Iwata CM-CP2 or Iwata CM-SB2

[airbrushingferret]

Nothing worse than a confused ferret

 

[pajonate]

Nothing worse than a confused ferret

Has the ferret confused himself from being an airbrush artist to a stand-up comedian?

 

[pajonate]

Before I spent some money on E'tac EFX or Private Stock, can the experts on this tell me, which one you think is better?
I have read some other reviews, and opinions are divided.
Also, I know that @airbrushingferret has not seen tip dry (that is when the paint has to dry on something, and that something is the tip itself, ), but do you reduce the paint with PS Extend-Air for Private Stock, or with Edwards FX Series Reduce-Air for the EFX ones?
If you do, what is your recommended ration? I know everyone has different ways of doing it, but as starting point, someones experience will be helpful.
I see that EFX are only coming as opaque, where the Private stock ones are coming in transparent, semi-opaque and opaque variations.

For the end, let nitpick a little, why would they make sets and have them the same price as 6 individually priced bottles, and in case of the PS ones, the set of 6 is more expensive than buying 6 bottles individually?

 

[airbrushingferret]

The efx is pretty transparent on its own . There reducers are nothing more then pigment less paint. Not really a reducer. If you want the paint to be more transparent you simply add the reducer . For actually reducing I only add a drop or two of watter. The paint flows out of my micron fine staight out of the bottle . For the krome I noticed it requires a drop or two more. Don't over reduce
The reason why the efx has no or much less tip dry is because it's a re we table paint. In other words it's almost like water color paint. The private stock is not re wet able but from my own experience it's a much better paint then wiked. I will never order that stuf again.
My suggestion is go to us airbrush and order a bottle of black white and sepia smoke and do the test yourself. You can get efx in 1oz bottles but my recommendation is get the 2 oz with the eye dropper cap .

 

[pajonate]

Thanks, @airbrushingferret.
I was thinking about the 2oz bottles, too.
I am thinking of couple of 2oz bottles of EFX (3 probably), and a Skull set of Private stock.

Thanks for the explanation.

 

[Ronald art]

let confuse you 2 a bit more , etac paints work together you can mix the PS with the Efx and you can make the PS act like efx and the other way around by using the extend air , the reduce air or the AG 2050
mix reduce air with the PS and you will be able to erase it
mix extend air to the efx and you can use it on hard surface but you wont be able to erase it with ease
mix the AG 2050 with either one and you get a paint that will hold up to about anything except alcohol

 

[pajonate]

let confuse you 2 a bit more

Actually, @Ronald art, you put light on some dark areas here. Thank you.
My next question was to be "What is the actual difference between EFX and PS?", and you did a good job in break it down.
Is the EFX more a paper type of paint, since it needs to be absorbed a bit (since it's too thin), or it can be used on non porous surface, but mixed with extend air?

 

[Ronald art]

Actually, @Ronald art, you put light on some dark areas here. Thank you.
My next question was to be "What is the actual difference between EFX and PS?", and you did a good job in break it down.
Is the EFX more a paper type of paint, since it needs to be absorbed a bit (since it's too thin), or it can be used on non porous surface, but mixed with extend air?

the efx is a fine art paint made to be used on paper, canvas or clay board you name it , the pS was made for textiles and can be used on hard surface like metal efx can be erased PS not so much or not at all once cured .
to me the whole Etac system works perfect as I can adapt my paints to suite my needs but you need to know what is possible and what not : for instance you can use efx over a PS base without a problem , but you cant use PS over efx base unless you change the efx by adding the extend air to it .
it is important to know that etac paints on a hard surface like metal need a prep with 600 grid sandpaper 800 grid is to smooth for etac paints and you need to make sure that every layer is dry before you spray your next layer , I use a hair dryer between every layer to heat set it before I apply the next layer

 

[pajonate]

@Ronald art, man, this is really valuable info.
I am far from hard surface at this point, but not giving up on idea of using hard surface in the future. I was not thinking much about it, because it usually required a solvent paint types, and my basement has ventilation system suitable for such activity.

Thank you again.

 

[pajonate]

Here is my first piece with CM-B2. Done on sketch paper, so no erasing possible, just Paynes gray reduced for initial shading, and then reduced black, both Wicked Detail. Size is 12"H x 14"W.
Comments and critics are welcome. That is how we learn, by registering the mistakes we cannot see by ourselves.

 

[pajonate]

Last image is, of course, the reference (I am not that good, ).
I know I made him a bit light-skinned, but was scared if I go too dark I will end up with dark mess.
Next thing will be to try to master the skin texture, but since this is sketch paper, this isn't a good candidate for that, so, I am wrapping this project.

 

[airbrushingferret]

Looks pretty good so far but your daggers need work. Instead of trying portraits try some feathers. There's a good airbrush video called airbrush feather by some Spanish guy . I forget his name but he goes on about how important the dagger stroke is. Practice small daggers and little daggers try starting all your daggers from the same point. Dining daggers frome thin to wide and the other way around . And keep doing it over and over. Sounds kind of boring but if you saw all the art work I posted here years ago it was mostly all daggers. It's like piano players practicing scales IN ALL KEYS. Not just c major

 

[airbrushingferret]

And get some etc efx

 

[pajonate]

Thanks, @airbrushingferret. I will try what you recommended. I know my daggers need a lot of practice, but also in this case I had the paynes gray where the eye lashes were, and then I tried to go over them with black (obviously not very successfully), so it end up like one lash is made of two-three split ones.

Oh, and yes, I saw the feather video myself. That guy made it look so easy, but he probably has years of experience and stroking that AB, where I am on my second item, and only three months of occasional AB-ing.

I'll do my exercises,

 

[Hydeous]

Hi guys, I have similar question and I can't decide whether to get the CM-B or the CM-CP2. I currently have the HP-CS and while it's pretty good, it's quite hard to get consistent fine line and I hope that by getting the CM series, it'll help me achieve it much easier.

I can get the CM-B at around 23K yen while the CM-CP2 at around 38k yen, not including shipping and proxy fee.

 

[pajonate]

I can get the CM-B at around 23K yen while the CM-CP2 at around 38k yen, not including shipping and proxy fee.

I have only CM-B from the Custom MIcron series, and it really has a better flow, and is more controllable. What I am finding strange is the difference in prices you mentioned. It seems the CM-CP2 at your place is 150% of the price of CM-B. In USA, CM-B is $450, and CM-CP2 is 540, so the difference is not that big.
I got mine on Ebay from Japanese seller (his/her name was mentioned in the previous posts), and also there the difference in price between the two was not that big, ($30 - $40 max) Check your source, or look around more, and go with what you budget can survive.
The pressure valve on CM-CP2 should not be your deciding factor (in my opinion), because for $20 you can get a stand alone one, and you can use it on multiple brushes.

Take care and good luck.

 

[Hydeous]

So the Mac valve and cup size aside, the CM-B is exactly the same as the CP2 and perform similar?

I've no idea why prices can vary so much, but there's always deals to be had when I buy from the manufacturing country. I got my HP-CS at bout 8000yen or so. But I've no idea why the CM-CP2 cost so much over there. Most sellers are asking 50-55K yen for it.

Yes, I've been reading this thread for a few days now, it really helps me out. Thanks in advance!

 

[pajonate]

So the Mac valve and cup size aside, the CM-B is exactly the same as the CP2 and perform similar?

You are slightly wrong in this one. Aside from the mentioned differences, they are different in the needle/nozzle size setup, which is important difference to have in mind. The needle/nozzle system is 0.18mm on CM-B, and 0.20mm on the CM-CP2. CM-CP2 can be ordered as 0.18mm, too, but based on the coastalairbrush.com that will up the price for ~$180, but then you will have CM-CP2 with both 0.20 and 0.18 setup. I am not sure if your seller has that option.

Will you be able to feel the difference, I don't know, some do.

 

[Hydeous]

The CP2 is with the 0.18 needle as well if it makes any difference.

 

[pajonate]

The price of the CM-CP2 (~$340 from Japan) seems reasonable, but the price of ~$207 for CM-B is quite low. I have not seen it that low even from other Japan sellers. I know there is CM-B and CM-B2, so make sure you have the CM-B2 one, if you choose to get it.