any advices and/or existing link on the forum !
  2. Blackthorne

    Blackthorne Gravity Guru

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    Nobody have paint a goalie helmet?!

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  3. JTairbrush

    JTairbrush Gravity Guru

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    What kind of mask? Fiberglass or polycarbonate? I've cleared many goalie masks with Nason clear and never had a problem. If its a fiberglass mask, scuff and clean it well, then paint. If you're using Auto Air, spray a coat of Sealer white or dark first.
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  4. Blackthorne

    Blackthorne Gravity Guru

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    Its a plastic mask ... so probably polycarbonate? Do you use a primer or any adhesion promoter before paint? And yes i use aa and wicked

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  5. Immortal Concepts

    Immortal Concepts Detail Decepticon!

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    Imron is the most durable clear, it's made for boats and can take a direct hit to a loading dock and not scratch. That's what i used on my masks when I used to play and took many direct hits. I'm not a fan of Nason personally it's a cheap clear and have seen yellowing over a few year period, but irrelevant to a helmet but durability is iffy.
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2014
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  6. Blackthorne

    Blackthorne Gravity Guru

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    Imron from DuPont or it's a brand name?

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  7. Immortal Concepts

    Immortal Concepts Detail Decepticon!

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    Yeah its by dupont
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  8. Blackthorne

    Blackthorne Gravity Guru

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    Ok ty :)

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  9. MeeshellMP

    MeeshellMP Goddess Queen of carts Mod

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    I used sand paper, primer (or Createx Auto Borne sealer), sand lightly, degreaser/wax remover, then paint.
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  10. JTairbrush

    JTairbrush Gravity Guru

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    I've painted a lot of polycarbonate masks, mostly Bauer NME-3's, and I clean it really well with wax and grease remover, then windex, then scuff really well with a red scotchbrite pad until all the shine is gone. Clean again with wax and grease remover and tack cloth. Spray a coat of sealer dark or white. Denib the sealer with 1000 grit to make it smooth. now do your airbrush work. As far as clear coat, I've never had a complaint or return when using the Nason clear. I have many metal panels that I've painted and cleared with Nason and haven't noticed any yellowing. I use the Nason because its inexpensive and it holds up very well to impacts from the pucks and buffs to a glass-like shine. On a car, I'd probably use something with a little better UV resistance, but that's not a concern on goalie masks. I'm sure the Tamco clear will work well as its made for these types of applications, but I believe its rather expensive. If cost is not a concern. Go for the Tamco. Btw, most likely the back plate is not polycarbonate. On the Bauer NME-3, its polyethylene, which needs some special prep to get the paint to stick. Check the inside of the back plate and see if there is a small imprint with something like "HDPE". That means high density polyethylene. Let me know and I'll help you out with that.
    As far as using Imron, I know it works really well for boats since here on Long Island we're surrounded by water and there are boats everywhere and I've been boating for 30 years. Actually, most of the boat yards here have gone to Awlgrip for hull refinishing as they seem to like it better. I know Formula boats still uses Imron on their hulls and that's a very expensive boat. I just think a clear coat made specifically for automotive type applications would be better here, but do what you think works best for you.
  11. Immortal Concepts

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    Yeah I'm sure the Nason works fine, i use it a lot on cheapskate customers and only warranty it for 1 year. I do have to add I mostly paint pull trucks and race boats so durability is a must and imron has never failed me. Nason has had a lot of issues for me with any kind of direct hit or flex and it cracked right off. I think that is related more to the physical stock of nason. Some cans sit for a long time and don't get rotated enough. Imron is pretty expensive so as far as cheap clear coats go then yes nason is the best choice.
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2014
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  12. TwinbrotherStudio

    TwinbrotherStudio Triple Actioner

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    1. To get good adhesion, you need a good sanding. Start off with about 250 grit and lightly sand, but get all the surface nicely scuffed. Lightly sand because you don't want deep sanding grooves. Finish off the sanding with 400 grit to get it a little smoother.

    2. At this point, you have to decide if you want a good base or just move on to the graphics. You can apply a primer sealer, then white base coat, and then a medium clear coat. You have to resand the clear coat with 400 grit for your graphics work. I've painted graphics directly on the sanded surface before and if you sand it well, the adhesion will be good.

    3. If you skip the primer sealer, basecoat, clearcoat step above, you can paint directly on the sanded 400 grit mask. Benefit of skipping step "2" is the helmet is lighter. Downside is, the primer sealer acts like a glue for the basecoat clearcoat. It's your call on this one.

    4. I suggest Createx paints for the graphics. I used to paint motorcycle helmets and Createx paints are very good for graphics. I don't suggest the auto air paints and they lay down thicker than the standard acrylic line of paints.

    5. After your graphics, wipe down the helmet with automotive cleaning solvent. This takes off any grease from the helmet.

    6. Spray on automotive grade adhesion promotor. It's a clear spray for the helmet. After that flashes, spray on a catalyzed automotive grade clear coat. It must be catalyzed. Any uncatalyzed clear coat will not be as durable as catalyzed clear coat. I've used Sherwin Williams, Dupont, and House of Kolor clears. When I was painting helmets, the Dupont clear laid down really smooth. House of Kolor clears have a yellow tint in it, but I never noticed any coloring after applying onto graphics. Sherwin Williams is a little cheaper line. Two or three medium coats should be enough for protection. You can apply one extra one if you plan on sanding and polishing later.

    Hope that helps.
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  13. Blackthorne

    Blackthorne Gravity Guru

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    You spray the adhesion promoter AFTER the airbrush ??? In my mind it is a primer?
  14. TwinbrotherStudio

    TwinbrotherStudio Triple Actioner

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    Yes, after the graphics. Adhesion promoter is a type of primer, but not like primer surfacer or primer sealer. It's clear and acts like a glue for the clear. However, do not spray it on thick. Because it is solvent based, it can wrinkle the water based acrylic. I've made that mistake before. Any solvent based liquid can attack any type of paint if sprayed on too thick. Start with a light medium coat and put on another light to medium coat. After it flashes, lay on the clear same way, a few light medium coats and then one final wet coat.
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  15. Blackthorne

    Blackthorne Gravity Guru

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