Spitting Paint

[CHÉRIE]

Hey guys

So I got my Wicked paint set And I feel confident with all the reducing to all the paints, but I am struggling with white. It keeps spitting, even when I reduce it the same as the other colours What am I doing wrong?

 

[Ricky Spanish]

Is it the opaque white you're having problems with? Sometimes if you add a little transparent base it can help. Also what size of needle are you using? Is it the wicked or wicked detail you are using? And finally what is the reduction you are using?
One question can lead to many more

 

[Squishy]

White has a lot more pigment, and needs much more reduction. You will need to reduce a bit more and maybe up the pressure, or I prefer to reduce quite a lot more, keep the pressure low (less air = less tip dry) and build the color in layers.

 

[Ricky Spanish]

Lol I was just gonna post what squishy said glad I checked

 

[Basstrack238]

Yeah as above, white is dense with pigment. A bit of 4004 and good amounts of 4012 helps a lot. Keep at it you'll find what works for you.

 

[CHÉRIE]

Thanks for the responses I'm using opaque white, and just wicked paint. I can't say the size of my needle, it's a cheap brand that doesn't even state that, unless I'm stupid and don't realize nozzle size is the same thing? it's says 0.2mm for that but nothing about a needle and I will definitely try reduce it more and find the right consistency thank you so much for the advice everyone

 

[beanpoleuk]

Whatever paint brand you use ,white will be a royal pain in the A***, just persevere with reduction and air pressure, in my case I eventually found a reduction and medium additive combination which was good enough to at least stop me banging my head against the wall

 

[JackEb]

Thanks for the responses I'm using opaque white, and just wicked paint. I can't say the size of my needle, it's a cheap brand that doesn't even state that, unless I'm stupid and don't realize nozzle size is the same thing? it's says 0.2mm for that but nothing about a needle and I will definitely try reduce it more and find the right consistency thank you so much for the advice everyone

welcome to the fun of reduction. what works for one colour wont work for another, the 'recipe' for today may not work tomorrow !! the best you can do is get a starting point and tweak from there. I have found I need to up the pressure a little more with the white than the colours, but maybe that's just me

as for your needle size if your cap is 2mm then the needle will be the same unless you have changed the needle

 

[Airbrush Dreams]

Are you spraying with the tip on or do you remove it to get tighter detail. When the air comes out it cyclones around the tip of the needle and will cause a bit more tip dry. When using semi opaque white it is intensified because of the larger pigment. I would do the redone reducer like suggested but don't over reduce because you will end up with a spidering problem. And remove the tip. Just don't crash your needle like we have all done.[emoji51]


Paint on

 

[Ricky Spanish]

Here's what works for myself when using wicked opaque white.
First we are both using the same size needle and head assembly (.20mm), so this should work depending on external conditions (ie temperature and humidity) as well your working pressure (I generally use a low working pressure around 20psi for doing lines, dagger strokes and micro texturing and 30-35 psi for filling larger areas).

5 parts wicked opaque white
2 parts transparent base
7 parts high performance reducer

If you start experiencing problems with "spidering" that generally means
A) you have over reduced your paint and need to add some trans. base. The trans. base acts as a binder and will help prevent this from happening. Also take into account that adding the trans. base will make the paint more transparent as well, so you may have to add more paint and reducer to get the mix just right.
B) spidering can happen because of too much pressure. So try messing around with your air pressure.
I also find that the opaque white over time will develop a small build up of pigment inside of the container walls ( from shaking and mixing the paint). This can clog up your airbrush and will prevent it from spraying proper. This is the problem I'm experiencing right now with my opaque white ( especially now that I'm getting close to the end of the bottle). The only remedy for the clogs is to strain the paint before putting it in your airbrush. I recommend a proper paint strainer that you can pick up a your local automotive paint store... They are made of paper and a plastic mesh and look like coffee filters.
Anyways I hope this helps and remember this is are just a rough guideline and it works for myself and the applications I have used it for. Plus I always found it to be frustrating to look at a manufacturer tech sheets and not have specific details on how to reduce paint for my needle and head assembly size. But this is also because of changing environmental conditions in the spraying area.
Take care

 

[CHÉRIE]

Here's what works for myself when using wicked opaque white.
First we are both using the same size needle and head assembly (.20mm), so this should work depending on external conditions (ie temperature and humidity) as well your working pressure (I generally use a low working pressure around 20psi for doing lines, dagger strokes and micro texturing and 30-35 psi for filling larger areas).

5 parts wicked opaque white
2 parts transparent base
7 parts high performance reducer

If you start experiencing problems with "spidering" that generally means
A) you have over reduced your paint and need to add some trans. base. The trans. base acts as a binder and will help prevent this from happening. Also take into account that adding the trans. base will make the paint more transparent as well, so you may have to add more paint and reducer to get the mix just right.
B) spidering can happen because of too much pressure. So try messing around with your air pressure.
I also find that the opaque white over time will develop a small build up of pigment inside of the container walls ( from shaking and mixing the paint). This can clog up your airbrush and will prevent it from spraying proper. This is the problem I'm experiencing right now with my opaque white ( especially now that I'm getting close to the end of the bottle). The only remedy for the clogs is to strain the paint before putting it in your airbrush. I recommend a proper paint strainer that you can pick up a your local automotive paint store... They are made of paper and a plastic mesh and look like coffee filters.
Anyways I hope this helps and remember this is are just a rough guideline and it works for myself and the applications I have used it for. Plus I always found it to be frustrating to look at a manufacturer tech sheets and not have specific details on how to reduce paint for my needle and head assembly size. But this is also because of changing environmental conditions in the spraying area.
Take care

Thank you so much for all the info! Definitely helps a lot!