Iwata Custom Micron

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paulcouk

Guest
Hi...I have read the other posts but carnt fine the answer
I have not got good flow with the Micron...I am painting with createz paint ( witch is 2 years old filter)
the air is 30psi ruining down to 25psi when I use it . I am painting on hardboard with black layer of car paint. But I carnt a descent flow .
with the paint I am using 1 to 1 and 1 to 2 water it keeps clogging up , with a stranded needle and the end bit
I dont know if it the paint reducer I use water. I have a different post to ask about reducer...
I am a beginner new be..but I carnt get a nice flow it clogges up spits paint or nothing at all .
I have cleaned it with aztex cleaner and a spray
I watch video of some one painting but mine I can never get the flow they get..
i have cleaned the needle poking out of the brush and sprayed it in to a container it seems to be a good flow but when I use it again the same things happens
Paul
 
What Createx is it? Standard, Auto Air, Wicked or Illustration? depending on what you are using depends on the answer?

Lee
 
Createx illustration eventhough water based contains a solvent. The moment you reduce it with water it becomes "gummy" after a short while. Parts of that will clog the nozzle. It took me a while to figure this one out as I also had that problem :p

Using the "5091 illustration reducer" should solve it for most part, and I reduce 3:1 at least, illustration is (for my taste) pretty pigment heavy). But the amount of reduction is ofcourse a bit of a personal preference
 
At Dru's class we used the CI straight out the bottle at 22psi.

I haven't experienced any problems reducing with water.
 
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4012/W500 is the correct reducer, put the reducer in the cup first to help it mix easier :) make sure you really shake up your paints too everytime you use them.
 
Using the 4012 will do the trick. But it will still take some experimenting to get a good flow. There is no one ratio that works for everyone, (too many variables, including weather, humidity etc).

To start with you need to make sure your gun is clean. Because you haven't got your paint flow right yet, it is likely your nozzle is either blocked or dirty. Paint can still flow but the needle wont be seating properly. Even if you've cleaned it, and it looks clean, paint hides and you will be amazed at what can be in there. Soak it in laquer thinner, then gentlyuse the needle to push any paint out, careful not to scratch or flare the nozzle (they are very expensive to replace). If it feels sticky or spongy, then it def has paint in there. When I think its clean, I do it again just in case. :)

Once you have your air/paint/reduction ratio right, blockages wont be an issue. To get your paint to flow you need to do some methodical testing. Add reducer one drop at a time adjusting your pressure to suit. More reducer = less pressure. Some colours work with more or less reduction than others, and some don't need any. Make some notes until you get to grips with it.

The 4012 reducer is also a great cleaner. At the end of a session
put some in the cup, gently backflush , dump it out, repeat if dirty, then spray a little through, and you're good for next time.

On a side note paint can last years if stored properly, if it has been exposed to either hot or cold temps it can go bad. It might be worth getting a new bottle just to compare.
 
Thank you for your replies Guy's & Ladies
I have done a lot of what you say. I clean the nozzle, I soaked it for an hr and carefully cleaned it with the needle and I had some blue stuff out of the end, I have cleaned it and cleaned it so I'm thinking it should now be clean, since Ive had the brush I have been using
white and only using white...so I done know where the blue has come from...I have emailed the supplier and told them see if they can shed light on it ....
I have tried the brush together with the 4012 reducer. It feels like a new brush, But it is a new brush.I have used a new bottle of paint also
I think I'm am its worst enemy because I will do a bit and them stop and have a cup of tea and then start it gain. So thanks again
Paul
 
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Glad you are sorted but be aware you are using the worst colour of all for too dry etc due to the high pigment of white (this is true for every make of paint i have tried), every other colour will seem to flow better and clog less :)

Sent from my SM-J500FN using Tapatalk
 
White and black are more heavily pigmented, so need a little more reduction than other colours (I actually find black the worst, but most people say white).
You can leave paint in the cup for a little while just fine, just make sure the needle tip is clean so paint doesn't dry there, and be aware that the reducer and paint might start to seperate, or pigment may settle so make sure you mix it before using it again.
 
I've never been able to shoot any of the brands smoothly straight out of the bottles at 30psi and less. Yes it does spray but very grainy and for some that is fine but not for me.
 
As I have never used any colors yet but agree with Andreza I have tried it straight of the the bottle and it doze look grainy to me. As a newbe I can see that. The other thing I forgot to mention as suggested I fine it easier put the reducer in first I find it mixes well doing that..
Thanks for the replies Paul
 
AndreZA said:
I've never been able to shoot any of the brands smoothly straight out of the bottles at 30psi and less. Yes it does spray but very grainy and for some that is fine but not for me.
Click to expand...
Me too. I know Dru Blair does it, but I haven't been on one of his courses (and am never likely to unless I win the lotto lol) so I don't know how he does it. I just know it doesn't work for me, and the way I paint.
 
I interned with Dru several years ago, when Wicked Detail was just coming out, He STILL didn't use reducer. Just straight paint though a .18 micron. I couldn't get that stuff to spray well unreduced, but you can use a lot less reducer than you'd think.
I think Dru could make drywall spackle work through a micron, though. Lol
 
I've just used illustration for the first time. I found that 3 or 4 drops of 4012 reducer to 1 drop of paint worked well through my 0.2 HP-B That was using both black and white paints. I only have one other colour and that is cobalt blue but I haven't tried it yet. I could not get the straight black or white paint to go through the airbrush well at all unreduced, it was thick.

Lee
 
I Think a lot of the reason Dru can spray with no reduction is he sprays larger sections and does the fine detail with erasing and scratching. I don't think I have seen him paint true lines. A lot of illustrators use a lot of tools and pencils and friskets to get all the detail. So if your always shooting with the nozzle open you wouldn't need to reduce. That just my assumption. I could be wrong.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Airbrush Dreams said:
I Think a lot of the reason Dru can spray with no reduction is he sprays larger sections and does the fine detail with erasing and scratching. I don't think I have seen him paint true lines. A lot of illustrators use a lot of tools and pencils and friskets to get all the detail. So if your always shooting with the nozzle open you wouldn't need to reduce. That just my assumption. I could be wrong.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Your assumption is pretty accurate. Dru's techniques for detail use masking, scratching, and erasing to create realism. Using matched paints also makes the the spray pattern being grainy unnoticeable.
 
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