W
weairbrush
Guest
Iwata has been really taking over the market as of late, they have been making some quality equipment
Have been making quality gear for ages... I have used Iwata since the '80's
Mark must be slipping, he's usually the one to point you towards the introduction section where you can tell us a little about yourself, where in the world you live, what you like to paint (subject and on what) what sort of brush / paint you use.
That way we can help guide you if you need assistance. Or you may have been doing this for the last 30 years and can help some of the newbies around, but we don't know because you haven't introduced yourself,
http://www.airbrushforum.org/introductions/
you may want to take the time to read the netiquette thread in the same section too.
Thanks @JackEb - look forward to your introduction @weairbrush
M
Mr. Magoo
Guest
I did some detail work with it today and the large cup wasn't much of a problem. My work sizes will be closer to 12x12 than 36x36. Now I see how you guys get in all that detail : you work large, whereas I do not, so doing hairs on the dog that bit me isn't likely.
I also made a discovery today of perhaps the whole reason why I was having so much trouble with clogging. You know how paint will dry around that tiny opening on most paint bottles and eventually stop it up. I was taking a large sandwich skewer and reaming it out. My 2 day old Eclipse suddenly started clogging and misbehaving so I started looking for answers. When I came across a stopped-up bottle, picked up a stick and was about to ream it out, I had a revelation. I was about to push dried paint chips into the bottle. Duh! Never occurred to me until now when I saw a bunch flake off.
The way to clean the caps is to remove them first, then rinse off when finished scraping. I either have to filter ALL my paint bottles or toss them and buy new. I bought some nylons today to do just that but I'm wondering if the paint will even go thru at all. Seems like a lost cause. Sometimes I think the learning curve for airbrushing is straight up.
I also made a discovery today of perhaps the whole reason why I was having so much trouble with clogging. You know how paint will dry around that tiny opening on most paint bottles and eventually stop it up. I was taking a large sandwich skewer and reaming it out. My 2 day old Eclipse suddenly started clogging and misbehaving so I started looking for answers. When I came across a stopped-up bottle, picked up a stick and was about to ream it out, I had a revelation. I was about to push dried paint chips into the bottle. Duh! Never occurred to me until now when I saw a bunch flake off.
The way to clean the caps is to remove them first, then rinse off when finished scraping. I either have to filter ALL my paint bottles or toss them and buy new.
I bought some nylons today to do just that but I'm wondering if the paint will even go thru at all. Seems like a lost cause. Sometimes I think the learning curve for airbrushing is straight up.
Nylons... yes another of our dirty little secrets... Use a dropper and it will go through fine.
Use a dropper and it will go through fine.
Squishy
Queen Clown Slayer
Paint pals is only 5 x 7 so not all of it is large. I actually find it harder to paint larger as I learnt on bikes and had to fit designs into spaces, and find the thought of a large canvas a bit intimidating . Oh, and I'm too cheap to buy large
Don't worry about the dried paint thing, we all have our Duh! moments. Like when I realised filtering paint with panty hose over the neck of the bottle was only leaving a heavier concentrate of pigment as the bottle was being used, then wondering why the last eigth of a bottle was almost impossible to use. *facepalm*
Your nylons should do the job, or else get some proper paint filters. Filter it into another contaminate free container, then make sure you have no heavy residue at the bottom of the bottle and then pour it back. You should be good to go.
. Oh, and I'm too cheap to buy large Don't worry about the dried paint thing, we all have our Duh! moments. Like when I realised filtering paint with panty hose over the neck of the bottle was only leaving a heavier concentrate of pigment as the bottle was being used, then wondering why the last eigth of a bottle was almost impossible to use. *facepalm*
Your nylons should do the job, or else get some proper paint filters. Filter it into another contaminate free container, then make sure you have no heavy residue at the bottom of the bottle and then pour it back. You should be good to go.
another little tip for you. once you've got your paint in the brush, wipe the paint off the bottle IMMEDIATELY. with the Etac I twist the top closed and then wipe the excess off. then there is no dried paint to clog anywhere. I keep an old facewasher handy, once its full of crud I bin it.
I've come to like yorker caps for my paints. They don't have the crevices for paint to collect and dry in that the screw caps have. Screw caps are convenient, but in my experience messy. I filter outside the bottle rather than by putting mesh under the cap.
Wrap your hose 1 or 2 turns around your forearm instead of just letting it hang. this'll keep it under control away from your work without having to use your other hand, and will act as a pseudo lanyard in the even of a dropped brush. I also recommend switching to the thin black poly hoses if you're currently using a braided hose.
With the SOTAR in particular, I recommend removing the (un)ergonomic plastic grip piece, and connecting the hose directly to the brush without any quick-connects or valves or filters in between. With a thin poly hose connected directly to the brush and wrapped around your forearm, the SOTAR feels and maneuvers much more like a pen. This pen-like handling is one of the main reasons I like the SOTAR, and would be hesitant to trade up to a Micron even if I could afford one.
I actually have two different hoses: a Badger poly hose which I use with my SOTAR (note the tiny Badger-sized fitting, which makes for a much more streamlined connection with the SOTAR), and an Iwata poly hose I use with everything else.
Wrap your hose 1 or 2 turns around your forearm instead of just letting it hang. this'll keep it under control away from your work without having to use your other hand, and will act as a pseudo lanyard in the even of a dropped brush. I also recommend switching to the thin black poly hoses if you're currently using a braided hose.
With the SOTAR in particular, I recommend removing the (un)ergonomic plastic grip piece, and connecting the hose directly to the brush without any quick-connects or valves or filters in between. With a thin poly hose connected directly to the brush and wrapped around your forearm, the SOTAR feels and maneuvers much more like a pen. This pen-like handling is one of the main reasons I like the SOTAR, and would be hesitant to trade up to a Micron even if I could afford one.
I actually have two different hoses: a Badger poly hose which I use with my SOTAR (note the tiny Badger-sized fitting, which makes for a much more streamlined connection with the SOTAR), and an Iwata poly hose I use with everything else.
'Yorker Caps' are what I call twist caps, it would be nice if things were called the same thing globally
Interesting. As far as I've ever known "yorker cap" meant this sort:
I agree, standardized terminology is always for the best. Still bugs me a little how different airbrush manufacturers will have their own particular names for the same exact parts of a given brush design. Seems like reinventing the wheel, linguistically speaking (ha!), and for no benefit.
I agree, standardized terminology is always for the best. Still bugs me a little how different airbrush manufacturers will have their own particular names for the same exact parts of a given brush design. Seems like reinventing the wheel, linguistically speaking (ha!), and for no benefit.
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