paint straining?

[IPT]

Are you guys straining your paint? Seems like it'd be sort of crazy since I usually paint very small and seem to add only a few drops at a time. None the less I cannot seem to get a consistent spray! I think my trigger control is decent, if not good. However I seem to get no spray then bursts more then I'd like. That or it just seems like I need to pull back different amounts to get paint to spray. Even just drawing a line (usually when I'm testing the spray because I'm getting frustrated that it doesn't seem consistent) I get some skipping. That or I'll spray a very long line and sometimes the spray just starts to diminish the longer I go (though I realize some of that could be tip dry).

So, I use Wicked detail mostly with the new reducer. To combat it sometimes I up the pressure, and sometimes it helps. However since I often paint small and go for details when I up the pressure I get blow outs and spidering. I frequently check for tip dry. I have a bunch of airbrushes but of course since I like to try and work small (usually RC cars but recently broadening my horizons) I use a Micron. I also use an Eclipse and an HP CH. Of course it seems to happen more with the smaller needles.

I have my nozzles soaking in Solvent right now but I seem to do that all the time to try and solve this issue so I'm not sure that's my issue. Could be reduction, paint clumps, poor pressure, paint in the nozzle. Open to suggestions to try and solve this. I think painting would be a LOT more fun if I could pull consistent lines!

 

[markjthomson]

Straining is a good practice, I do with paints I've experienced issued with. If it's water based I'll use pantyhose, if not, I'll get a proper filter material that is resistant to the solvent in my paint.

 

[Madbrush]

My paints are constantly being strained, especially since I too have a micron, I have never ever soaked a nozzle overnight, unless it is being agitated while it soaks, any loose paint particles will just site there loose, I wouldn't be surprised at all if this is what's causing your skipping and blow-outs.
It's not necessary to strip down after every use, but when I do strip down I soak the nozzle and nozzle cap in cellulose thinners only for the length of time it takes to clean the rest of the brush, when it's time to put it back together and put the nozzle and cap back on, I clean out the nozzle carefully with an old needle, I drag the old needle over a piece of kitchen towel until nothing else comes off of it, then replace the nozzle, I also clean the inside of the nozzle cap before replacing it, one reassembled I spray a couple of drops of the the same cellulose thinners into my cleaning station and then run through my normal acrylic cleaner and then clean water, by doing all of this I usually have no problems at all.

For straining, I make little squares about two inches square from old pantihose/stockings and put these over all my bottle necks and then replace the lid, I'm using the same type of squeeze bottle that com-art paints and E-tac efx paints come in, it obviously won't work with the type where the dropper goes all the way down into the bottle, so this means my paints are being strained constantly as I go, if the paint will sit for a long time without being used, i remove the filter and replace the red sealing cap and then put on a clean filter when I need to use it again.

If you are having consistency issues it is usually a cleaning or blocking problem, it could also be a damaged needle or nozzle but I doubt you have a damaged needle/nozzle on every brush you own, when you clean you stuff you clean till your sure it's and then clean it again.

 

[IPT]

Pantyhose raid . Okay, looks like I need to change my practice. Never thought about lining the top of the bottle with it. Yeah I am using water based so that should do it then. If this is the source of my issue I will be sooo happy if I can get some smooth controlled spraying going on .

Now this wouldn't work or even be needed really for base coats like metallics, right? Just figured I'd ask.

 

[ferret]

Water based paints are naturally dirty so I have always strained them ,I also use tights aka panty hos on the bottle caps and paper filters for the automotive aunts I use .

 

[AndreZA]

I've never strained any of my paints. But I work indoors with no dirt and temperatures are constant.

 

[Madbrush]

I've never strained any of my paints. But I work indoors with no dirt and temperatures are constant.

You've obviously been lucky with paints, I seem to get every bottle that's been lying in the shop for donkey's years as if they see me coming and just give me the crap they want to get rid of but without any discount, at least that's how it was in the beginning, since I started using com-art last year and now just recently E-Tac I don't really have all the usual problems they both work great for me and it's possible I don't even need to strain now, but it takes a second to throw that little square onto the bottle and an extra line of defence is always welcome even if I don't need it, cleaning has become a lot easier with com-art and E-Tac too.

The only downside these days is I can no longer blame my equipment or paints, if anything goes wrong now it's either because I'm lazy or stupid, or even worse, lazy and stupid

Temperatures are never consistent here, I'm afraid, just yesterday I scraped ice off my car windscreen and then just over an hour later I walked to the shop in a t-shirt, at this time of year weird stuff happens with the weather

 

[Squishy]

I always strain the paint. I love, love, love Wicked, but the high percentage of pigment can make some colours settle, or seperate (flesh tone is one that always seems to). To me it's a small price to pay for the vibrancy of the colour, especially when using them for auto work, they just pop after clearing. But it's also the reason some people don't like them I guess. For me the intense colour and versatility of the paint and what it can be used on, make a little filtering worth it.
Some colours don't need it, and some do (moss green I find has what I can only call teeny gloopy bits), but I am just in the habit of filtering them all, and don't have any issues, even through my micron at 10psi. Putting pantyhose over the neck of the bottle means the very bottom of the bottle can become concentrated. If you add some transparent base to the last bit, mix it up really, really well, then give it a really good filter, you just extended the remainder of your bottle.

 

[JackEb]

...........and paper filters for the automotive aunts I use .

what do you use for your pedal powered uncles ?

 

[MeeshellMP]

I never strain my paints, but I too, am in a controlled environment. AND, I go through ALOT of paint each month, so it NEVER has time to sit and "rot" . I started with small bottles of Wicked, and now, Im ordering 16oz bottles, that DONT last me long. Although, quite a few of them, I still order the small bottles.

 

[IPT]

yeah I guess shelf storage has a lot to do with it. I add paint by the drop and thus far only worked on very small pieces. I don't even think I have used a half a bottle in a year. I'll try straining and see what it does. It sure can't hurt to try it out.

 

[Greg Geilman]

Michele, Blick is clearancing a lot of 16 and 32 oz bottles of Wicked cheap so if you can save some money.

 

[ferret]

jack EB ,yes typing with no glasses again

 

[ferret]

I have also cut out the inside of a 3m pps pot strainer and put in the bottom of the cup ,however this only really works with larger amounts of paint .