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olympos sp-b nozzle question

Discussion in 'Airbrushes' started by Lt4-396, Aug 6, 2017.


  1. DaveG

    DaveG Mac-Valve Maestro! Very Likeable!

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    The reason for changing the guts of the brush is not because of the needle diameter, but the trigger feel and action. The Micron uses a very different chucking guide, chuck, and spring retainer than the 100sb, and allows for a feel not obtainable with the 100sb through simple adjustments... Buying a 200b Irregular B grade as well as the 100sb is cheaper than the sum of the minimum parts listed above. The trigger action of the 200b is far superior to the 100 series... You will never add an Iwata part to an Olympos brush and have something that works better than it did before. Nothing against Iwata, I love their brushes, but they are designed to work where they are put.

    All that being said, through this effort, you will create a brush that works nice, and smooth. Should have good atomization, nice paint lay down, and work at relatively low PSI (Like I said - I have the 200b, and it is a very nice, little brush - with all this conversion stuff, all you are talking about doing is piecing together what would be a 200sb, if Olympos offered it). This is still not a Micron, in my opinion.
    Last edited: Aug 29, 2017
  2. DaveG

    DaveG Mac-Valve Maestro! Very Likeable!

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    Here is the Olympos hp200b laying on top of one of my Iwata HP-B+'s. The Olympos is @ .2" shorter nozzle to trigger than the Iwata, body is also shorter before the handle connection as well. It is a small brush, than handles very nicely. The Olympos does use the same internal parts as the Micron (which I also mod'ed the Iwata with). It also uses the same nozzle and needle as a Micron at .18. Interesting note here - the Olympos is a brush that works much softer than the Iwata, which is a .2 set up. There is much less air being expelled out of the Olympos at any given set air pressure, it is quieter to use, and produces a wonderfully soft spray pattern. The hole in the air cap on the Olympos is actually noticeably larger than that on the Iwata...
    olympos-and-iwata-hpb.jpg
    Last edited: Aug 30, 2017
  3. Lt4-396

    Lt4-396 Gravity Guru

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    Anybody know the condition of the b grade stuff? It's worth it to buy the mp200b as b grade for the head system and needle alone.

    I will be ordering a nozzle cap for the hp-62 and am thinking about ordering 2 or 3 b grade mp200b but don't want them if they are trash.
    To me "b grade" means there is a small blemish or scratch in the chrome plating but not an actual defect with the way the brush performs.

    I will be ordering a few different parts and spares while I'm at it so if anyone in the usa wants a part from olympos I can order it with my purchase then snail mail it to you if your interested.
  4. Lt4-396

    Lt4-396 Gravity Guru

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    I just realized the 200-b is not the mp200b, their site is extremely confusing. If they had an American redo their site I feel like more people would order.
  5. DaveG

    DaveG Mac-Valve Maestro! Very Likeable!

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    The 200b in my photo is a "b" grade. I have purchased several, and the worst one had a slight glitch in the trigger movement - if you applied side force to it while pulling it back - it turned out to be "chatter" marks on the inner edge of the trigger slot - smoothed it out with a file, and never looked back... I don't think the MP is offered in "b" grade though. The MP200B is the original Micron, which is what is now the Iwata CM-B. The irregular "b" grade 200b listed on the Olympos site is their hp200b. Non-removeable head, it is basically Olympos version of Iwata's HP-B... they are very similar.
  6. DaveG

    DaveG Mac-Valve Maestro! Very Likeable!

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    There has been several people try, but it seems to me they have zero interest in creating a more user friendly business. I have gotten just enough response from the owner to know that I personally choose not to try to do any sort of business with them - beyond just buying what I want. There is zero after sales support of any sort...
  7. Lt4-396

    Lt4-396 Gravity Guru

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    If the 200-b is the same as the iwata hp-b then what is the olympos hp-100-b equivalent to?
    I thought the olympos hp-100-a,b,sb was identical to the iwata hp-a,b,sb?

    Lol it just gets more and more confusing.
  8. Lt4-396

    Lt4-396 Gravity Guru

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    Is the only difference between the olympos hp-100-b and the 200-b the length of the body?
  9. DaveG

    DaveG Mac-Valve Maestro! Very Likeable!

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    no, all the parts between the 100 and 200 are different. The 200 is a nicer brush than the 100

    I should also mention that I have a couple 100's, and I do not use them much. I find them to be a bit finicky with paint initiation, and they just don't have the same feel as the upper tier brushes from Olympos. The 200 by comparison, is a very nice brush - but lack of support from the company keeps me from recommending them more often.
    Last edited: Aug 30, 2017
  10. Lt4-396

    Lt4-396 Gravity Guru

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    But the 200-b parts fit the 100sb? You said earlier you put the 200-b parts into your 100sb.

    I think I'm going to give the 200-a a go and order 2. For $70 it's worth it for the nozzle and needle if they are the same as the micron which being .18 I would assume they are.

    I really wish I could use normal " b &c" gravity feeds but I am limited to side feeds and a cups.
  11. Chris the Cabbie

    Chris the Cabbie Young Tutorling

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    I think that is why Frank Artale-Olympos used the Micron internals when he assembled my Frankenbrush/Micron from the Olympos 100SB. I do know that the base 100SB out performs my Iwata Eclipse SBS and the Iwata IS based on the 100SB! As for the needles and shank diameter. I don't think it really matters as it would be negligible and sorted by a 1/4 turn on your PTFE needle bearing. If you guys want, I could teardown mine and post a pic of the parts?
    Regards
    Chris the cabbie
    "No matter where you go, there you are "
  12. DaveG

    DaveG Mac-Valve Maestro! Very Likeable!

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    I would not think the Eclipse is based on the Olympos 100series - more like the Iwata HP, and now the HP+ brushes are more closely related - the Eclipse is something all together different.
  13. Lt4-396

    Lt4-396 Gravity Guru

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    Yea the eclipse is a different brush altogether and is not based on any olympos brush.
  14. DaveG

    DaveG Mac-Valve Maestro! Very Likeable!

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    differences between Olympos 100 and 200 models -
    The Olympos 100 (in this case the 100"a") -
    olympos-100-exploded.jpg

    The Olympos 200 (in this case the 200"b")
    olympos-200-exploded.jpg
    The 200 models use a different needle chuck, chucking guide, spring retainer, trigger, air valve, air valve spring, needle spring, nozzle, air cap, needle cap, and needle vs. the 100 series. All of the parts, minus the actual trigger(s) are interchangeable between the two models, as far as I can tell. The action, and atomization on the 200 model is much nicer than that of the standard 100.

    Nozzles are different between the two (the 200 is on the right/top) - the 100 being a .2, the 200 being a .18. Needle taper between the two is a slightly different, but wire size identical. The 200 taper is a tad longer, with a smoother transition into the full diameter of the wire. The outer contour on the nozzles also varies, which I assume works to control air flow over it, within the air cap. The air caps also vary, with the 200's having an internal "tube" which seriously cuts down on free space within the head, and directs the air much closer along the nozzle as compared to the 100. (The 100 is almost identical to Iwata HP and HP+ specs). The air channel in the brush body of the 200 is also a smaller diameter than the 100's...
    100-200-nozzles.jpg

    As a comparison, you can see the 200 head pieces taper down much thinner than the 100's -
    olympos-100over200.jpg

    Bringing this all back to the start of the conversation - I can see how combining the parts of a 200(many of which are the same as the Micron), with the body of a side feed 100 (or 100sb) could produce a brush that works quite nicely. You would be spraying through the same nozzle, using the same needle as a Micron. I personally would not call it one, because of the differences in head design/air flow - but having experience with the way the 200B works, I have complete faith it would be a delightful brush to work with. A bit softer perhaps then an Iwata HP SB+, but maybe not quite as versatile.
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  15. Lt4-396

    Lt4-396 Gravity Guru

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    Wow thank you so much for the detail and pics, that's very helpful.

    Well ill be ordering a hp-62 nozzle and two 200-a brush plus a needle or two.

    Does anyone know if the ptfe seal from the iwata hp+ line fits the olympos hp-100 line, what about a micron ptfe seal in a 200 series since it uses the same needle.

    I really don't like having the original rubber seal in my sb.
  16. DaveG

    DaveG Mac-Valve Maestro! Very Likeable!

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    I
    I'll check a bit later on - on the Olympos brushes - some may come with a PTFE seal, but I would not count on it. If you ask, they will say "it depends on date of manufacture", but "won't know until they ship your order" - so no help. I think, but am not sure, that the actual seal is the same between the HP, and Micron (Iwata) although the way they are held in place is completely different...
  17. DaveG

    DaveG Mac-Valve Maestro! Very Likeable!

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    Set screws/needle packing screws are not quite the same between PTFE and Rubber O-ring sealed brushes. Olympos or Iwata - the set screw that holds the needle packing in place is the same size and thread pitch, but different shape to accommodate the type of seal -

    Iwata (PTFE) on the left, Olympos with rubber o-ring on the right. The PTFE retainer has a cup at the front to support the seal OD. Without it, I think you would just distort the seal, and ruin it if you tried to install - like trying to use the set screw from the Olympos which only has to make contact with the rubber O-ring
    needle-packing-2.jpg

    Iwata left, Olympos right - you can see the PTFE seal fits into the set screw/retainer
    needle-packing-1.jpg
  18. Nessus

    Nessus Gravity Guru

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    Thank you so much for your detailed replies, DaveG. Your posts have answered a lot of questions for me, and helped a lot in making a decision.

    Based on this I'm now considering a B-grade 200A and forgoing the 100SF conversion altogether. By comparing your pics with those in AndreZF's review of the 100SF, it looks like the 100SF doesn't actually have a shorter front than the 100 or 200 A or B, meaning all of them are within a mm or two of the CM-SB's front length. If that is correct (is it?), then going to the extra cost of an SF frankenbrush would be unnecessary. I'd be wanting this as a detail brush only, so the small cup size of the A model isn't an issue for me I think, based on paint consumption rates I observe using my SOTAR for the same.
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  19. DaveG

    DaveG Mac-Valve Maestro! Very Likeable!

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    There is a bit of an unknown ordering the "B" grades, only because there can be some variation from brush to brush. The ones I have purchased have been good to excellent - so I hope your experience follows that trend! I can tell you, I have quite a few brushes, and will say that the 200B is one I really enjoy. The "A" cup holds more than enough paint to do lots of detail work...

    I did a bit of comparison on "A" cup brushes on my FB page - you may be able to get some info out of it. It is public so you should be able to see everything. Just click on each of the photo's in the album to see the information attached to each.

    https://www.facebook.com/pg/davegs.airbrush.exploration/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1160362540735999
  20. Vladimir

    Vladimir Mac-Valve Maestro!

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    One photo explains a lot;) I'd never guessed that from looking at the AB body.
    Dave, are the air nozzles interchangeable between 100 and 200 series?
    How do you find 200 compared to CM in control of starting the paint flow and pulling thin lines?

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