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Discussion in 'Troubleshooting!' started by Hardlec, Jan 27, 2017.


  1. Hardlec

    Hardlec Young Tutorling

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    I have a double action gravity fed brush, I don't know the brand.
    I had used Vallejo color master gold thinned with Vallejo Airbrush thinner. The paint did not come out.
    I have thoroughly cleaned the brush, disassembled, brushed the nozzle, wiped down the needle, brushed out the air duct from the hose to the nozzle, reassembled and tried to run some Airbrush cleaner through the brush, but nothing comes out but air.

    Bubbles come into the reservoir if I cover the tip.

    I will get some fluid out if I pump the trigger.

    There are still tiny flecks of gold floating in the reservoir.

    HELP!
  2. MeeshellMP

    MeeshellMP Goddess Queen of carts Mod

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    If there is still gold flecks, you have a back up.
    Hardlec likes this.
  3. JackEb

    JackEb The Dragon Hunter Staff Member Admin

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    You need more cleaning.
    You will always get bubbles if you cover the tip, it's called backflushing.
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  4. musicmacd

    musicmacd Air-Valve Autobot! Very Likeable!

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    Yeah vallejo is evil!!! Get some airbrush flow improver - works so much better than thinner. Check out Next Level Painting on you tube :)
    Hardlec likes this.
  5. Basstrack238

    Basstrack238 Needle-chuck Ninja

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    I noticed metallic tends to need special attention in airbrush. They tend to clog depending on flake size and carrier. Gotta watch the mix, all that flake can sink if your viscosity isn't right, then it sits at bottom of cup and clogs up the works. Plus if you have a very small tip it makes problem worse. Best bet clean everything up really well and test with water to see if it's your airbrush or the paint. I hope this helps.
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  6. Squishy

    Squishy Queen Clown Slayer Mod

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    Metallics really like a larger nozzle size, you really want a .5 or larger. And flakes popping up means there is still old paint in the nozzle. This is fairly common at first with any kind of paint, let alone gold, as people don't realise what it takes to clean a nozzle, and believe me we've pretty much all been there lol. Stuff hides in there, even when you think you've cleaned it. With a metallic through a smaller nozzle (if that is what you have), it is even easier for stuff to build up in there. The gold showing back up is a sure fire sign, but paint not coming through, or needing the trigger pulled back farther than normal, or bubbles without blocking the end (although there are other reasons for that too) , paint not flowing properly, or undoing the needle chuck and gently moving the needle in and out by hand and getting a spongy or sticky (or stuck) feeling, means your nozzle has some junk left in there.

    You probably need to soak your nozzle in restorer, (watch out for any seals, which I'm guessing won't b teflon if its not a branded brush) and then super gently clean out any old paint, being careful not to flare the nozzle or scratch or damage the inside. Some people use interdental brushes, or fine paintbrushes, or whittled down cocktail sticks. You may need to do this a few times as just because it looks clean, doesn't mean i is.
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  7. Hardlec

    Hardlec Young Tutorling

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    I bought a new set of nozzle cleaning brushes today, I will thoroughly clean the channel between the actual tip and the reservoir, using the theory that a new broom sweeps clean. I dip the brush in cleaner to help the process.
    I will use a toothpick on the tip.
    Before leaving in the AM I will set the brush, disassembled, in airbrush cleaner. In the early afternoon I will flush everything in water, then see if water will flow through the brush.
    Metallic paint will be applied with a regular brush.
    Progress reports will follow.

    Thanks


    Sent from my NS-P10A6100 using Tapatalk
  8. JackEb

    JackEb The Dragon Hunter Staff Member Admin

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    If the cleaning brushes have the metal core then be extremely careful. They will damage the inside of the nozzle /airbrush very easily. If you soak in restorer the the artist brush and interdental brushes (Plastic core. In the toothbrush aisle) will be all you need.
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  9. musicmacd

    musicmacd Air-Valve Autobot! Very Likeable!

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    When my brushes get blocked beyond normal cleaning I use Acetone to melt anything in the line, obviously it's not a recommended thing to don it It works for me
  10. Hardlec

    Hardlec Young Tutorling

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    I soaked everything in water for a couple hours and then cleaned the brush. I found paint in the trigger area, and in the nozzle.
    Thanks for the help.

    Sent from my MotoE2(4G-LTE) using Tapatalk
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  11. JackEb

    JackEb The Dragon Hunter Staff Member Admin

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    Water bath isn't ideal. It won't break down most paint, let alone paint that is normally reduced with thinners. Don't be surprised if the brush clogs again very quickly.
    Remove all seals from the nozzle and give the nozzle a good soak in something appropriate (and don't lose the seals)
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  12. Hardlec

    Hardlec Young Tutorling

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    Water bath isn't ideal. It won't break down most paint, let alone paint that is normally reduced with thinners. Don't be surprised if the brush clogs again very quickly.<br />Remove all seals from the nozzle and give the nozzle a good soak in something appropriate (and don't lose the seals)

    Indeed, agreed. I located my restorer and will give my brush a bath in that after the next session.
    I'm intimidated by the notition of removing seals.

    Sent from my NS-P10A6100 using Tapatalk
  13. JackEb

    JackEb The Dragon Hunter Staff Member Admin

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    If they're Teflon the can stay on
  14. Hardlec

    Hardlec Young Tutorling

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    I have a solvent based on orange peels. It is tough on paint, I use it to strip paint off plastic figures, but mild or maybe selective enough it doesn't eat the plastic. I may try it if the clog returns.

    Sent from my NS-P10A6100 using Tapatalk

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