new badger xtreme

I just got one with a new Eclipse. I LOVE the high trigger ita much easier to slightly pull back for me. I like and hate the tip of it, have to be so careful during setup, where normally ill fill cup in holder/mix paint with AB on table, this one I need to put rubber cap on it every time.
It sprays fine lines very very well, super impressed with the performance there.

Finish of the xtreme, my Iwatas and H&S put it to shame, there are small pits and swirls inside cup, which is just cosmetic so far thankfully. It cleans just fine.

Personally I'd probably pay the $15 more for the eclipse due to the better finish and tried and true design as a first AB. However their conversion on kits are much cheaper which is amazing as they are also packaged better.
 
just got myself a new badger extreme .. and i have to say its awesome. im a fan of badger airbrushes anyways but this is just amazing.

it pulls tighter smaller lines than the sotar does. the parts arnt as finicky as the krome and sotar are. the yellow is from the xtreme and the balck lines are from the sotar, (krome currently being repaired so couldn't use it as a test. )View attachment 44175View attachment 44176 View attachment 44177 View attachment 44178 View attachment 44179 View attachment 44180

is anyone else using this brush and what are your thoughts..? i have painted a picture with it and i will add that elsewhere on the site too. i found it much easier to get the small detail into though . :)


I've just received one too (together with a standard 105 Patriot). I have to say, I was never much of a Badger fan but these two brushes completely changed that.
 
Congratulations. Enjoy.

I just don't know why Badger can't thread that nozzle cap and fit a 2 prong needle cap. Maybe they are just out to make money with busted needles.

I have seen many iwata users say the same and see most of em actually removing their nozzles for closer detail. I prefer the badger design but again just a preference, not better or worse. if your careful with your brush it doesnt matter and as mentioned badger spares are in general much cheaper..looks like a nice solid gun and like the hefty look, reminds me a bit of a gravity style anthem but dunno why they bothered with a mac valve style set up but it seems thats what some users like..Up for a new brush so may give it a shot..
 
I have seen many iwata users say the same and see most of em actually removing their nozzles for closer detail. I prefer the badger design but again just a preference, not better or worse. if your careful with your brush it doesnt matter and as mentioned badger spares are in general much cheaper..looks like a nice solid gun and like the hefty look, reminds me a bit of a gravity style anthem but dunno why they bothered with a mac valve style set up but it seems thats what some users like..Up for a new brush so may give it a shot..

It is common sense to remove the cap. But with a well designed cap you do not need to remove it. to get close. Prongs just need to be a fraction longer than the protruding needle in order to protect it.

The Patriot is the gravity version of the Anthem. If I were them I would just spend some research on a decent quick coupling with build in MAC valve. Or even make a replacement for the stupid proprietary connection. They don't us it on the SATAgraph 4 so why still use it.
 
I prefer the badger design but again just a preference, not better or worse.

I's a matter of giving/allowing the user more options.

Like many others, I remove the air cap on my Iwata Eclipse when in use, and basically only use it to protect the needle when I'm not using the brush. Badger brushes come with a protective end cap (not air cap) for this purpose, so I don't really miss anything there. My SOTAR came with a pronged hold down ring, and I made a prong air cap for my Eclipse back when I first got it, but I don't use either anymore, as they do actually get in the way with ultra-close stuff (the prongs are only barely longer than the needle, but that's the needle at rest: when the needle is pulled back for spraying, it's easy to end up closer to the surface, so prongs can still get in the way)

So the the Badger way of doing this wouldn't bother me personally either...

...However, in the bigger picture I think a design that can allow more users can do as they wish with it, without generating any downsides in the process, is an objectively better design. The Iwata/H&S/Grex/etc. type nozzle cap does this. The Badger one does not, and offers no benefit in trade to justify the lack. There's nothing to actually prefer with the Badger design, because there's no advantage (it doesn't even make it lighter or simpler or more streamlined), only something not to miss if you, personally, don't use it.

The only advantage the Badger nozzle cap design confers is to make manufacturing slightly simpler for Badger. Though not likely by enough to make a cost difference to the buyer, given how the alternative is pretty standard on other brands regardless of price point.

If I were them I would just spend some research on a decent quick coupling with build in MAC valve. Or even make a replacement for the stupid proprietary connection. They don't us it on the SATAgraph 4 so why still use it.

As a SOTAR user who likes to keep the stem as short and light as possible, I'm actually quite glad for Badger's fitting, because it's significantly more space-efficient than the more standard 1/8 BSP fitting. What I like about the SOTAR (particularly the side feed) is it's pen-like handling, and a light Badger hose connected directly to the brush is very nearly like holding the brush without any hose or other fittings attached at all. Unlike the nozzle cap design, the proprietary air fitting does have an advantage. An advantage which, like with the Iwata/H&S/etc nozzle cap, is subject to preference, but an advantage that actually exists to prefer, unlike the Badger nozzle cap.

Badger already does have a both a male quick connector connector that fits other brands' female connectors (the male/female bits are standardized, so this is true of all brands), as well as a MAC valve quick connector of their own.

Is the SATGraph made by Badger, or by SATA themselves?
 
But is it made by Badger?

Not that it matters. If it is made by Badger, they're subject to SATA's design regardless of their own design preferences, and as I said above, I think the Badger fittings are defensible for Badger brushes (or the smaller ones like the SOTAR, at least).
 
Did some googling, and, wow, yeah I think you're right. Parts look the same except a few things like the trigger pad design, the preset handle, and the 1/8 air fitting. The needle chuck nut is telling: those are almost like a brand fingerprint, and the SATAGraph's looks the same as the Vega's. Also the official parts breakdown sheet is in the exact same art style as the Badger ones, like it was done by the same guy.

Hey, I wonder if there's any parts cross-compatibility there. Like, could you use SatAGraph parts on any of the Badger brushes?

Also, how "German Engineered" is it if it's just a largely cosmetic variant of a T&C/Badger design?
 
It is common sense to remove the cap. But with a well designed cap you do not need to remove it. to get close. Prongs just need to be a fraction longer than the protruding needle in order to protect it.

The Patriot is the gravity version of the Anthem. If I were them I would just spend some research on a decent quick coupling with build in MAC valve. Or even make a replacement for the stupid proprietary connection. They don't us it on the SATAgraph 4 so why still use it.

That's common sense? Not so much in my world.. The cap essentially isn't designed to be removed because its good enough to protect the needle but its removed anyway by many using iwatas so no real selling point or advantage. as Nessus mentions the Badger comes with a plastic cap to prevent damage and with the protruding needle doesn't need other caps removed to get that closeness sometimes we all like. If you leave the cap on then fair point. It may be internally but my comment about it looking anthem like is due to the apparent heftiness of the brush was all..and yer theres no issue these days spending an extra 30 seconds screwing on a hose, quick connects are fine if you like the extra weight but no all want larger hoses on badgers, one of their best advantages was always the lighter hose and just going more generic in that area isn't that useful, but we are all human and like different things but the more iwata styled they go the less chance I'll use it LOL but to the poster, how does it run? A little review of what ya think after a few days using it will help..
 
Going to update with:
Hate the QC of mine, went to swap the needle with a general size one for throwing down thicker orange over white. It required me to use friggin pliers I tried by hand with a cloth etc and wouldn't budge. Ended up stretching the o-ring because I was an idiot and used linesman pliers first, then proper needle nose. ** anyone know where to get the head o-ring??

Once the head piece came off the threads had a green colour on them like copper that had aged. The nozzle was solidly embedded as well and took a cloth and a lot of wiggling to get it out. And the metal around it had exposed metal without the accucote coating in spots.

Now im dealing with micro bubbles in the cup, both nozzles experienced this so im leaning towards they can't seat correctly, I've run cleaner brush through a few times bit still happens, might have to push nozzle in hard?

Right now though I'd say pay the extra $10-$15 for the eclipse after all this :/
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Going to update with:
Hate the QC of mine, went to swap the needle with a general size one for throwing down thicker orange over white. It required me to use friggin pliers I tried by hand with a cloth etc and wouldn't budge. Ended up stretching the o-ring because I was an idiot and used linesman pliers first.

Once the head piece came off the threads had a green colour on them like copper that had aged. The nozzle was solidly embedded as well and took a cloth and a lot of wiggling to get it out. And the metal around it had exposed metal without the accucote coating in spots.

Now im dealing with micro bubbles in the cup, both nozzles experienced this so im leaning towards they can't seat correctly, I've run cleaner brush through a few times bit still happens, might have to push nozzle in hard?

Right now though I'd say pay the extra $10-$15 for the eclipse after all this :/

I'm sorry to here this :( but I'm happy to say I already took your advice even before you even said it and took delivery of the Eclipse side feed last week:)
 
It's horses for courses, and I know badger is a great brand,and you cannot fault their customer service, but I'm an Iwata chick all the way. For sustained long term performance, reliablity and ease of cleaning and maintenance, the eclipse is in another class IMO. Having said that, I have not tried the extreme. Be good to know how it holds up over time.
 
Going to update with:
Hate the QC of mine, went to swap the needle with a general size one for throwing down thicker orange over white. It required me to use friggin pliers I tried by hand with a cloth etc and wouldn't budge. Ended up stretching the o-ring because I was an idiot and used linesman pliers first, then proper needle nose. ** anyone know where to get the head o-ring??

Once the head piece came off the threads had a green colour on them like copper that had aged. The nozzle was solidly embedded as well and took a cloth and a lot of wiggling to get it out. And the metal around it had exposed metal without the accucote coating in spots.

Now im dealing with micro bubbles in the cup, both nozzles experienced this so im leaning towards they can't seat correctly, I've run cleaner brush through a few times bit still happens, might have to push nozzle in hard?

Right now though I'd say pay the extra $10-$15 for the eclipse after all this :/

Would be worried seeing the insides like that and doesn't suggest good things. For the nozzle to be embedded into the face is even worse and suggests at some point it was tightened way to hard, orings could probably be found easy enough in an oring kit but as a specific size is likely required ya may need to look at Badger parts sellers or a really good bearing shop you may get lucky..as the oring is buggered it may let some air in if that's a nozzle seal and cause some issues, perhaps a little wax or chap stick etc may help that issue but would still be concerned about the future running of it. Personally I'd be dropping Badger a line and saying what you've found to them..
 
Would be worried seeing the insides like that and doesn't suggest good things. For the nozzle to be embedded into the face is even worse and suggests at some point it was tightened way to hard, orings could probably be found easy enough in an oring kit but as a specific size is likely required ya may need to look at Badger parts sellers or a really good bearing shop you may get lucky..as the oring is buggered it may let some air in if that's a nozzle seal and cause some issues, perhaps a little wax or chap stick etc may help that issue but would still be concerned about the future running of it. Personally I'd be dropping Badger a line and saying what you've found to them..

Going to try teflon tape and see, I did email badger CS over a week ago, Candy forwarded my email off to Ken and Techs but havent heard back in about a week now. I posted in the retailers review section day after seeing that.
 
Going to update with:
Hate the QC of mine, went to swap the needle with a general size one for throwing down thicker orange over white. It required me to use friggin pliers I tried by hand with a cloth etc and wouldn't budge. Ended up stretching the o-ring because I was an idiot and used linesman pliers first, then proper needle nose. ** anyone know where to get the head o-ring??

Once the head piece came off the threads had a green colour on them like copper that had aged. The nozzle was solidly embedded as well and took a cloth and a lot of wiggling to get it out. And the metal around it had exposed metal without the accucote coating in spots.

Now im dealing with micro bubbles in the cup, both nozzles experienced this so im leaning towards they can't seat correctly, I've run cleaner brush through a few times bit still happens, might have to push nozzle in hard?

Right now though I'd say pay the extra $10-$15 for the eclipse after all this :/
I had this same exact problem with mine. It worked fine until I tried to change sizes. Then the micro bubbles started every time I pressed for air. So I bought a couple extra nozzles thinking maybe I had a defective one and still same issue. I ended up just applying a very thin layer of beeswax and it stopped. Other than that issue I will say it is a very nice AB, I like it more than my krome. I've never owned and Iwata since my first brush was a badger I just kept buying them, mainly because of the parts compatibility between certain models. Looking back I wish i would have just went with iwata from the beginning.
 
I have a sotar and i think its pretty good and easily pulls a nice fine line but is finicky with the thickness of the paint. I haven't had any issues with it at all apart from the paint flow issue which i solved with experimentation into reductions. My iwata's are the same, no problems with them and have never let me down apart from issues with paint. So i like them both.
There's a show on just outside Lincoln UK on 3rd and 4th Sept called the Kustom Kulture Blast Off or KKBO, Ken Badger is usually there and sells his airbrushes at discount, i think they were around £50 - £60 for the Chrome and Sotar as well as other models and they also sell Spectra-Tex and Minitaire paints, it's £10 to get in and its not a bad day out if you're not too far away.

Lee
 
Sounds like fun but I am kind of far away from there. I'm all the way across the pond in New Jersey, USA:). But thank you for the info
 
Back
Top