I'm doing something wrong, but what?

IPT

Detail Decepticon!
This might be a little lengthy but I want to really make sure I cover everything I'm doing. My issue is I get inconsistent spray. Anything from skipping to a slight whistling, to inconsistent paint being sprayed even with the needle stop set the same. I also can get bubbling in the cup and I have several brushes so it’s not isolated. I think it' something other then my cleaning because sometimes my brushes spray pretty good.

Reduction was the first step but I can be totally reduced to where I’m getting spidering. It’ll start out spraying fine, then block up. Just recently (because of this) I am adding nylon stocking to all my paint tops (using mostly Wicked but just ordered some Illustration ink – already have white). The root of my issue has to be some blockage but from where and why?

I AB small pieces so rarely even have the cup ¼ full. I mix in the cup with a toothpick. Now that I think of it maybe I am knocking dried paint off the sides or bottom by doing this? Maybe I should just try a small brush?

Adding paint I just drip it in. I find with the Illustrator bottle paint can dry on the top. Also with the Wicked I get some dried build up around the opening. Do you guys clean the top every time you take paint from the bottle? Keep the bottle open or closed during painting?

Cleaning. With color changes I just spray out the paint (or dump if there is a lot). I put some water in, spray that out. Then a little reducer, spray that out. Then some reducer and the new color, mix with toothpick.

After every paint session I do the same as with color changes. Then I loosen the needle chuck and pull the needle part way out and back in to help get paint from the seal off. After I spray that out with some clean water added a few times I pour some Solvent based cleaner into the cup. I’ll use a paper towel to sop some up and wipe the inside of the cup. Usually I’ll turn the cup upside down and dump it out if I see a chunk of paint. I’ll draw the needle out and wipe it and the solvent off on a good paper towel. I’ll spray and solvent cleaner left out. To finish I’ll spray some water through it to get rid of the solvent (used to use restorer but solvent seems faster).

I find sometimes I can feel the needle not seating fully into the nozzle. Not the metal on metal I should feel. I’ve been taking off the nozzle and soaking it in Solvent A LOT lately. I always see something in the cup. I’ll let it soak 5, 10 some times 20 mins. I’ll agitate time to time too. Sometimes I’ll see bit of color. Sometimes just bits of milky white stuff. I’m never sure if that is just the wax I use on the threads or paint or what. I usually put just a dab of bees wax on the nozzle threads when I put it all back together. I use the wrench and just “snug” it down.

I think that cover is all. Now that I have typed this I’m wondering if it is my mixing method? I assume its normal to have some paint drying in the bottom of the cup during a painting session ,maybe I’m knocking some free. Since I paint such small pieces I really only add drops of paint at a time so it makes no sense to mix externally. I’ll waste more paint on the container sides then I probably would use painting!

Anyway, if something stands out to you from me to look at let me know. I know when my brushes sprays nicely I can tell, and it’s much more pleasurable to paint!
 
I would have to say that there are particles either blocking the nozzle as you are spraying from dryer paint in the ab body being picked up and then blocking or ,the nozzles even though they look clean ,actually they are not ,yes I have had this happen to myself as have others and it has always been the nozzle .
 
Ok Mate.
Your first paragraph was enough to explain your issue. Your Using Water Bourne's (Wicked). Which I have some experience with.
Good as the Paint is. You still have to keep on top of it. The older it gets the more issues you will find with this line of paint. Possible other too.

So First. If you paint is over 6mounths old. IT may actually be older.. Sitting on the shelf in store. One thing you can try is, to just use it up. Is reduce with water. It wont totally restore your paint flow, but will help. Fine line detail will still cause issues. So just blast it for back grounds.
Two: White will cause more problems then any other colour. (So far I have found).

That aside. You Issue here is actually paint build up inside your Nozzle. It may look clean looking inside, or by feel. But your performance indicates you just have a film of paint build up lining your Nozzle wall. In time if you paint with out your cap. You will actually see your Needle depth reduce from protruding out from your Nozzle.

Break down your Nose of the Brush and soak it all for an Hour or two in AA Restorer. Then Flush with clean water. Make sure this part is done thoroughly!!
Restorer residue left will cause your fresh paint to congeal, and cause massive blockage issues...... Ask me how I know!

Done right. Your brush will perform like new.

EDIT: Just caught your last bit of info. You do soak your Nozzle. What do you use? Just a small amount of colour tells me your cleaner isnt strong enough. AA restorer, will have chunks of crud falling out of your brush. And use a Tooth pick, Going gently and wiping the sides of your Nozzle wall. You will be shocked at what comes out.
Dont be afraid to soak Longer, and submerge the front of the brush up to the Cup. Dont go past the Trigger valve tho!

Dan
 
Bubbles in cup normally indicate a blockage/semi blockage. Which brush is it ?
I have a Iwata HPB+ That blocks every time I look at it, I know it's a bad combination of improper reduction/pressure so the day I get it figured out I'll be jumping for joy
 
Bubbles in cup normally indicate a blockage/semi blockage. Which brush is it ?
I have a Iwata HPB+ That blocks every time I look at it, I know it's a bad combination of improper reduction/pressure so the day I get it figured out I'll be jumping for joy

I had the same issue your talking about with the same brush, the solution is I put a tiny slither of Teflon tape around the nozzle to slightly move it forward and after a damn good clean my HP-BH now works as good as my Micron shooting E'tac efx at 3:1, 1 being paint, I can now get super fine lines and no tip dry.

I did a paint pal on Sunday with it and the whole day no problems.


Anytime I experience whistling it is usually the start of tip dry, or my dinner is ready;)
 
I'll check the nozzle again but I have soaked it in PPG's Omni Multi purpose solvent based cleaner (that I've used to clean my bigger guns) so I'm pretty sure that would eat anything in there. The restorer isn't better at removing water based paints then that, is it?

It can definitely change on the the fly. Starts out great and then sometimes (rarely) stays great. The paint is a little older as i don't paint with large quantities of paint. I was hoping the stocking/straining might negate any settling or dry stuff. As for adding water, wouldn't just over reducing it in the cup accomplish the same thing?

I did just order some Illustration paint. Will be interesting test if when I get it I only use that for a while.Then I can see if it's the paint itself or something else.

Thanks for the thoughts and input.
 
I had the same issue your talking about with the same brush, the solution is I put a tiny slither of Teflon tape around the nozzle to slightly move it forward and after a damn good clean my HP-BH now works as good as my Micron shooting E'tac efx at 3:1, 1 being paint, I can now get super fine lines and no tip dry.

I did a paint pal on Sunday with it and the whole day no problems.


Anytime I experience whistling it is usually the start of tip dry, or my dinner is ready;)

LOL, not tip dry. I can pull the needle out, clean it, and it doesn't always solve the issue, sadly :(.

Bubbles in cup normally indicate a blockage/semi blockage. Which brush is it ?
I have a Iwata HPB+ That blocks every time I look at it, I know it's a bad combination of improper reduction/pressure so the day I get it figured out I'll be jumping for joy

Biggest issues on the Micron, and an HP CH with a .2 nozzle. I posted a lot before thinking it was my reduction but sometimes, I do nothing different and it sprays like magic occurred. I find myself sometimes uping the pressure to get better flow but then I spider because it's too high. Then it'll spray great, then crap. rarely a quick blast will help.

It's for sure something blocking but where it's coming from and why it's so intermittent is eluding me.
 
i read that you said you pull your needle out?? it could have dried paint on the needle getting knocked off during removal after cleaning tip the needle residue when you put needle back in could be the issue....i dont use anything in my cup to mix with i back flush to mix and also when i clean my brush....i have never had to soak my nozzle... i will back flush rinse cup back flush rinse cup (dumping cup) 2-3 times then i spray cleaner and then rinse with water....i seen a video on badgers web site or youtube once on cleaning and havent had issues since i did it that way...but now that i posted this i will get jinked lol thats my luck...lol hope this helped... im sure there are many ways to clean a brush not saying im doing it right... good luck
 
LOL, not tip dry. I can pull the needle out, clean it, and it doesn't always solve the issue, sadly :(.



Biggest issues on the Micron, and an HP CH with a .2 nozzle. I posted a lot before thinking it was my reduction but sometimes, I do nothing different and it sprays like magic occurred. I find myself sometimes uping the pressure to get better flow but then I spider because it's too high. Then it'll spray great, then crap. rarely a quick blast will help.

It's for sure something blocking but where it's coming from and why it's so intermittent is eluding me.

LOL my comment was directed more at Jackie since she had the same problem as me with the same brush, although I am sure there is something in your nozzle or on the needle which comes loose after you start using it, it could be a tiny piece of cotton from a cotton on bud or something silly like that, if you know your brush is fine check your paint, often we blame the brush or ourselves when the paint can be at fault, some paints separate immediately in the cup, and not just brands but also specific colours.
 
I had the same issue your talking about with the same brush, the solution is I put a tiny slither of Teflon tape around the nozzle to slightly move it forward and after a damn good clean my HP-BH now works as good as my Micron shooting E'tac efx at 3:1, 1 being paint, I can now get super fine lines and no tip dry.

I did a paint pal on Sunday with it and the whole day no problems.


Anytime I experience whistling it is usually the start of tip dry, or my dinner is ready;)
Thought you would say the tea is done.:D
 
AutoAir Restorer was designed for AAs own line. If you have paint, As in Wicked or any other Createx dried paint in their. Regardless of age, Restorer will break it down. As said mate. It'll clean that brush like it was pulled out of the box yesterday.
Not just small discoloration.. It'll rip the excrement right out. :)

Over reducing wont solve the problem entirely. Maybe to a degree. But I find it just takes longer to cover. And you'll still battle tip dry. And still experience Blocking up. It often seems like its Magic. But working against you :)

A good test to try. Use strait water, and paint on a dry surface. Dial it down and go in for small tight lines. If you cant maintain a full set of loops or your signature. Its likely Paint blocking.

New paint will be a good test also.

Dan
 
I'll check the nozzle again but I have soaked it in PPG's Omni Multi purpose solvent based cleaner (that I've used to clean my bigger guns) so I'm pretty sure that would eat anything in there. The restorer isn't better at removing water based paints then that, is it?

It can definitely change on the the fly. Starts out great and then sometimes (rarely) stays great. The paint is a little older as i don't paint with large quantities of paint. I was hoping the stocking/straining might negate any settling or dry stuff. As for adding water, wouldn't just over reducing it in the cup accomplish the same thing?

I did just order some Illustration paint. Will be interesting test if when I get it I only use that for a while.Then I can see if it's the paint itself or something else.

Thanks for the thoughts and input.
if you are using water based paint you want to use Createx Restorer to soak the nozzle in .
I have found that most solvent based cleaner will just gum up water base paint causing more issues.
I have not had any issues with WICKED and the age of it being I still use from the test bottles I was sent from Createx when it first came out for testing.
Only way age can be an issue is if you do not re-close the cap after each use .
Your nozzle is clogged , Soak the nozzle for at least 15 minutes in Restorer , After 15 minutes of soaking remove it use the needle to press out all the stuff you thought you had gotten out and see how much of a difference it make
Basepaint made a really nice thread about this http://www.airbrushforum.org/thread...hat-was-still-in-the-brush.14250/#post-209197
 
Sorry Herb. But, they do indeed age. WICKED in my experience is no different. I keep my cap closed always to prevent spilling or forgetting its open and left over night. How often a Bottle is opened could be placed into the same category, I would bet.

Oxygen will age any paint. Artspray made an interesting Note once on the topic in that the Paint will last longer, the less air space is left in the Bottles.
As I only buy the smaller bottles. I cant add it to anything smaller. Just use it faster. But, that doesnt happen.
I could try the old Pinstripers trick and reduce the oxygen content by blowing in the bottle before closing the cap..... Hmm, Nah.

Dan
 
I used to mix in the a/b all the time. I am like you and only use a little paint at one time. I stopped doing it after i found it really didnt mix very well. I found these little glass bottles at the dollar store, and now I mix in these and then pour into my cup. It also helps when using the high performance (4012) reducer because you need to let it sit for 5 mins. I use popsicle (craft) sticks to mix with. These are also from the dollar store.
The jars have a little cork stopper that serves as a lid, and i can keep my paint for a couple days after i mix it. They are re-usable with a soak and a cleaning.
When i am painting, I will back flush once in awhile, just to keep the paint mixed and to keep crap out of the nozzle.
I found alot of issues i was having were gone after this
When I clean my brush, I dump any paint left back into the jar, or throw it out, fill half way with cleaner, back flush, dump, fill, back flush again then dump again. I then wipe the cup out. Then i spray some cleaner through, repeat then rinse with water. I very rarely have to pull the needle after doing it this way.
I also use restorer once in awhile to maintain the clean. It is amazing how much you get from the brush, even being careful when cleaning.

IMG-20151005-03413.jpg
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Cheers
 
Sorry Herb. But, they do indeed age. WICKED in my experience is no different. I keep my cap closed always to prevent spilling or forgetting its open and left over night. How often a Bottle is opened could be placed into the same category, I would bet.

Oxygen will age any paint. Artspray made an interesting Note once on the topic in that the Paint will last longer, the less air space is left in the Bottles.
As I only buy the smaller bottles. I cant add it to anything smaller. Just use it faster. But, that doesnt happen.
I could try the old Pinstripers trick and reduce the oxygen content by blowing in the bottle before closing the cap..... Hmm, Nah.

Dan
Odd due to I have never had an issue with flow on the older bottles . Now if you had said com-art then I would agree , I have two bottle that the seal has never been broken that is just dry paint in the bottle now. It may also go with the fact that all my paints are store in a climate controlled paint cabinet that stays at 70 degree no matter what with 10% humidity , At least when they are not in use.
When I am using them during the summer it is what ever temp the garage it , Winter time I heat the garage to about 72 degrees ,
That might be why I do not notice what you are talking about.
I might leave a bottle sit on my computer desk for a while and see if I notice a difference .
now you have me wondering if it is storage method or I am just not noticing a difference .
 
It'll be an interesting and informative test for us water based users Herb.

I will admit that my Paint isnt stored anywhere special. And our temps down here can fluctuate on any given day in the south.

Dan
 
Most definately a clog issue!
Even though you think you have it clean, and we've all done it, there will be small [ microscopic!] particles left behind that build up in the nozzle and cause exactly what you have described.
Follow the advice given, soak the thing in restorer, VERY CAREFULLY use the point of an old needle to push out the 'junk' that is in there [ and there will be some, I assure you!] and re-assemble your gun.
It will be like it's just out of the box!:):):thumbsup:
 
It'll be an interesting and informative test for us water based users Herb.

I will admit that my Paint isnt stored anywhere special. And our temps down here can fluctuate on any given day in the south.

Dan
Don't you mean, in any given hour? Lmao!lollol
 
I had the same issue your talking about with the same brush, the solution is I put a tiny slither of Teflon tape around the nozzle to slightly move it forward and after a damn good clean my HP-BH now works as good as my Micron shooting E'tac efx at 3:1, 1 being paint, I can now get super fine lines and no tip dry.

I did a paint pal on Sunday with it and the whole day no problems.


Anytime I experience whistling it is usually the start of tip dry, or my dinner is ready;)
Thanks @Madbrush, I might give it a try once this PP is done and dusted, it will then get a full clean out.
 
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