SG100 Intercoat wrinkled my basecoat

J

Juicegoose

Guest
So I've only used sg100 intercoat clear twice. Both times it wrinkled my kbc basecoat. Not all the way just in spots. I had applied the KBC and let it flash roughly 5-10 minutes. I am spraying a very small area maybe 1" x 1". I mixed up the sg100 with RU311 reducer in a 1-1 ratio and sprayed a medium coat and let it sit. After about 5 minutes I come back and BAM freakin wrinkling the surface. Is my Basecoat not dry enough or something?
 
The last time something happened to me like that I had over applied the clear.

The other possibility is there was something like oils from your skin on the paint or metal.

I am no expert so don't bank on what I say.


Paint on
 
maybe I applied it to thick. I can't imagine that I did but geez. I certainly didn't touch the part. I was wearing gloves the whole time.
 
Do a dust coat before going as far as a medium. I always do a dust coat, wait 10-15 mins, a light coat, wait 10-15, then start with the med and heavy coats allowing proper flashing.
The base coat might need alot more time to dry properly.
 
twood beat me too it, I was going to suggest that your base might not be fully dry, or that the top layer had dried but not the one below, and when the clear is applied that moisture gets pulled through. It could be happening in patches because the base might be applied thicker in some places which is where it may not be quite dry, and the rest dried fine. Either that or there is some kind of reaction. I don't know what you are painting on, but for example if it was a bike tank or helmet etc that once had stickers on, glue residue could cause it. I have had to strip tanks back to bare metal and use a barrier coat before as the glue had eaten right through and even into the metal. It could be if it is something that has body filler in, the filler may not be properly dry too.
 
Flash time of only 5 to 10 minutes??
And what is the shop temps and humidity ?

sounds more like you did not let the base coat cure and then laid on sg100 way to thick. Why are you using sg100 on base coat ? Most use standard clear coat to lot it in then start art work using the sg100 to lock in the art work on top of the clear coat.
 
Thanks Guys So to answer some questions. Shop temp was roughly 75-80 degrees humidity 70-80%. (Houston Texas). I had previously sprayed a white base and then cleared is with usc01 the day before. I am simply adding a masked stripe of candy apple red so i masked off the strip, scuffed the surface with a red scotchbrite, applied some silver and then some kbc11 red. The stripe is roughly 3/4" wide and around 2" long. I had waited around 5-10 between coats( I didn't time it I just looked for the surface to dull and me hand slick). I think it might have been not waiting long enough on the sg100. the first coat didn't really wrinkle but when I sprayed the second it wrinkled in various areas. I was using sg100 for it's quick dry time so I could mask out another stripe.
 
I just did a piece and used silver and the same happened to me. The clear was fine on the dust coat, but when I put a heavier clear on, it cracked only on the silver areas which were candied.....The areas that were not silver based were fine....I put it down to the silver needing alot more time to dry.
 
Silver and gold need a lot of flash time. Houston's humidity is way too high . the higher it is the more flash time you need . Have you ever tried to dry your hand in water ? LOL That is about what the paint is trying to do . Most of my friends who run shops in Houston , Humble and Katy area have a climate controlled booth . to keep the temp around 74 and humidity about 45%.

Plus you may have had enough flash off time on the white and clear . the higher the humidity the longer you let it sit .So if the MFG says 24 hours you wait 72 .Do the thumb nail test if it is soft it is not cured .
 
Thanks guys it must of been my stupidity on flash times. I brought everything back the white and started over. I sprayed the silver over the white let it flash 10-15 and then the red candy. This time it kinda wrinkled on ghe candy. Stupid me.

This brings up a second question.
What would you guys do if u had to paint something mainly white with a small red and blue stripe that requires silver base?
Spray the white let it flash then usco1 thrn mask stripes or reverse and spray over stripes with white.

Mr. Micron i would love to know some other airbrush artist around the katy area. Im nee to this and would love to watch a pro.
 
I don't think 15 mins is long enough....I would double or even triple that and would use some air movement on it.
Silver is a beast........needs a good mechanical bond also
Is there a chance to do a tape test on the silver?
 
So I gave everything a lot longer to flash over the weekend and didn't have the same issues. I did opt to not use the sg100 though so it wasn't an apples to apples comparison. I just went ahead and put on a light coat of usc01 clear and then after 24 hours of drying I applies a waterslide decal that I will now be clearing over.

One question. If you've cleared a part and want to put on a decal. Knowing you are outside the recoat window on the clear do you sand the part back to flat before you put on the decal this was your not sanding with the decal on the surface or do you wait until after. If you do it before should you use a higher grit paper then say 1500-2000 under the decal? The decal has clear backing so I would be concerned about the dull surface showing after the top coat of clear.
 
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