. 
Hahahahaha, that's how you mod.
Thanks!
Back on the tip dry thing (I know, debating milk is so much more fun, but bear with me.)
Basically, every paint ever made by any company has, at one point, advertised "zero tip dry!!!!", and they've been full of it.
When you're using an acrylic paint, which dries faster with air movement, through a device that directs compressed air, you are going to have tip dry. Some paints are better than others in that regard, but it's just a fact of life with airbrushing.
The good news is that you will eventually get so used to it, it, too, becomes second nature to clear your airbrush and pick the tip. Eventually, you just know when it's building up on instinct (which I still swear I can hear the sound change when tip dry is building up).
Polishing the needle definitely helps cut down on tip dry, I've found. A search on here will probably give far more information on polishing needles than you'd ever need. It also helps with the airbrush performance, so, IMO, it's worth the time.
Additives like E'Tac condition-air or glycerin can help tip-dry, but they also slow the dry and cure time of the paint. If you use too much, you can wait a very, very long time for it to cure (yes, I know from experience. a few times.). But, used in small amounts, they can save a lot of headaches.
Also, the wide range of reduction amounts you've seen recommended show that there simply isn't a "right" answer, other than what works best for you (which can change over time, too). It comes down to trying it out, and playing around with it. See how thick you can have it and still spray well. See how thin you can get it and still control it. Basically, just experiment with it, and find how it works best for you.
Back on the tip dry thing (I know, debating milk is so much more fun, but bear with me.)
Basically, every paint ever made by any company has, at one point, advertised "zero tip dry!!!!", and they've been full of it.
When you're using an acrylic paint, which dries faster with air movement, through a device that directs compressed air, you are going to have tip dry. Some paints are better than others in that regard, but it's just a fact of life with airbrushing.
The good news is that you will eventually get so used to it, it, too, becomes second nature to clear your airbrush and pick the tip. Eventually, you just know when it's building up on instinct (which I still swear I can hear the sound change when tip dry is building up).
Polishing the needle definitely helps cut down on tip dry, I've found. A search on here will probably give far more information on polishing needles than you'd ever need. It also helps with the airbrush performance, so, IMO, it's worth the time.
Additives like E'Tac condition-air or glycerin can help tip-dry, but they also slow the dry and cure time of the paint. If you use too much, you can wait a very, very long time for it to cure (yes, I know from experience. a few times.). But, used in small amounts, they can save a lot of headaches.
Also, the wide range of reduction amounts you've seen recommended show that there simply isn't a "right" answer, other than what works best for you (which can change over time, too). It comes down to trying it out, and playing around with it. See how thick you can have it and still spray well. See how thin you can get it and still control it. Basically, just experiment with it, and find how it works best for you.
. That's good stuff. I'll check out the condition-air! Thanks. By the way, was practicing tonight and the paint seemed to flow a lot better. I'm thankful to everyone who added their coments. At least I'm confident that it's not all operator error. I guess I'll keep pushing paint thru the brush and hope that over time I'll get the hang of it and improve!Is it the Iwata-Medea super-lube? http://www.coastairbrush.com/proddetail.asp?prod=LUBE
If so, I probably wouldn't mix that into the paint. It's meant to be used as a lube for the airbrushes packing and moving parts. If that's not it, then, nope, not familiar.
The E'Tac condition-air is the only "paint improver" I've tried, other then just straight glycerin, so I can't really say which ones work, and which don't. For me, though, Condition-air works better than glycerin, and enough for me to be fine with the price difference.
I use the stuff for tons of stuff besides just mixing with the paint, too. I use it as my airbrush lube for the needle bearing. If I want to stop for the night, but want the same colors in the same airbrushes, and don't want to clean them all, I'll add a few drops of Condition-air and a few of water, mix, then cover the paint cup. The next day, just get the paints remixed, and you're set (two warnings on this- #1 it is one sure-fire way to make sure you have to do a total tear down to get all the crap out. Well, eventually. #2- if you let any Wicked paints dry in your brush, just grab your tiny brushes and denatured alcohol, and get comfortable. It's gonna be a little while.)
If I cleaned an airbrush, but want to be sure, I'll put some condition-air in the cup, work the trigger a few times until I see the condition-air coming out the nozzle, then cap it. Most times, any bits of paint that were sticking in there are floating at the top by morning. Any that are still sticking at least aren't drying.
both !!!!....why complicate things huh??
excellent point.
mostly any experience i had with such substances never culminated in what most would call art..... more like, being resussitated in a pool of my own sweat and urine....... however many arty folk would describe the snow angel/urine/faeces/sweat angel that resulted from my moist flailing during resuss as a thing of natural beauty and "worthy of the turner prize"..... reach for the lasers kids!!
