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Discussion in 'Troubleshooting!' started by Neural, Mar 2, 2018.
I'm a bit confused how strainers are gonna work, but ok!
when using regular createx, as well as using 4030, you can cook a mix that has inconstant viscosity's - like having thick mucus suspended in solution - that will spit as they work their way through the nozzle. Straining makes sure everything is consistent in the cup
Oohhh... I misread the post . Makes sense now.
Well, I fully disassembled the airbrush, removed the o-rings, and put it in the Restorer. In the process, I discovered that inside the airbrush, just in front of where the cup feeds into it, there was some garbage in there. It's got a yellow/clear hue to it with a gummy texture, which is a lot like the 4030 when it's dried up. I'm thinking maybe a bit of dried 4030 from the cap got into it sometime back. I really need to get those filters, but I do believe the problem is resolved now. letting the other parts soak over night, then I need to put the rings back on and re-assemble it for a test.
If anyone knows where I can get replacement o-rings, would love to know. Doesn't seem that they were damaged when taking them off, but I definitely would like some spares. Paasche doesn't have them on their website, other than a generic pack, which I'm not really sure is for the Talon (I sent them an e-mail. we'll see what they say).
I don’t know for sure, but I don’t think the O rings are anything special. A lot of suppliers seem to charge a huge price for O rings, but I don’t see why they couldn’t be purchased from another source if you know the sizes you need. I might be wrong, but as far as I’m aware it’s only the packing seal that is anything special.
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The o-ring between the body and the back cover is the same as the one for the cap....so it is like a spare....
I was wondering about that. thanks.
Ok. *now* I'm going to blame the Airbrush. I gave them some leeway with the issue of the cup lid not fitting properly (the cup is either out of round or too small, and customer support said the only way to fix it is to send the airbrush in). I chose, instead, to just deal with it. I need to be doing art, not waiting for USPS or whatever to decide if they want to deliver a box or take lunch, etc.
However, after leaving parts, without o-rings, soaking overnight in Restorer, and getting all the junk out, I re-assembled the aibrush, and....
When pulling back on the trigger to release paint.... the airflow starts to splutter at around 75% back, and at 100% pulled back it outright stops at some points.
What annoys me the most is that it's basically money thrown into the trash. I now have to wait a full week or more, however long it takes to send it in and get it back, and for what? To take a gamble that what they send back will be a functioning product.
At this rate, I might just buy some paint brushes and manually apply the Candy2o.
Devil's advocate here... as the brush was working properly before the soak (except for the bugger found in the paint channel), I would suggest that any issue was in the re-assembly of the brush, rather than the brush itself. Are you sure you got it all back the way it came out? Also, with a double action trigger, air is initiated by pressing down, while paint flow is dealt with by moving the trigger forward or back. In application, there should be no reason for the air to be dependent on the pull back of the trigger, but simply the pressing down. Are you sure you are not releasing pressure as you pull back? If you are not, then it is possible that the o-ring in the air valve has come out of place, and the added flow of air is causing it to block passage, but again, this would generally not be related to the actual forward or rearward position of the trigger... you've got all the puzzle pieces right there in front of you. Examine it closely, and make sure you put each in the way it was meant to be.
, Dave beat me to it,
Was this with straight water or with the Candy ? When you tear down a brush always test with water before attempting to push paint through it, it will save you wasting paint if you've assembled soemthing wrong and have to tear it down again.
Hahaha I also stopped reading at paasche In that case, without reading the rest..its probably your airbrush
Testing with water is a great tip I picked up from this very forum. I do this every time I start to paint, just to makes sure the needle is sealing properly and there are no other issues. It’s a really good habit to get into.
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No, this is a pure airflow issue at the trigger. It showed up before testing it with any liquid at all, and continued to show up with water, and then with properly reduced candy2o. That being said, the previous issue I had with paint consistency is gone. I know where that came from, and it is potentially my own fault. Unfortunately I'm not sure what part of my painting process created the problem there. I've seen advice against disassembling an airbrush constantly to clean it out, but I almost want to just buy half a gallon of restorer and soak it every single night, but the O-rings would die pretty quick with constantly being removed and put back on.