Suggetions about more details

[cescop]

Hi guys, it's long time that I don't write here but now I have started again painting with my Iwata Neo CN.
I'm trying to customize my RC Helicopter Canopy, I have painted it with Tamiya gray primer and after that whit a spray color RAL 1014 Beige, always acrylic colors.
After dry process, i have made sposts with tamiya flat brown and to fix done works i have use a tamiya flat coat.
At this point i would like to paint bullets hole and made shadows in same points of the canopy, in particular i would like to shadowing the part near the hole in the canopy o left and right side.
The question is: how to procede? I think to use flat black, more reduced than normal (ex. 1:3 - 1:5) low preasure and spay from 3-5 cm far from canopy...with an effect like overspray.
This steps could be right? What do you suggest?

Thanks a lot.
CescoP.

 

[flycatchr]

Hi Cescop - I would suggest using masks/stencils for the very fine stuff. especially bullet holes. others here could perhaps advise a bit more

 

[cescop]

Thank you Fly, i have been worked with frisket film to do masking shapes, i have seen many video on youtube about bullets hole and other effects and I'm triying them on paper sheet to do practice before painting on the final surface.

 

[Mr.Micron]

Mainly like flycatcher said, If you can find some 10 mil mylar to make your template it will last forever , Plus it is see through so you will be able to place them where you need them.
You could also use some smoke color to show the seems and rivets , Lots of effects you can use.
I would also suggest looking into buying a Badger Krome for the fine line stuff..

 

[splasha]

I think you are on the right track with the reduced paint and lower air, but I would still mask up the area around the vents before spraying.
I am assuming that you are referring to the air intake vent holes immediately to the rear of the ****pit, right?
Might be nice to overspray FAINTLY away fromthe rear end of these to give a "working" appearance,
Just a thought.

 

[cescop]

Thanks for your suggestions!
The part where i want to add some shadowing and details is on the red shape, i have decided to mask to prevent overspray on the rest of the canopy, but directions of spray is better front to rear or rear to front? I think the first one..more thinner on the rear part and more marked on the rear part near the hole on plastic.
What do you think?

Thanks a lot.
CescoP.

 

[Madbrush]

Thanks for your suggestions!
The part where i want to add some shadowing and details is on the red shape, i have decided to mask to prevent overspray on the rest of the canopy, but directions of spray is better front to rear or rear to front? I think the first one..more thinner on the rear part and more marked on the rear part near the hole on plastic.
What do you think?

Thanks a lot.
CescoP.

The direction of spray would normally go from the front the rear, unfortunately the shape of the hole makes that difficult, and if you did it from the rear to the front that you would have to do that with your red shapes too to keep it flowing, I don't think that would look good during flight, it would give the impression of flying backwards which I know you can actually do, I would suggest your shadow goes from the hole it'self ignoring the rest of the shape around the and go from front to back.

What helicopter is this from, is it the Raptor 50?

 

[cescop]

Thanks Mad, yes it's a Raptor 50 Titan series...My first nitro helicopter after I have started with a Electric 450 T-rex Clone. Now I have bought two canopies from Fast-lad of Fasuno and i'll try to paint this old and original canopy.
I'm preparing some words as ARMY, RAPTOR, CAUTION with photoshop and printing them on a paper sheet, after that i will cut words on a piece of frisket and than airbrush the word on the canopy.
Yesterday evening i have tried to realize a metal grid effect, i have made a rectangle with a light gray and than i have used a piece of "mosquito net" with black color, the idea is to have black squares with light gray rows between them.

I have to practice more, but the first risult is not bad as I thought!

 

[Madbrush]

Thanks Mad, yes it's a Raptor 50 Titan series...My first nitro helicopter after I have started with a Electric 450 T-rex Clone. Now I have bought two canopies from Fast-lad of Fasuno and i'll try to paint this old and original canopy.
I'm preparing some words as ARMY, RAPTOR, CAUTION with photoshop and printing them on a paper sheet, after that i will cut words on a piece of frisket and than airbrush the word on the canopy.
Yesterday evening i have tried to realize a metal grid effect, i have made a rectangle with a light gray and than i have used a piece of "mosquito net" with black color, the idea is to have black squares with light gray rows between them.

I have to practice more, but the first risult is not bad as I thought!

You can actually print your logos directly onto your frisket, if you cut your frisket to any of your printers standard paper sizes, if you do that set your paper settings to high quality photo paper, this will make it easier to see when you start to cut the letters out.

I almost bought the raptor 50 when I started flying, but went with T-rex 600E instead, I bought the T-rex 700E last year but sold it after a few months, I gave up helicopters and moved over to planes, I find it more relaxing, but I repair the canopies for guys who crash at our field, the plastic canopies are difficult to repair if they crash, I worked a lot with fiberglass so I find that easier.

On youtube, check out a guy called Ed Hubbs, you'll find a lot that's appropriate to your heli's in his videos, all kinds of tricks and stuff, some of it you won't believe how easy it is.

 

[cescop]

I don't like so mush electric models...i need to hear engine sound and essence of nitro's smoke!
I have a T-rex 700N and my project is to buy a canopy and personalize it as I want...I want an original piece. I like airplane too, but when i don't fly helicopter i fly my Multiplex Solius EP Glider...it's very very relaxing, slow or fast fly as you wish...long time fly with a single battery and very high quality parts.
Thanks for your suggesteed youtube channel, i will see it tomorrow afternoon!

So, give me your opinion, i have started airbrushing with an Iwata Neo and Tamiya color for static models and I haven't found problems. After that i have bought a basic kit of Wicked Colors (5 primary color and two bottle of W100 Reducer) to do practice with exercises of airbrushtutor sheets, but i have got problem of tip dry. I have read that wicked aren't easy color for a beginner, and I have tried different reduction radio between 1:1 to 1:5 and different preasure setups between 10psi to 35psi, but tip dry persist..so i'm looking to buy Wicked W500 High Performance Reducer, what's your opinion?

If it's possible i would like to try again and make confidence with wicked before changing brand as A-tac, Com-art or others.

Thanks for your helps!

 

[Madbrush]

I don't like so mush electric models...i need to hear engine sound and essence of nitro's smoke!
I have a T-rex 700N and my project is to buy a canopy and personalize it as I want...I want an original piece. I like airplane too, but when i don't fly helicopter i fly my Multiplex Solius EP Glider...it's very very relaxing, slow or fast fly as you wish...long time fly with a single battery and very high quality parts.
Thanks for your suggesteed youtube channel, i will see it tomorrow afternoon!

So, give me your opinion, i have started airbrushing with an Iwata Neo and Tamiya color for static models and I haven't found problems. After that i have bought a basic kit of Wicked Colors (5 primary color and two bottle of W100 Reducer) to do practice with exercises of airbrushtutor sheets, but i have got problem of tip dry. I have read that wicked aren't easy color for a beginner, and I have tried different reduction radio between 1:1 to 1:5 and different preasure setups between 10psi to 35psi, but tip dry persist..so i'm looking to buy Wicked W500 High Performance Reducer, what's your opinion?

If it's possible i would like to try again and make confidence with wicked before changing brand as A-tac, Com-art or others.

Thanks for your helps!

I've never used wicked, but I have read from the guys here that the 500 reducer does cure the tip dry problem to some extent, I work with very thin paint 20:1 and usually between 5 - 10 PSI, I thin only with water and certainly with the neo I have very little problem with tip dry except with white.

Having said that, you can use much cheaper paints if it's just for practicing your dots and lines, some people have even used food coloring.

You generally have to just play around until you find a combination of thinning and pressure that works for you.

 

[cescop]

Thanks, tomorrow i hope to find time to look about cheaper colors to use for practice and W500 to try with wicked and tip dry issue.

For canopy i want to continue and finish my work with tamiya color, i'll post pics about progress next days!

thanks for your tricks and suggestions, have a good weekend.
Regards,
cescop.