C
Cinder
Guest
You sound sooo frustrated, I feel your pain....if you haven't contacted the company yet you might want to consider trying, they might be able to help you out. Just a thought!
sorry guys i been so busy practicing i forgot i even started this thread but heres why THIS PAASCHE VL IS A PIECE OF MOTHERFAT FACES SUGAR HONEY ICE TEA
1. i have to use so much more force or initially start to push the button down to start the whole double action sequence (simply pushing down on the trigger) 2.to push down and pull back to get the smallest iddy biddy amount it feels like the gun is real stick paasche vl is a fairly easy airbrush to break down compared to my harbor freights gun so cleaning it is no biggie...also i dont really care for the way the tip is designed and its constantly leaking air out the side where u screw on top of the tip tried to use teflon tape didnt help dont wanna use tread lock because its a part thats contantly being taken a part to be cleaned the kit came with three needs vl-1 vl-3 and vl-5 being that the airbrush itself is so thick it feels like im holding on to a thick crayon
and the paint always come out different to the point i have a notebook of everytime i use paint with reducer on whatever airpressure i set my compressor on to use....been documenting since the first time i had to clean it...and let me tell u what works on monday doesnt work on tuesday its a constant headache regardless of what tip i use what needle i use i document it to the point i feel like im in chemistry class again (going to school for nursing) when i reduce my CREATEX or SPECTRA airbrush paint
somebody earlier said its not the sword its the knight
you right i dont need a konan sword i need a KATANA light nimble agile so i can be swift with my cuts and slashes (hows that for an analogy)
its sadd that my 17.00 HARBOR FREIGHT airbrush give me better results that this PIECE OF CRAP PAASCHE VL JUNK maybe i should try there talon...but than again do i really wanna get jammed up with another piece of junk EVERYBODY USING IWATA OOOOKAY tomorrow so will i one thing about me is if it works for everybody else it will work for me and if it dont than i know its me not the gun.... i need 2 guns one for fine line detail and one for overall needs i mainly do helmets and motorcycles just started doing t-shirts
Ive been airbrushing for 2 years now, 1 year using a chinese garbage clone, but it learnt me airbrushing, if would have used my iawata since the start id still do crap when i begun, u just have to learn to use it, I'm small on budget, but id love to add a vl to my set up.
My point is that ur just going to have to learn, a high dollar gun wont make u better or improve without learning, the vl is a perfect gun off high quality, it like pinstriping, 1000 practise strokea before u can pull decent stuff, 1000s of lines daggers dot before u can do good.
If airbrushing was easy everyone would do it.
There might be something wrong with your brush - for sure. I'm starting to learn again on a Paasche VJR - an old one that I've salvaged from spare parts and throw-aways. Back in the day I had a Badger 150 (stolen) and it never missed a beat - but I didn't have to pay attention to it. It was an appliance. My VJR - not an appliance at all. It's a Ferrari. I like working with it because it's teaching me patience. It's slowing me down. It's forcing me to get my techniques down right. I have to change, I have to grow. It's a lot more work but I'm okay with that. Paasches are notoriously touchy, but the payoff is usually pretty high. This may not be your style - so keep that in mind too.
Good luck.
I've written this before in this forum and through personal experience and hearing other people who owned older generation Paasche airbrushes, the old Paasches are excellent, but the new generation is crap. The VJR and V#1 used to be among the best guns to do detailed work, but the new generation V#1 I recently bought was not good at all (the paint cup's stub was too long and blocked the needle and the air cap / nozzle / needle rocker parts were not aligned). The new V series also do not have the useful adjusting wheel in front of the trigger anymore (for some obscure reason), they are lighter than the old types and spray worse. Paasches new factory made 'polished' needles are quite rough when you look at them under a magnifying glass or microscope and will not improve spraying a lot (which they should). If you want to buy a good Paasche, buy one from at least before the turn of the century.
Working slow and accurate is something I like as well; it brings out your best where handling skills are concerned. Commercial artists usually hate working at a low pace, but I can always instantly tell if an airbrush is sprayed in one or two passes (layers) or in many that were cautiously applied, just by looking at the work.
I remember reading your comments - I don't have any experience with the new stuff. I am going out today to try to buy a new head/tip setup for mine as the smaller size is damaged - is the poor quality manufacturing effecting general parts as well? hope not - the needle I have is bent like you would not believe!
I have the VJR - I got it in 1993 maybe? it was older and was supposed to go back to the factory (friend of mine worked at an art supply store) - I knew what the problem was, offered to fix it and instead he just gave me a great deal on it. I also have an H that I bought in '99 or so and it's solid too. I needed a 'blunt instrument' brush for painting large areas with heavier paint - and it's exceptionally good.
It's a real shame that the quality has slipped that much...I'd love to eventually work my way up to an AB turbo...
I am afraid the quality of general parts has dropped too. I still have spare needles for the V-series from decades ago and they are of a better material than the current ones. And with regard to the factory polished needles, anyone prepared t spend a small amount of time polishing standard needles can do a better job (using sand paper grid 1200, 2000 and 3000). The Turbo (the ones from the old generation, I am not familiar with the current models) is an excellent tool, but it requires a lot of fiddling and logical thinking to tune it properly. It is suited to spray fine lines, dots and controlled spattering, but it is of no use to spray larger areas - the amount of paint it is capable of spraying and the modest volume of the paint cup puts a limit on this type of use. If you want to get a more versatile airbrush for approximately the same amount of money I would go for the Iwata Custom airbrushes. They spray (almost) as fine lines as the Turbo and are also capable of spraying larger areas, plus it is less picky with regard to the paints it can process (the Turbo only likes finely pigmented paints). But if you're a fine detail maniac like me and don't worry too much about how much time it will take to complete a painting, you will love the Turbo once you figured out how to adjust it properly.