Mojo III vs Paasche Vision?

G

GeoffD

Guest
I keep reading recomendations for Mike Learns Mojo III brush and I'm curious of what the differences are between the Mojo III and the Paasche Talon and Vision, the brush it's based on. I have a couple of the Vision brushes, it comes with the same "size 0" needle and nozzle pairing as the latest Mojo brushes and the Vision gains the built in mac valve. 5 minutes poliśhing the needle and nozzle and a moment or two to dial-in the air cap for best atomisation against its O ring seal and the Vision gives the Micron a good run for the money. So whats done to make the Mojo III so well spoken of?
 
I've never used a Vision, but the trigger on the Mojo III is very nice. The small nozzle on the Vision is a .2mm where the Mojo is a .12mm. I like the fact that I can get very subtle detail with it. I only really use it toward the end of projects when doing the final detail work. The .12mm puts out so little paint, I'd never try to use it for an entire project.
 
Wow. 1.2 !
The Vision size "0" needle is 2.0 so he must be poliśhing the hell out of it. They don't give a size for it on their web site.
I just wonder how it atomizes ?
 
Wow. 1.2 !
The Vision size "0" needle is 2.0 so he must be poliśhing the hell out of it. They don't give a size for it on their web site.
I just wonder how it atomizes ?
With a .12mm, you definitely need to reduce the paint. Same with anything else, once everything gets dialed in with the air cap and reduction ratios, it performs well. I like it for subtle detail because you get a very small change in paint flow, so subtle detail is easier to achieve.
 
Are the Mojo's pieces parts interchangeable with the Talon and Vision?Like the heads and needles/nozzles?
 
FYI. I talked to Mike Learn at the airbrush getaway this past october at Las Vegas about his mojo AB. I asked him about what was the actual needle size for the "size 0" and he told me it is a .18mm.
Also, I asked him if he was going to go for the size .12mm and he said no. There is no point to go that small because reducing the paint that extreme would cause problems and besides he also said that the size 0 allows him to get the detail that he wants. He mentioned that he is working on a new air cap in a shape of a bullet, I asking about whether he would consider using the Paasche Vision body for his mojo and he said no.

Hope this can be helpful info. By the way Mike is a very cool and nice guy. Everytime I approached him he was very friendly and answered all my question. Actually all the teachers were extremely pleasant and friendly snd were very helpful.
 
I just got a brand new Talon...I was going to get a MojoIII nozzle and needle to put in it,but I am having an issue with it...air is leaking out from around the head..do I need to seal the threads with beeswax?Also,how do you tune it properly?I like the airbrush,although it isn't near the quality of my Iwatas....maybe I will just use the Fan Cap and just use it for a sprayer instead of trying to get detail out of it....I want to like this airbrush,but it's frustrating right now...
 
I just got a brand new Talon...I was going to get a MojoIII nozzle and needle to put in it,but I am having an issue with it...air is leaking out from around the head..do I need to seal the threads with beeswax?Also,how do you tune it properly?I like the airbrush,although it isn't near the quality of my Iwatas....maybe I will just use the Fan Cap and just use it for a sprayer instead of trying to get detail out of it....I want to like this airbrush,but it's frustrating right now...

On the Mojo, I seal the threads on the nozzle. The Air cap should have an O-Ring. Over tightening it is a problem. Mine is usually about 1/8th of a turn from being tight. All the way tight crushes the seal and causes a leak.
 
I have the Vision and the bottom feed talon. I had an issue with the Vision an the guys at Paasche where very eager to help, just email or call them. I'd also like to mention I purchased Badger's 2020. The Sotar is a great airbrush and produces dine detail like the Vision. But the Sotar has really delicate and expensive parts that I find, by design are prone to damage. As an example, the needle protrude out of the rear of the handle. And even after hand tightening the locking needle chuck that ball on the rear of the needle can be bumped resulting in damage to the nozzle. After the first four months I had spent over 80% of the purchase price on replacement parts. And while my iwata brushes have expensive parts also, iwata parts are not as soft or easily bent or broke. My vision is not a micron but it's really close to my micron with parts more durable and reasonably priced.
 
I have hated my Vision since I bought it...it never seems to seal correctly. Dennis Cook and I spent many phone calls about it. I ended up just accepting it sucked ;-)
 
I have used a Mojo III however it was one of the first few and it was a bit clunky. In its defence they were brand new and had a few teething problems back then. I thought that the stock Talon was much better at the time. They have been going for quite a while now and I know that they have been refined to a much better standard and have harder needles etc, the original needle was like butter and would bend by just looking at it wrong lol. I have a stock Talon and it performs really well, I had the .25 setup installed but changed back to the .38 as it was better. I would be interested to try one of the newer Mojo's to compare them to the first models to see how they have developed. I have a Mojo II which was given to me by Rod Fuchs a few years back and is an amazing bit of kit which i favour over the talon but that's just my preference. I'm almost certain a couple of folks on here use the Mojo III with fantastic results. Hopefully they will drop a comment in.

Lee
 
When I looked at the mojo111 I thought it was going to be the brush for me ,but then I also heard it was a pain to get working correctly . I also see the vision in various kits ,with people saying about putting mojo bits in and it will be as good .mike learn and others have and do produce impressive work with the mojo and so do people who use the vision . I think the mojo is like the micron or infinity of the paasche brand , but overal its down to what suits you and fits you the best .
 
I feel guilty about this, but I have a first and second string line up.
My first string consist of three brushes.
First string line up
1. Olympos micron
2. Iwata HP-CH
3. Iwata HP-TH
Second string line up
1. Paasche Vision w/.2mm
2. Paasche Vision w/.38mm
3. Paasche Talon TS w/.66 & fan cap

After using other brands, research and more than a few ice cream season (years), I felt the need to cover a wider range of spray patterns from foreground to background and I also wanted to use my primary or first string primarily for non solvents.
 
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