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Iwata Medea NEO TRN 1 for vehicle touch up?

Discussion in 'General Airbrush Discussion' started by Damian Garott, Jun 18, 2018.


  1. Damian Garott

    Damian Garott Young Tutorling

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    I want to go ahead and touch up all the small nicks and chips on my car and I am convinced that airbrushing it is the best method if you don't want to repaint the whole car. I don't know much about airbrush brands but I heard that Iwata is a good brand and I liked the way it looks too because of the trigger. I'm going to order touch up paint from touchupdirect.com along with 2k primer and 2k clear also I plan on buying extra cups for the AB but my concern is the AB itself. So if I can get some assistance deciding on a good brand and good AB for this type of job that won't malfunction as soon as I start pulling that trigger. I'm not too concerned about the price as long as it's worth it and not overpriced for what it is. I'll appreciate any help I can get deciding what brand and model I should buy for this and if possible informing me on what other items I should buy for this job would be much much much appreciated. I know also that I need a compressor but what else should I need? Thank you!
  2. Robbyrockett2

    Robbyrockett2 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    Lets see, firstly NEO is not a real Iwata, it's a chinese made budget line sold by iwata.
    Since you like the trigger brushes, will it fall apart right away....probably not ,they are ok.

    But the job is going to be far far far easier to accomplish with the brushes here as they have a fan pattern for clear and pinpoint for the color:

    This is a high quality japanese brand likely made by the people who make iwata
    https://spraygunner.com/gsi-creos-mr-airbrush-procon-boy-ps-290-0-5mm-pistol-trigger-type/

    This is as far as I know the same brush sold by iwata
    https://www.coastairbrush.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Iwata_HI-LINE_HP-TH_Airbrush

    This is the handle for either
    https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-K-200-Custom-Handle/dp/B002KQJSFA

    A few questions;

    Do you have pics of the areas you'd like to fix, closeup of the damage and general panel shots for locations?
    How old is the current paint on the car?
    Do you want it just less noticeable, Hard to spot without close inspection, or nearly factory perfect?

    Some things you would definitely need are prep-all, wax and grease remover, blending clear or blending reducer, Matched touch-up paint, Tape, Drop cloth or masking plastic, several grades of sandpaper (400-1500) , a NIOSH vapor respirator, and most likely A real buffer (not the walmart waxer type but the ones that are essentially grinders) and rubbing compound.

    If you post pics I could advise you better

    Also you will likely soon be asked to introduce yourself in the introductions section and tell us things like what country or state you're in and a little about yourself.....Folks like to welcome you in and have some basic idea about your skills and equipment and location so they can give you relevant advice.
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2018
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  3. Damian Garott

    Damian Garott Young Tutorling

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    Thanks for the reply. I don't have pics about the damaged areas but they are you typical rock chips along with some weird pain defect where there is a small round spot (1/4 " diameter) with several holes within it that reach all the way don to the substrate. I fixed one with a touch up pen, aerosol clear/primer, sanding, and the whole works but it was difficult to paint it with the pen and did not like the result hence the AB. The paint is a red metallic that's six yrs old.

    Anyway, I can see that the Iwata HI-LINE HP has a fan pattern wich might come in handy for later projects, I also like GSI one but do they have an adjustable spray pattern without switching out the tips?

    Also, what would be the best method to switch from primer to base coat to clear--well, actually i'm sure the best method is to have three separate ABs but that's not practical for the average consumer. So you think just buying spare cups for the AB would be a smart move so that when I finish spraying primer I clean the AB then put the cup with the base coat and so on?

    I'm planning on turning this into a hobby after I finish with this project on my car so i'm excited.
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  4. Robbyrockett2

    Robbyrockett2 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    Both of those brushes are for all intents and purposes the same brush.

    To swap paint I just do a triple rinse and backflush with acetone (fill the cup 1/3rd shake and spray and repeatedlt force the air back into the cup by putting a finger in front of the nozzle.....dump excess and repeat twice maybe wipe the cup and lid after the first time and wipe the nozzle with clean acetone after the last time)

    Ok, so youre already aware of the quality of blend you'll be able to get from just touching up small spots then....
    So i wont go into detail on the different methods and their results Other than to say you will get an easier blend on the clear by using blending reducer and even spraying the area with blending or regular reducer 5 minutes before you spray clear, it softens the original some allowing the new to burn in better. Theres even a method of alternating reducer/clear that can get you a blend you wont have to buff if youre good at spraying clear.

    None of the fan cap airbrushes can adjust from pinpoint/cone to fan without changing tips that im aware of.
    Also these brushes arent great for using for the rest of the hobby, they are basically tiny mini spray guns more than they really work for AB'ng work.
    Depending on what compressor you have you may be just as well off to get a real airbrush (like an eclipse hp-cs) and a .6 purple Harbor freight 40z. detail gun, for $15 it actually does a good job at fanning on clear for small areas once adjusted correctly but needs a compressor with 5-6CFM output.
    Unless youre willing to get something like the ps290/hp-th AND regular airbrush, which will work with much less compressor.
  5. JackEb

    JackEb The Dragon Hunter Staff Member Admin

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    you have asked questions and received a rapid response, but how about going to the intro section and saying hi officially :)
    http://www.airbrushforum.org/introductions/
    at the very least we like to know where folks live, it helps us suggest local suppliers if needed, or there may be a member close by that can come and help if you have an issue that needs a second pair of eyes ?

    if you are someone that has absolutely no airbrush / spraygun experience i doubt you are going to get the result you are hoping for.
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  6. Damian Garott

    Damian Garott Young Tutorling

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    So acetone will do just fine as a cleaner without damaging anything? What about rubbing alcohol?

    About blending reducer I never paid attention to that part when I was doing my research because I thought it won't be necessary for small spots.

    So going for either the PS290 or HP-TH along with a regular airbrush would be your top choice? What is a regular airbrush thought? You mean a cheap AB and for what purpose would I need two types of AB? As far as the compressor goes I guess that would be a secondary choice meaning I would pick the ABs fist and then depending on that i'd pick and choose a compressor.
  7. Robbyrockett2

    Robbyrockett2 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    Yeah acetone or lacquer thinner for cleaning out 2k....just try not to get it on the rubber parts in the air valve/ trigger area . IDK about rubbing alcohol, I dont think it would do a lot of good for cleaning out 2k ... never tried.
    You can use the same method with regular reducer as well and like you say for a small spot if you have have to de nib a little its no big deal.
    A ps-290 and an Iwata eclipse hp-cs would set you up in the hobby pretty well so long as its small work that doesnt go into the realm of real spray guns.

    The ps-290 or hp th are really meant for laying down a background or clearing over artwork, they will do a pretty small pinpoint but not like you need for artwork. They would make a perfect little touch up gun but they arent artwork brushes.

    You could get away with just the eclipse but it will make clearing over a spot more difficult then something with a fan. Personally I use the little .6 detail gun in place of the 290/th but I'm considering one anyhow because of the ability to be run from my smallest compressor that weighs 20lb instead of the 45lb compressor required to run the detail gun.

    Really all depends on your budget and what your top priorities are
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2018
  8. JackEb

    JackEb The Dragon Hunter Staff Member Admin

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    OK, I'm putting my safety hat on here........
    2K clear . . . . acetone . . . . Nasty stuff if you breath it in, Robby has mentioned getting a NIOSH vapor respirator which is awesome.
    What paint are you planning on using on the car ? If its Urethane then you may want to check with your local council if you can even spray that stuff in your backyard ! In a nutshell its not good for your health, or the health of anything else in the area that breathes !
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  9. Leakyvalve

    Leakyvalve Gravity Guru

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    @Robbyrockett2 Without going through your whole post history, are you a paint and body guy? I'd be a hobbyist at best that's why I ask so I don't step on your toes here.
    I've never seen anyone use an airbrush in any of the tutorials I have seen. Usually because by the time all the sanding, body filler, primer work is done, the area becomes a whole lot larger than just the initial chip or scratch. The LPH80 is a SUPERB gun for small repairs.
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  10. Robbyrockett2

    Robbyrockett2 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    Yeah , though mainly with the army and then with amusement park ride cars and novelty vehicles for movies. I specialize in fiberglass and composite bodies/ art objects from scratch. I do normal cars here and there but it hasnt been my main thing.

    I agree that the process as the OP wants to use is not normal and not going to yield a near factory result, I just gather from what hes said that he was pretty satisfied with what he had done before but just wants to use an airbrush to get rid of the brushstrokes and make it easier to buff in.
    With his cars paint being 6 years old doing it the proper way would have him painting a large portion of the car to get blends and all correct. Even then a six year old metallic red would be hard to blend into un-noticeably
    basically I gather hes just kind of stepping up one notch from the nail polish style touch up paint and lacquer clear over top type do it yourself process.
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  11. Damian Garott

    Damian Garott Young Tutorling

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    Not sure what type of paint it is but i'll be ordering it from touchupdirect.com, the primer and clear I do want it in 2k though. And yeah I wsas planning on getting a mask for the job.
  12. Damian Garott

    Damian Garott Young Tutorling

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    I'm neither of those I simply did some research on spray painting cars/ spot/ smart repairs for some time because I wanted to turn it in to project with my own car. I don't want to get into spray guns though because that would mostly mean that the repair will need to be much bigger than I intend it to be. Leaving repairs areas small leaves a depression so i'll be using some filler to even it out as well. I'm just trying to find out as much as possible about the best or AB to do this kind of job.
  13. Robbyrockett2

    Robbyrockett2 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    If youre doing it how I think you are I think maybe just an eclipse is what youre looking for.

    You'll also get the most out of it as far as getting into the hobby after this project.
  14. Damian Garott

    Damian Garott Young Tutorling

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    How is it that you think ill be doing it. Ok, here's an idea of what I plan on doing, so basically this is it:
    Sand down to substrate where those mysterious circles exist. I'm not sanding too much of a bigger area than where the damege is for simplicity's sake.
    Prime the metal.
    Use filler
    Paint
    Clear
    Buff

    I'm not sure if i'll be using blending clear yet as I haven't payed much attention to what exactly IS blending clear. But the result will be better so I might look into it.


    Anyway, here is this eclipse with a compressor in Amazon. Is this compressor really necessary though? I'm also including a few extra cups. What else should I be needing as part of the AB kit?
    https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Eclipse-HP-BCS-Airbrushing-Compressor/dp/B001OXYT68/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1529793781&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=airbrush eclipse&psc=1



    On a separate note, I've been busy working today is my day off and next week i'm on vacation. Hopefully I can get this project done during that week. One of my plans is too also touch my mom and dads car after I finish with my car. Should be fun.
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2018
  15. Robbyrockett2

    Robbyrockett2 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    Basically I am guessing you wont be spraying much more than about a 4 inch circle or so in any one spot at the most....?
    BTW youll want to prime after using the filler.


    That compressor is horrible..... of course you need some kind of compressor but yeah I'd avoid those little boxes, as you can see its max working pressure is 18psi.

    Even this would serve you much better.
    https://www.amazon.com/F2C-TC-20T-Compressor-Airbrush-Kits/dp/B078J6SWFX/ref=sr_1_cc_5?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1529802609&sr=1-5-catcorr&keywords=airbrush compressor with tank

    But if you have a normal compressor you can just get an adapter.
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  16. Damian Garott

    Damian Garott Young Tutorling

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    Yeah, just about 4 inches, maybe a bit more if necessary. So yeah I think i'll have to look into the blending clear process for a better result. As for priming after filling well that's what had in mind but I messed up when I was typing.

    Thank you for telling me about that compressor not being worth it. I actually get to buy a more efficient one and for a better price with the one you recommend. So i'll just get them both separately instead of that kit. I don't have any compressors so i'll just go with the one you recommended.

    One more thing, tell me again why is it that you suggested a .6 harbor freight AB to go with the eclipse earlier? I think it was because it was a better choice for the clear...?
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  17. Robbyrockett2

    Robbyrockett2 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    https://www.harborfreight.com/adjustable-detail-spray-gun-92126.html
    Its actually this gun, it does a fair job for small spots and makes clear easier since it has a fan and with the volume of air it uses it can push HS clears....but requires about a 4-5 gallon compressor...... Whether you'll need it is a matter of preference. Being you dont already have a little garage type compressor, Idk if its worth getting a compressor just for it.......maybe you could borrow one to try it.....Its worth trying for $15 and seeing how you like it. I feel like if the spot you did with a can was ok then you can probably do ok with just an eclipse. A lot comes down to your style, preferences and skill. Sprays from a 1/8th in dot up to a 2 inch fan.
    Honestly its hard for me to judge....for what youre doing with the cars i would probably be almost as comfortable using any of the three discussed. With the eclipse being least preferred for clear but most used for future artworks and such....

    The HF is really just a cheap rip-off of the LPH-50 which is the predecessor to the lph-80 that @Leakyvalve mentioned. Which are fantastic little guns but I personally shy away from recommending $300 spray guns to anyone who doesnt plan on doing a ton of work with them.


    just
    IMO;
    (in this instance, some of the other cheapies are simply horrible guns)
    The expensive guns can do three things the cheap-o cant .......Last a lifetime instead of a couple years, resell for nearly what you bought them for, and make it easier for someone who already has the practice to lay down paint that doesnt require any finish work more consistently. In a body shop, avoid a few instances of buffing and its paid for itself. For a hobbyist or even for me because i dont do bumper repairs on a daily basis, it's hard to justify the price jump from$15 to $300.
    The compromise would be the ANI r150 which is supposed to spray every bit as well as the lph's but probably is never gonna hold the resale value.

    For airbrushes Its different, i have a cheapo that does a good job.....but it took a lot of fiddling and it still leaves plenty to be desired.
  18. Damian Garott

    Damian Garott Young Tutorling

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    I see, so it's just a very affordable gun that does a better job at clear than AB. Anyway, what type of clear is HS? As far as I know 2k clear is as good as it can get. I for now don't want to get into guns given how it could easily lead up to renting out a paint booth eventually. Ha.

    So what do you think about this Eclipse HP BCS?
    https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Eclipse-Action-ECL-2000/dp/B000R3C3SM/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1529952828&sr=1-1&keywords=eclipse hpbcs

    The reason I like it is because of the bottle feed which to me it seems easier to swap between paints by having separate bottles with the corresponding paint ready to go. I think the gravity feed will get in the way of spraying but if it ends up being a better choice then i'm ok with that. I also notice how on the description it says "solvent resistant O ring" is this a flaw for bottom feed ABs?

    And as for the compressor what would be an advantage if let's say end up sticking with this one. https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbr...rd_wg=aLaag&psc=1&refRID=PJ7ZKBM26919ADTZ85BW
    I see a couple of obvious improvement like runs cooler for longer and it provides a more steady pressure. It seems like e better choice as long as I can afford it? I don't know..will the one you recommended work just fine without upgrading it to this? Which one would you recommend if you were the one doing the job?
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2018
  19. HellBird

    HellBird Elite Member! Elite Member! Very Likeable!

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    @Damnian Garott , I have that exact model compressor. It works really well for me. Pretty quiet. Gets up to about 50 PSI. The tank is smallish so while the compressor runs frequently, it does not run constantly. No problems so far with overheating, but I have had much time for long painting sessions either.
    Can't speak to the Iwata BCS, but a lot of others have it and like it a lot. I have a Badger Anthem 155 which is similar.
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  20. Robbyrockett2

    Robbyrockett2 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    At that price I would be looking at a california air from home depot.....and order an adapter to go from the 1/4npt to 1/8th male bsp.
    You can screw that to a regular compressor quick connect....which they have in male or female thread so whatever you adapter is is fine.

    I've never ever seen anyone say an eclipse sucks or they were disappointed with it and it's most peoples first real airbrush and most continue to use it no matter what other brushes they get....the bcs has the .5 so it would work great for your project.
    Siphon or gravity is mainly personal preference....though most people wont use a siphon on little paintings.

    2k clear comes in all kinds of flavors...High solids, Medium solids...I dont think ive ever seen low solids.
    Blending clear, uv, poly, special formulations for going over epoxy....idk theres quite a few. High solids being the most durable but generally used for complete allover paintjobs or fresh projects.

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