Is this the right path?

N

Neural

Guest
I'm still getting equipment together, but I'm also still learning about processes for the art I want to create.

I would like to know if the following steps are accurate. I'd like to know if I'm missing anything, or if there are other things I should do to avoid problems, etc.

The end result intended is a ground aluminum wall art piece that also has some opaque areas to it.

From what I have learned so far, the process should go something like this:

1. Grind Aluminum
2. Clean Aluminum with a de-greaser
3. Spray initial layer of Intercoat
4. Clean airbrush
5. Spray first color
6. Clean Airbrush
7. Spray intercoat
8. repeat 5 through 7 until colors are done
9. spray final layer of intercoat
10. add mask and cut out areas that need to be opaque
11. Spray opaque paint
12. Clean airbrush
13. Add 2 part clear (this I am not going to do myself though. going to pay someone who has the equipment and facility to do it for me).
 
There are many different ways to do ground metal effect on Aluminum .
I grind me pattern after laying out what I plan to do on it.
But Craig Fraser has a get video on doing ground metal on Coast Airbrush TV .
If I am using candies and do not want the color bleed I will use a single stage clear coat between because a like products can reactivate and can cause issues.
If I am using Opaques then I only clear it when I am finished.
And unless it is going to be outside 24/7 or is a piece of a car,bike,tractor that will be driven is the only time I would use 2k clear. If it is going to hang inside single stage clear will be just fine.
 
Do not know if the other steps are right but begin to degrease
step. 0. Clean Aluminum with a de-greaser
Yes indeed - quite correct! You could also get a water break free surface (and by definition grease free) using scothbrite and water. Start clean is best!
 
Good point about cleaning the Aluminum before grinding. Thank you. @Mr. Micron: When you say "single stage clear" is that the same as the 4030 Intercoat Clear that is made by Auto-Air? Or a different product? (not sure I even have the right product in mind with some of these).
 
4030 isnt a 'clear coat' and it shouldnt be used inbetween candy coats either, you'll get bleed.

I think you'll find that Mr.Micron is refering to a rattle can clear coat in between candy coats and as a final lock in coat.

2k clear coat is a two part product (also available in a spray can) but should only be used in a spray shop or outside with respirators if you have no other humans/animals within yelling distance - nasty stuff.

The only AutoAir product currently recommended to stop candy bleed is "bleed check 4040" everything else in the range - including 4030 - will allow bleed
 
you can use something like sg100 HOK or any rattle can mainly you want the clear coat to not be from the same paint family you are using .
 
"not from the same paint family" meaning that if I'm using something like Candy2O (water based), I want to use a clear that is not water based?

Also, if I'm using 3 or 4 colors at the most, and accuracy doesn't matter (not looking to paint fine details, just bringing out colors here and there), do I need to do coats between colors? Or just clean, coat, color, coat, opaque, finish?
 
To the
"not from the same paint family" meaning that if I'm using something like Candy2O (water based), I want to use a clear that is not water based?

Also, if I'm using 3 or 4 colors at the most, and accuracy doesn't matter (not looking to paint fine details, just bringing out colors here and there), do I need to do coats between colors? Or just clean, coat, color, coat, opaque, finish?
To the first part Yes something that is not waterbased.
Second part it all depends on the effect you are wanting as an end result.
If color bleed between the candies is not an issue then the answer is yes as you say Clean, coat, opaque and finish.
 
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