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micron cm-c plus

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting!' started by paulcouk, Jan 30, 2017.


  1. markjthomson

    markjthomson AKA Quick Draw !! (and still very happy) Staff Member Mod

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    If you are using Createx Colors, here is the commen t form the manufacturer... "Createx Airbrush Colors work best out of the bottle with a 0.5mm tip-sized airbrush operated @ 40 � 50 PSI." http://createxcolors.com/airbrushcolors.html If you are using this then the pigment is too large for your brush.

    These come in transparent, not really intended for microns... they can be reduced. Just because it's transparent doesn't mean it will go through the brush!

    If you are working with the PDF tutorial you will see on page 3 under equipment used that the painting is done in Com-Art colours. Similar paints would be Createx Illustration, Golden high flow, Schminke but not Createx colors.

    Createx Illustration... Much better for what you are wanting... http://www.createxcolors.com/illustration.html If it is over two years old give it a try but a REALLY good stir first.

    Wicked should be OK.
  2. paulcouk

    paulcouk Spider Splatterer

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  3. markjthomson

    markjthomson AKA Quick Draw !! (and still very happy) Staff Member Mod

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    Yes that's correct and the transparents he is using are com-art, go up 2 pages, little square in bottom left side of the page. You now know not all transparent are created equal. By all means use the createx colors they will work BUT they are intended for a 0.5mm nozzle, not a 0.23mm nozzle.
  4. paulcouk

    paulcouk Spider Splatterer

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    Thanks for all you help
    I dident read page 3 right........ took a time to get pic up
    Im relay grateful
    I remember reading the wicked had smaller size pigment ( I think )
    markjthomson likes this.
  5. JackEb

    JackEb The Dragon Hunter Staff Member Admin

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    Glad someone beat me to it while I was driving to work :)

    It can get really confusing when starting out, opaques/transparents/reducers/bases ugh, why cant it be simple !!
    when I first started I used Createx illustration and reducer the result was lots of spidering, lots of hair pulling and telling myself I was doing something wrong, it shouldn't be this hard....... I had the transparent base but didn't really know what it was for at the beginning.
    Now I use the transparent base (think of it as clear paint) when I want to reduce the colour intensity but not the viscosity of the paint, just use reducer to thin the paint if I'm working tiny detail at low pressure.

    It will make more sense as your journey progresses and things start to make sense, you'll get a lot of ' Oh ! THATS what they were talking about ' moments.

    we are here to help and guide those willing to learn.
  6. paulcouk

    paulcouk Spider Splatterer

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    Thanks.....you said it all in the thread that's how im feel at the moment
    because all my
  7. JackEb

    JackEb The Dragon Hunter Staff Member Admin

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    we all started the same way, saying the same things
    why isn't it working
    why cant I do this
    why is it spidering
    I'm never gonna 'get it'
    its all to frustrating.......
    and the all time favorite
    'but I've cleaned my brush'

    stick with it. when you have a problem, are getting confused or just need to vent then just pop up a post if you cant find your answer on the forum. You wont be the first to want to tear your hair out and play darts with your airbrush and you certainly wont be the last.

    It was only a few years ago that I started, so I remember how it was. It does get better, if it hadn't been for this forum I would have probably chucked everything in the bin. but instead, the gang all rallied around and held my hand and guided me along. I can now paint something recognisable :)
    I'm am now a proud member of our fictitious AAD (Airbrush Aquisiton Disorder) and have more airbrushes than hands and enough paint to last me a few years.
    erwin de pan and Squishy like this.
  8. Kim McCann

    Kim McCann Young Tutorling

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    One thing I learned over the years, and rarely seen posted, is that over time, because the nozzle and body that hold the nozzle are of different metals, slowly over time you can get a small drift in the position of the nozzle relative to the fluid nozzle cap. What starts to happen is that it ends up too far back from the nozzle cap, and this allows tiny bits of paint to build up and cause the air flow to surge, as it builds up and then clears.

    You can sometimes detect this by spraying water through a freshly cleaned brush and watching the pattern of the spray. It should be conical, even and centered. If it drifts to one side, or you see any uneven flow at the tip - like more on one side or the other, or the spray comes out at an angle, that is what is going on.

    No worries, it's usually an easy fix. It takes a few minutes tho. Remove the cap, and gently turn the nozzle in 1/16th increments to be a bit "looser". Put the nozzle cap on, test the spray, rinse and repeat. Eventually you will get the "sweet spot" where it sprays like new. Usually somewhere between 1/4 and maybe 1 full turn for an older brush. This is one of the reasons that it is vital not to overtighten a nozzle when cleaning, and it exacerbates the problem.

    If your nozzle feels too loose after this, or you get air leakage back into the paint, what I do is take a bit of nylon thread, stolen from my lady's sewing kit, and run it through some beeswax to make it sticky. I wrap it once around the base of the nozzle where it meets the body, in the tiny gap, and then hit it with a lighter for a half second. Melts the nylon and beeswax into the gap, sealing it better than factory.

    Microns are precision machines, and over time metal shrinkage / oxidization / over tightening or even just too agressive cleaning can introduce small variances in spacing of components that can effect spray. All too often people buy a new nozzle or needle, or ending up tearing their hair out over what can be solved by a tiny, tiny adjustment of the nozzle seating. When they leave the factory, this is rarely any kind of issue, but wear and tear in the real world are a thing, and this one little tip seems to rarely come up.

    When removing a nozzle for cleaning, remember not to screw it back in more than finger tight. They are not meant to go in super tight and the body metal is softer than the nozzle, so you can introduce a bit of drift in the final relationship between the nozzle cap and the nozzle when reassembled.

    Also worth noting that if you do need to replace a nozzle, you might need to do this too. They are precision machined, but even the best machining can't compensate for unknowns, like micron level metal shinkage over time. This is why it's easiest to replace with a matched fluid head assembly with all the parts matched, but... sometimes that isn't an option. So if you get a new nozzle, some tuning in how far in you screw it, should be anticipated.

    A tiny bit of nylon thread and the tiniest bit of beeswax (reg wax probably works too, but the gal would probably chop me up if I raided the decorative candle box), can work wonders in making an old brush behave better than factory.
    jord001 likes this.
  9. Mr.Micron

    Mr.Micron Royal pain in the air hose Admin

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    While you comments are sound WHO ARE YOU ?
    Yes we like to know more about you that is why we will ask for a proper introduction in the introduction section of the forum.
    you will find that here http://www.airbrushforum.org/introductions/
    jord001 and JackEb like this.
  10. Kim McCann

    Kim McCann Young Tutorling

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    Just posted a hello.

    :)
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  11. Mr.Micron

    Mr.Micron Royal pain in the air hose Admin

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    Thanks you :D
    jord001 likes this.

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