Hvlp sprayguns

[Draxden]

I wasn't sure if I should put this in this section or not. However, im always having the worst time with the color white, as most do. I've been thinking it would be easier to get a hvlp gun strictly for whites, clear costs eventually. A few of my controller designs require I lay white over the entire controller first. An airbrush just doesn't give me the coverage I need easy enough.

Anyway, I was just curious if anyone knows much about them? Such as do I need to buy a whole new hose for my compressor, can I buy an adapter, do I need a heavy duty compressor? General questions like that. Thanks in advance.

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[JackEb]

can you provide a bit more info ?
what compressor do you currently have, and what paint are you using that you are having trouble with.

depending on what compressor you currently have you may need to get a 'workshop' style compressor. Once you have decided on which spray gun to get the specifications with tell you what airflow it needs as a minimum, don't use it with a compressor that states that number as a maximum (or even close) and the gun will possibly have fittings for a regular size airhose, not the 1/8" that the airbrushes use.

eg: iwata LPH80 states between 50-60L/min, so you would ideally source a compressor that will produce ~100 l/m to stop it running constantly and overheating.

As for using it now for white and later for clear coat, I strongly advise you buy a separate gun and use it solely for clear, the last thing you want is that random smudge of white showing up on your freshly painted dark blue controller, even though you thoroughly cleaned the gun. . .
I have a 'specialist' airbrush strictly for pearls/metalics...... I had a random spurt of 'glitter' turn up on a dark background... after the brush had been 'cleaned' several times...... not happy !!

 

[Draxden]

Mine is a very small air compressor. 1/6 hp. That I got with a kit when I first started airbrushing. The hvlp gun I was going to be buying was a starter that comes with two guns. So I would definitely be using one for white and one for clear.

But the paint im having troubles with is the autobourne sealer, I can't seem to avoid orange peel with it. I contacted the manufacturer, and they assured me it can be run through a .5 airbrush using the high performance reducer. Along with the orange peel it also dries so fast in the cup, it's like I've left paint in there for a few hours.

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[JackEb]

my understanding is that orange peel effect is usually caused by operator error, eg, incorrect reduction, incorrect spray gun setup spraying at an angle other than perpendicularly, or applying excessive paint.
first coat should always just be a mist coat. allow to dry thoroughly before applying subsequent layers.

here is the current reduction ratios... as recommended by the manufacturer take note of the comments for use in excessive heat/humidity, you may be using to much reducer and its drying to fast


Check the airgun manufacturer for the airflow requirements.

 

[Draxden]

I am positive that it's operator error, because I can't seem to get an even coat with how small of an area gets paint at once. With regular colors im usually ok. My problem is always white. So I figured wider fan patter , would help with the even layers. I could do thin layers and have it even.

With the mixing ratios, it actually says what you highlighted on the side of the bottle. Unless im reading it incorrectly. 25% would be say 8 drops paint 2 drops reducer right? Because when I tried that it was having a hard time coming out of the airbrush unless I pulled the needle all the way back.


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[JackEb]

as per above.

"ideal temp is 70F - 75F . EG 80F+ then you may likely need to increase the amount of reducer:"​

anything above / below 'ideal' you need to adjust the reduction accordingly. even with non sealer paint the reduction changes depending on the weather. Its a constant juggling act. all just trial and error.

what sort of distance are you spraying from, maybe you need to back up a bit.

I know one of the members here does controllers, i'll see if I can find out who it was and tag them to join in.

@Mr.Micron may be able to help a bit more here.

 

[markjthomson]

Yup, orange peel is definitely operator but you won't be making it easy using an airbrush for larger areas. It is a combination of speed of pass and reduction of paint, and knowing how much paint to lay on that it flows out and not run... a fine line... A fan will help and doing it in layers.

 

[Airbrush Dreams]

It seems everyone has the orange peel situation under control. As for buying the spray guns I would check what the CFM eater for these begins and the check what your compressor is able to give. Even my 2 horse craftsmen pancake compressor can't keep up with my HVLP 101. My great White Shark can't even keep up at all. I actually don't even use it anymore. I would be willing to trade this gun for a Custom Micron SB b2 if any are interested.


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[Squishy]

I think a mini hvlp will suit your needs, I think a full size gun would be a bit overkill for controllers. But again, these guns use a lot more air than you might think, so check the cfm.

Orange peel happens when paint starts to dry before/as it hits the surface, so you may be able to cure the issue by changing your mix/air ratios and distance from surface. Or if due to conditions by adding some 4020. 4030 is a mix additive which helps the paint emulsify, this may also help.

 

[Draxden]

That's what I was thinking. It's mostly just for white. I can't seem to get an even coat. However with that. I have the same problem with regular wicked white. For a .5 airbrush shooting at 35 psi what would a good mix ratio be for just the regular wicked white? If I did say 10 drops of paint. Using the high performance reducer.

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[JackEb]

always shoot a practice piece, always start with the recommended reductions from the manufacturer. (between 10-20% for wicked)

disposable plastic plates are good test pieces for spraying on plastic.
if you're not getting a smooth coat then start the PSI at 25, increase gradually until its atomising properly. the thinner the paint the less psi you need.

As @Squishy said, there is no magic recipe, Just what works on the day

 

[Airbrush Dreams]

always shoot a practice piece, always start with the recommended reductions from the manufacturer. (between 10-20% for wicked)

disposable plastic plates are good test pieces for spraying on plastic.
if you're not getting a smooth coat then start the PSI at 25, increase gradually until its atomising properly. the thinner the paint the less psi you need.

As @Squishy said, there is no magic recipe, Just what works on the day

Exactly and what works one day may not work as well the next due to humidity level and temperature. The wicked white I found very grainy when spraying into plastic or metal. I would reduce and then would have issues with coverage. I never had the patients to build it slowly. That's the main reason I switched to E'Tac PS; plus you can reduce with water. But that's just me. I love both paint systems.


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[Draxden]

Well I actually paint in doors. So I figured there would be a nice standard mix ratio. I don't have the patients to build the white slowly either. So what is e'tacs? Is it something I can use win combonation with wicked? I would much prefer to stick with water based. Not a big fan of toxic paint.

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[Leakyvalve]

Don't forget the G6 Iwata.

 

[jord001]

Etac' is another brand of paint which I like a lot although I have most of the other brands. I use a cheap 0.8 mini spray gun for any of the sealers. I cant get them to run through my airbrush well unless I add a lot of reducer.

Lee

 

[Squishy]

Well I actually paint in doors. So I figured there would be a nice standard mix ratio......

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Nope, too many variables sadly. The auto bourne sealer is ideal for this application, as it works great direct to plastic. You just need to get it dialled in, which to be fair you will have to do with any paint brand you use.

How are you applying it? You need to apply two coats. The first coat should be around 70% coverage, so you will still be able to see through it somewhat (for example if over black it will have a slight grayish look still), overlapping each pass to get even coverage. It is fast drying so around four - five inches or so from the surface should stop it drying before it hits. When it is completely dry the second coat can be added at 100%.

 

[Airbrush Dreams]

Well I actually paint in doors. So I figured there would be a nice standard mix ratio. I don't have the patients to build the white slowly either. So what is e'tacs? Is it something I can use win combonation with wicked? I would much prefer to stick with water based. Not a big fan of toxic paint.

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No don't mix the two systems of paint. Wicked doesn't play nicely with E'Tac. They are both water base paints, but Wicked has a small amount of solvent in it to help prevent tip dry. I am not sure what E'Tac act uses in the PS for a medium and catalyst for drying but it is not solvent based at all. All I do know is it is a pure acrylic medium to carry the pigment.


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[Draxden]

No don't mix the two systems of paint. Wicked doesn't play nicely with E'Tac. They are both water base paints, but Wicked has a small amount of solvent in it to help prevent tip dry. I am not sure what E'Tac act uses in the PS for a medium and catalyst for drying but it is not solvent based at all. All I do know is it is a pure acrylic medium to carry the pigment.


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Gotcha. That's good to know. I was looking into etac. I think until I can get something for laying paint smoother. Spray paint may be my only choice. Lol

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[Airbrush Dreams]

Gotcha. That's good to know. I was looking into etac. I think until I can get something for laying paint smoother. Spray paint may be my only choice. Lol

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A lot also depends on the air pressure your using. The higher pressure dries the paint faster and even dries it on the needle tip faster. The lower air pressure the paint will begin to stipple and not atomize correctly. Especially with a air gun rather than a brush. Yes you are spraying at lower pressure, but there is a greater volume of air coming out not to mention more paint because of the larger needle. Most air guns if I am not mistaken recommend 2 parts reducer to one part paint. With Wicked it would be the 4012 and with E'Tac it would be Distilled Water.

I have always wanted to get an Eclipse G3, but went and got an HVLP LPH-101. Now I don't even touch automotive stuff so it just sits here. Only been used six times.


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[Lt4-396]

A HVLP seems overkill for game controllers. Have you ever look into any airbrush that have the air cap/fan cap spray pattern. I know grex makes a very nice one as well as paasche and I think iwata does as well.

You can get roughly a 3 inch spray pattern using these so coverage of small/medium items will be easy with only a few passes.