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paulcouk

Guest
Hi
I have heard on video the person saying " Ive got white Ive got it over reduced " I know what over reduced means but how much thinning do I use ....I have transparent white but don't know how much reducer do I put in it...( I know it sounds like how long is a piece of string)
I had a new brush ( in for a penny in for a pound ) its a custom micron it is gravity fed it has a screw under the cup what is it for, it has a cut away in the handle how do I use it
I know it tells me what it is in the book but docent say how to use it
 
Hi Paul, welcome to the forum.

I will answer your questions as much as i can.

The little screw under the cup is a Mac valve It stands for Micro Air Control, Say you have 40 psi running through the brush but if you turn the mac valve in it will reduce the air coming out of your brush from 40 to ) psi. I have a mac valve on my airline, nothing on my airbrush. The cut away is for access to the needle chuck so you can pull the needle back to flush the paint without removing the handle but you wont have to do that much.

Thinning your paint is a tricky one, it depends on what paint you use, what airbrush you have and what psi you are spraying at. I for instance will reduce my Etac efx white 3 to 1, 1 drop of paint to 3 drops of water. Other brands of paint are different, its a case of experimenting but i would start with 1 drop of paint to 4 drops of water or thinners, see how it sprays and covers, and adjust as necessary. As a rule of thumb, the thinner your paint the lower the psi, you can lower the psi with your mac valve under the cup until it sprays how you want it to. Another thing is ALWAYS use an airbrush specific paint, the pigment is ground much finer.

I hope this has helped.

Lee
 
It sounds like yo u have a micron with a mac valve. This means you can control your air pressure from your brush. You can set your regulator to the highest amount of air you are likely to need, then fine with your mac valve. Its a bit intuative as you don't know exactly what psi you are using, but you know when its fully open it is no higher than the pressure set on your compressor regulator. It just gives you a more flexible and convenient air adjustment.
The cut away just gives you access to your needle, so that if needed you can pull the needle back and give a blast of air to clear the nozzle. Once you have your reductions nailed you probably wont need it too much.

As far as reduction goes, that really a how long is a piece of string question. There is no hard and fast reduction formula as there are too many variables. You need to get either a smooth spray pattern without grainyness or spidering etc for fades and blends, or a crisp clean line for detail. So start by over reducing, doing a test then adding reducer drop, by drop testing each time, lowering the pressure as needed the more you reduce until you get the flow you want. Make a note as this will become a base mixture in future, but depending on conditions or the colour being used, you may need to tweak it with a drop or two more or less reducer. Its something you develop a feel for, and doesn't take long, but you need to be fairly methodical to start.

Edit :) looks like Lee beat me too it, he must type faster lol.
 
Answered above but will add, over-reduction is a silly term we all use that makes no sense at all, just like the milk consistency term, probably just left overs in area's that are hard to define or no better definition exists...like whats milks consistency and are we talking full cream or fat reduced LOL..Over reduction is literally any reduction beyond full bottle strength and is commonly used more though to describe high reductions of 10-1 or more, which are only useful at very low pressure work or if you want an extremely light paint density and that over reduction idea is generally used to describe anything to 10-1 right up to 100-1 to pick some numbers for you but others may view it differently..not that you'll see much out of a 100-1 reduction LOL, it is though common to also just use the terms "x" amount reduced.
 
Just be careful when reducing at high amounts of reducer to paint ratios because it will be vary easy to cause fisheyes and spidering. This when the fluid is too much for your paper or hard surface to absorb. It is even mor critical on hard surfaces like automotive work.

The cut away handle is do easy access to the needle so you can flush out the nozzle without dismantling the back of the brush.

One more thing about using reducer is that it increases the flash point of the paint which can cause tip dry. The best thing is to use only as much as needed get the paint flowing through the needle and nozzle. Otherwise use a brush with a larger needle and nozzle if you are using thicker paint.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hi Fred, Ninja Rebelair and Lee...
First of all..Dose the paint have a shelf live..The paint is two years old..
I am use Createx transparent, and Illustration,
I am in South west Wales.
I had a stroke a couple of years ago... I couldn't talk read write for a few a few month's..but a lot of work I'm alight now,
my speech is not alright yet but i get through the day...I relay on the on the spelling checker so if my posting sounds a bit strange you will know why.

I first started learning air brushing about two years ago..I was on the internet finding out about painting my bike...and came across the painting people had done and all the how to do video's..and I was too then...in the back of my mind I could see me painting sculls on my bike,
I did knot get very far I was foiling a "" how to do it" on a group the winter came and went, I was still learning when the spring came along...

I'm retired now but I bread peregrines for a living now, I bread by AI and it spring I am very busy with the birds
I kept the paint and brushed ( that is why they are 2 years old the brushes where on ebay, and I when I first started I was using a ordenery
a loud one. I have a perched small compressor it came with 2 brushes with it...so when I got the paint out again I used the brushing that came with the compressor ( again i wasn't not very good at air brushing ) so I blamed the brushing, (So I thought in for a penny in for a pound )
(Im going to continue learning this time ) so I looked for a brush that was going to be better ( my wife docent know how much it cost)
but now I have got no excuses

Im am using prices of hardboard cut to size painted with blue..and I can rubber the paint off to start again
I have printed paper with the strokes on you can fowling all the strokes on it dagger strokes lines. dotted,
I have watched hundred of "how to do it"

Thank's to the replies I'm understanding my brush, so thank you...
Paul
 
Most paints do have a limited shelflife @paulcouk being that most are made with organic compounds. But saying that I have very old paint too LOL. Some of its nearly as old as my airbrushing career is and thats some 15+ years. Still use it if needed but some's got a funky smell so I do avoid using it. Just cant bring myself to throw anything that costs money away LOL, must be the Scot in me ;) Also it paints very grainy due to the binders and such being destroyed and likely smells due to it having bred its own culture. In that case I'd suggest a good mask as atomizing bacteria and the like isn't a good thing, especially as it goes straight into the lungs. 2 years though if they have been sealed isn't a huge time span and most should still be OK but give it a real good shake, strain it well and if it does smell weird consider some new paint when you can. Most of mines been diluted with water and that helps add those bacteria and the like. I would consider though if you notice any issues at all to just use it as practice paint and when your ready to paint your bike, consider some fresh stuff, buying direct from the manufacture normally ensures its a fresh batch.

Sorry to hear about your stroke and no stress on the spelling, I have no excuse and still rely on spellcheck at times LOL. Best of luck with it and don't hesitate to pick some brains here if needed.
 
I have the custom micron without the mac valve, it is amazing, you will love it. Finding the best paint reduction can be ver frustrating, but stick with it, once you have that everything else becomes much easier.

As for shelf life, it can have an effect as Rebel says. But how it is stored can too. I have had a brand new bottle that had been exposed to extreme temps which just wouldn't play - the company replaced it no problem, but if your paint has been stored anywhere it may have got too hot or cold, it may be affected. If not then its probably fine. Some do seperate a bit, but thats fine.
 
Thank you for your help guy's

The think I get stuck on is going over the same lines..Ill try and explain
I am using createx transparent, I do a line that is lite and I have to do it again, that is my fault and I'm going to have to try and get use to it...
I smelt the paint, I have a new bottle white transparent and I think the smell just the same. They have stored in a out side in a concrete shed.
I am trying createx transparent with 2 drops of W500 reducer and see how it goes ( I am getting a lot of dry tip ) with 1 to 3 of the same stuff and I think spidering.
Thank for your help
Paul
 
waterbased paints are best stored inside the house in a place with no big temp. variations . and welcome to the madhouse from the Netherlands sorry to hear you had a stroke with that much damage , mine was not that bad but left me with a blind spot and I dont catch all threads on here
 
Thank you for your help guy's

The think I get stuck on is going over the same lines..Ill try and explain
I am using createx transparent, I do a line that is lite and I have to do it again, that is my fault and I'm going to have to try and get use to it...
Don't be too hard on yourself, transparents are meant to be built up in layers, that's how you get the best fades blends and colours happening, makes it trickier for lines, but you'll get it. :)
 
Another question..the brush The bit in the center part of the brush that holds the spring, it has a screw tread on it,..is it suppose to be screwed all the way in ? it got blocked to day and I taken a part to clean it, and it way screw was only half way..( the brush is micron cm plus)
Ive been practice all day and getting nowhere fast, it nearly went in the bin a few times..
Paul
 
The micron lads and ladies well better know for you m8, Depends exactly what thread your talking about though..The tinny little one on the needle clamp, some brands have a needle adjustment right on back and some have a spring tensioner in the rear trigger assembly and some may have others that look different for similar needs pending on the brand..If you can take a photo of which one you mean it may help better. I think your talking about the trigger spring tensioner and that's something that can be adjusted to personal taste, but may be guessing on the wrong part as I'm not a micron user if thats the gun you have and likely better around to answer it for you..
 
The screw that holds the spring in adjusts the tension on the trigger. You can adjust this to your preference.
Unfortunately, there is a learning curve with the airbrush. But, be patient, and it will all come together for you. We have all felt the frustrations that comes with learning. You have purchased a really nice brush. I have two micron CM-C plus brushes, a micron CM-SB-v2 as well as two HP-CS brushes and a HP-SBS and they all work beautifully. I must say though, that the CM-C and the CM-SB brushes have smaller needles and requires a bit more reduction in paint. I don't know what kind of paint you are using but you might want to make sure you filter the paint before putting in into your AB. It could be that the trouble you are having with your brush is either not enough reduction or bits of paint flakes that are blocking your nozzle.

It will take a bit of playing with your AB to get the right reduction and psi combination that works for you. Unfortunately, there is no one formula that will work for everyone as has been said above, there are many variations. Paint, climate and humidity are all factors as well as the surface you are painting on. But, here are a few tips. If you spray your paint and you get a grainy pattern, either increase the reduction of your paint or increase the psi. If you are getting spidering pattern then you either have to reduce your psi, move faster, or add more paint to your mix. I hope this helps. :)
 
I think it is the trigger tensioner too, but pics will help. Also post some pics of what you have been painting, doesn't matter if its scribbles, splats or whatever. We may be able to see how your paint is laying down and advise on reduction. You could try looking closely at a dot. Is it perfectly round, is paint going more to one area than another? This is one indicator of a dirty nozzle. IMO most issues that cause newbies to get frustrated are due to a dirty or blocked nozzle, especially when you are playing around finding the right ratios. If you gently move your needle in and out by hand and it feels spongy or sticky, then that is another indicator. Even if you clean it and it looks clean, doesn't mean it is. You wont believe what can hide in there. When I think its clean, I clean again, and am often glad I did. Stick with it, once you have your paint sorted, you will rarely have that problem. And when you have good flow, everything becomes much easier.
 
I hope I'm doing this right IMG_0398.JPG IMG_0394.JPG IMG_0395.JPG
A pic of the brush open closed a pic off my mess..
I think Cheryl is right about the brush "You can adjust this to your preference."" thank you Cheryl
I know it a bit silly of me buying the brush but I thought it would be better than me buying a brush and then buying a more expensive brush and then a more expensive brush..Shuss don't tell my wife
Ive been fowling a video on utube that seems like it is easy before I tried it ( another day gone and still a mess)
Ive uploaded the thumbnail photo but i don't know if they will be alright
Ive done 1 to 1 with the white transparent and to me there docent seem a lot of difference.frustrated I can think of more ways to say it...
Paul
 
first off all white is a hard color to spray and it takes practice to get it to spray to way you want it to spray , you are right about the tension adjusting, to me less tension means more control but that is personal.
painting flames is not easy at all , it is all in your mind and you need to "see" it before you start painting and follow the direction of the flames you have in your mind but remember flames have no set pattern they are all over the place .
I find flames one of the hardest things to paint and when I do practice runs I get bored with it real fast so results are real poor and I never show them ;)
 
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