Prevent blotching

Q

Quarinteen

Guest
I purchased a cheap master airbrush. Mechanical it works fine but it's unreliable. It constantly clogs and splatters. It's not reliable. Is there something I can do to improve this? Different brand needle I can use? Something I can coat the needle in? As I was writing g this I was thinking about never wet.

Has anyone tried this? Clogging is caused by ink sticking to the needle that is if the needle isn't bent. I wonder if that would work. If some tries before me let me know if that works??

Any other suggestions?
 
It's made by Rust-Oleum if anyone is interested. Just ordered some on Amazon for 15$

 
What you are referring to is what we call tip dry. It is the bane of airbrushers everywhere. Most artists simply wipe the end of the needle with a q-tip or cloth periodically to catch it before it happens.

There is a product from Badger call Regnab- it supposedly prohibits tip dry. Personally I haven't had much luck with it myself. I'm not sure what this Never Wet stuff is you speak of, but I'd be very cautious of anything that is going to mix with your paint.
 
So damn frustrating. I spend more time cleaning and unclogging this thing than painting. I've tried every combination of dilution and pressure. It's so unreliable. While I'm painting it will go from perfect to spitting paint out of no where.

Also any tips on being able to walk away or put the brush down for more than five minutes with out the damn paint drying up.

I like to use 2 brushes I put lite paint in one and dark in the other. Won't help because I constantly have to clean the damn thing.

Check out the video on the neverwet. It's something that you coat things in and let dry. Works on everything even clothes
 
I purchased a cheap master airbrush. Mechanical it works fine but it's unreliable. It constantly clogs and splatters. It's not reliable. Is there something I can do to improve this? Different brand needle I can use? Something I can coat the needle in? As I was writing g this I was thinking about never wet.

Has anyone tried this? Clogging is caused by ink sticking to the needle that is if the needle isn't bent. I wonder if that would work. If some tries before me let me know if that works??

Any other suggestions?
Needle polishing, be prepared to ruin at least one trying though.
 
Any coating you put on the needle will change the diameter of it and I’d suggest a good chance of it not being applied perfectly would the cause your nozzle to flare.
Get “proper” airbrush paint and reducer. Clean the brush thoroughly never clean with anything (acetone/ammonia/solvent thinner) that can destroy rubber o rings

Cheap airbrushed are very hit and miss. Which then makes you question wether your problems are caused by you/brush/paint
 
What sort of paint are you using? Is it airbrush specific? It sounds like tip dry, welcome to the world of airbrushing. There is an airbrush you can get with a good needle that will reduce it but it's 700eu. You can minimise it and learn to anticipate it to control it other than that, welcome to our world!
 
It all depends on where it is clogging. If it is clogging on the tip then that is tip dry which is normal with water based paints. Stopping every 30 to 40 seconds to clean off the tip will help and also reducing with reducer and lowering air pressure helps.

If it is clogging inside the nozzle then you have air leaking into the paint chamber causing the paint to begin to dry before it leaves the nozzle. This is usually caused by air sucking in at the packing bearing. If the brush has a teflon packing bearing with a packing nut you can tighten it a pinch till there is a slight resistance on the needle. Also sealing the head with some beeswax or chap stick helps some for this.


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Using master airbrush. I'm pretty good with a pencil and tattoo equipment. This airbrush I'm ready to give up on. Everything I do looks like a kindergartner painted it. Very valid point with the coating changing the diameter of the needle but I thinking backing it out a little would compensate. I ordered some I'll let you know how it goes.
 
I really wouldnt coat it in anything. To much damage can be done to the nozzle, but if you want to replace parts then go ahead and give it a go.

as for 'Kindergarten' paintings, we were all the same when we started.
Tip dry is just a part of airbrushing, the more you progress the less you'll get BUT you wont eliminate it entirely. even with the K33 needle with is an elite needle, it still happens.
learning reduction will help.
 
Perfect to spitting paint sounds like water from your compressor. But the problem could also be that you have a master which is like my point zero, they require some work to do well. Do everything airbrush dreams said ! If youre actually willing to follow these folks advice and answer their questions. you will get it working well.
You basically sound like you have every common problem going on.
 
Very valid point with the coating changing the diameter of the needle but I thinking backing it out a little would compensate.

Backing the needle out will result in the high likely hood of paint flowing without pulling back on the trigger.
no matter how hard you try, you will never get the perfect even coating around the needle, which in turn means it wont seal perfectly when you release the trigger to stop paint flow
 
Okay lets start from the top.
It is a masters airbrush .
What paint ? Brand ?
What is the compressor type tank or tankless?
Adding the coating will only muck up the airbrush . Setting the needle back will only allow paint to flow when you press air on.
This is not a damn pencil or a freaking tattoo machine. It is a device that blows paint . When you have air moving over a liquid it is gonna dry .
So lets start back at the basic .. 1 Airbrush with one color and do dots dagger strokes fades and blends.
Just like tattooing has basics so does an airbrush . A lot of tattoo people think cause they can tat airbrushing should be a cake walk . But it is not, it is a totally different muscle memory pattern than drawing , Tattooing or even painting with a brush.
While you build that memory , Learn the paint (Pick one brand and stick with it until you learn it) by learning it I mean start straight out the bottle and then drop by drop reduce that color until it flow smooth .
 
Okay lets start from the top.
It is a masters airbrush .
What paint ? Brand ?
What is the compressor type tank or tankless?
Adding the coating will only muck up the airbrush . Setting the needle back will only allow paint to flow when you press air on.
This is not a damn pencil or a freaking tattoo machine. It is a device that blows paint . When you have air moving over a liquid it is gonna dry .
So lets start back at the basic .. 1 Airbrush with one color and do dots dagger strokes fades and blends.
Just like tattooing has basics so does an airbrush . A lot of tattoo people think cause they can tat airbrushing should be a cake walk . But it is not it is a totally different muscle memory pattern then drawing , Tattooing or even painting with a brush.
Until you build that memory , Learn the paint (Pick one brand and stick with it until you learn it) by learning it I mean start straight out the bottle and then drop by drop reduce that color until it flow smooth .
If there is a will there's a way. Just need to be smarter than what you're working with.
 
If there is a will there's a way. Just need to be smarter than what you're working with.
Hmmm, what are you saying...?

This is some sound advice giving you some clues on how to be "smarter" .

Have a look at the questions and post up some answers... we are good at trouble shooting and these are the common pitfalls. You are also more than welcome to try work it out on your own, and we can tell you the answer you will come to...

Now, we all start with paintings that look like they came from a kindergartner, what did your first tattoo efforts look like. Airbrush is very unrelated in it's operation. Start with dots and daggers, lines and fades, learn to crawl before you stand and walk!
 
Could well be. I mean we've asked questions to hep get to the bottom of his issue but he hasn't answered them yet. You are right, this is the sort of thing we look out for in terms of troll like behavior, is he really here for advice or is he just pushing a product... we shall see...
 
Well if he is, then he picked the wrong parts to use that coating on. That stuff leaves very fine protrusions whose spacing are such the surface tension of water can not overcome and dances across the top of protrusion while air trapped in the bottom of the valleys makes it extremely low friction
The trouble is the protrusions are very fragile and susceptible to mechanical damage, just the stuff you want in a tapered valve
Don't get wrong there is a place for some types of coating on needles and to lesser degree the interior of paint nozzles coatings that reduce the surface area via grain refinement either by converting the surface of the metal to another derivative of that metal ,or silanes that are very hard and have some of the strongest bonds to surfaces
 
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