Iwata HP-CP cleaning-I need GOOD ADVICE

A

Artista

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Hello again everyone,
Ive used my airbrushes moderately over the years.Ive always loved airbrush,,especially my vintage Thayer and Chandler which my parents bought for me when i was only 15 years old back in 1973.

I have been semi-active with my artwork as a side business throughout my life since the late 1970s.
I began my website last Dec 2012 and am being commissioned on a regular basis now..I am using my airbrushes much more prominently now.
It, of course, really enhances my works.

Currently I am using an Iwata HP-CP "High Performance Plus" -I loved it from the very beginning. I am having cleaning issues though as i have with my Paasches' -like the Talon.

There must be a better way of maintaining it so I dont have to do a major cleaning in which i have to take it completely apart.

I do use an Iwata Table-Top Cleaning Station along with the proper airbrush cleaners specific for the particular paints i.e. COM-ART paints, Createx, Spectra-Tex etc etc.

I am a bit frustrated ...
With my Iwata HP-CP , after i give it a complete cleaning, it still seems not to be as consistent, at times.
I usually use my airbrushes at 20 psi give or take a couple.

Im not comfortable to go too much higher than that , could that be part of my trouble?:apologetic:
 
I would think 20psi should be fine. That's about what I use my HP-CH at.
Mine doesn't spray worth a $h!t below that, but you may have a partially blocked nozzle.
I use the scuffed needle wrapped with some cotton trick in the video link below, it works really well.

 
I don't have the HP-CH but have an HP-CS, and use wicked at 20 psi. Usually I just take the needle out to clean it, then back flush the paint, empty out the cup, wipe it, then spray through with water and that is enough 98% of the time. If there is anything a bit more stubborn to deal with, then I spray laquer thinner through. Just make sure you spray enough through to completely get rid of any residue, or else it could leave a sticky gummy residue instead where it has just softened anything that is there. I very rarely strip down the entire gun, but I'm not sure what the differences are between the CH and CS.
 
I have a CH and a CP , I usually just back flush, dump and wipe, flush a few more times, then spray into a paper towel to make sure i got it all. I do notice at times the needles will stock if I have not used a particular brush for a few days but a little cleaner or reducer in the cup and a quick soak clear that right up.


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Hello guys!! Thank you so much for the quick responses!
Jagardn That was a great video you had suggested. Kirk Lybecker the Iwata Airbrush Tech did a great job at explaining the process.
Now I already do most of what he advised except for the " the scuffed needle wrapped with some cotton" ..What a great idea..thanks bro'!
I will certainly do that as well.
Now he said 15 minutes into the video that paint that comes back into the trigger housing (and chuck)
happens rather infrequently.
Not in my case!! That has been part of my problems lately.
What would cause that problem guys? Could it be that the nozzle has much more caked up paint than I know of ? I haven't used the scuffed needle technique as yet..maybe that would help?
The Iwata HP-CP has a VERY VERY SMALL nozzle. (as you know)
By the way,,what do you guys think about using Ultrasonic Cleaners for the airbrush??

Thanks again ~~ Wmlepage, Squishy, Jagardn
 
I do not as yet have an ultrasonic cleaner, but many swear by them, I will have one at some point. I have been told to get a unit that has a heat and a decent amount of cycle time to it. Also to use created restorer in it. But even soapy water will work.
 
What I don't like about the HP series is the fact that you have to unscrew the tiny nozzle if you want to clean it. Drop it and it will cost money or over tighten it and it is a big headache. Maybe the problem is that there is some dry paint in the nozzle.
 
Hello guys!! Thank you so much for the quick responses!
Jagardn That was a great video you had suggested. Kirk Lybecker the Iwata Airbrush Tech did a great job at explaining the process.
Now I already do most of what he advised except for the " the scuffed needle wrapped with some cotton" ..What a great idea..thanks bro'!
I will certainly do that as well.
Now he said 15 minutes into the video that paint that comes back into the trigger housing (and chuck)
happens rather infrequently.
Not in my case!! That has been part of my problems lately.
What would cause that problem guys? Could it be that the nozzle has much more caked up paint than I know of ? I haven't used the scuffed needle technique as yet..maybe that would help?
The Iwata HP-CP has a VERY VERY SMALL nozzle. (as you know)
By the way,,what do you guys think about using Ultrasonic Cleaners for the airbrush??

Thanks again ~~ Wmlepage, Squishy, Jagardn

If you're getting paint in the trigger area all the time, then you need to tighten you're needle bearing screw just a bit. You will need to remove all the guts from the rear of the airbrush, then use a jeweler's type screw driver to turn the needle bearing screw about 1/8 to 1/4 turn clockwise. To check the needle bearing, you should feel some resistance when you place the needle into the airbrush. If you don't feel any resistance, give it another 1/8 turn. Too much resistance, loosen it a 1/8 of a turn. As far as cleaning your airbrush, the problem is acrylic paint sticks to the inside of the nozzle very aggressively which degrades the performance of the airbrush significantly. But there is an easy fix for this, use SEM's Waterborne Gun Cleaner. This stuff is just fantastic. Just spray it into your airbrush a couple of times and its clean like new everytime. Here's a link to this stuff: SEM Products :: XXX Waterborne Gun Cleaner
 
That looks like it would be much friendlier to use than laquer thinner. Anyone know where to get the SEM gun cleaner in the uk???
 
Its nice to know that we all have HELPFUL Friend's here ! Thank you everyone for all of your suggestions!..
Canvas' That was a good thread ..
JT' I just may give that product a try! What about the use of finger nail polish remover? Kirk Lybecker the 'Iwata Airbrush Tech' strongly suggests the use of that product. Anyone use that?
Squishy ,,is it possible to find that product on Amazon?
Andre' That is the possibility...Ill be re-looking into every thing this morning.

Oh , one more thing all, Should I be using any type of sealer like bees wax for the screw in parts?


 
Beeswax or Chapstick should work on all the screw in parts. If it doesn't need to seal it will help to unscrew it next time.



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finger nail polish remover is acetone. Which is good for removing many/most types of enamel paints. To remove lacquer type paints lacquer remover is needed. Otherwise I just use water to remove water based paints.
 
Im glad to 'hear' that Squishy!! Hey, my wife and I may be visiting England next year some time, mid-year.
London to Swindon to Manchester back to London! I wanted to stop over at Liverpool but an English friend of mine told me that Liverpool is getting to be like Detroit here in the US--lol.
 
Canvas' what about Acrylic paints ? Would acetone be A-OK for that?
 
some acrylics yes, others no. the best way to find out is to test by getting a small amount of paint into a tiny container and add acetone to it. if it dissolves and thins the paint (as if you just added water) that's good. if it turns into a lumpy, goopy, squishy, clumpy, mess that's not so good (if that happed in your airbrush it would have clogged and stuck to the walls etc).

For the most part water (and a brush or cotton buds/q-tips) should be enough to clean out acrylics. if not try window cleaner that doesn't have ammonia in it.
no matter how you do it always make sure to flush it out thoroughly with tap water at the end.

:)
 
no problems :) also, don't forget to lube you airbrush after cleaning or prior to use, as necessary.
 
Thanks Canvas,,
I think Im doing an OK job at cleaning my 'brush but, like yesterday, after running the cleaner/water through and into the tabletop Cleaning station, Ill put water into the cup to shoot through and I see a lot of backup/foaming at the fluid nozzle.
I just dont know what I may be overlooking..
 
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