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The Tape & Frisket Bible

Discussion in 'Tips & Tricks!' started by crewchief227, Aug 6, 2018.


  1. jord001

    jord001 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    @Vladimir yes its sort of a grey browny colour, Used it on a plastic panel and an aluminium panel, scuffed with scotchbrite, tack ragged and cleaned with wax and grease remover. your right its low tack but it worked ok for me.

    Lee
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  2. Vladimir

    Vladimir Detail Decepticon!

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    I'm asking why. Many people don't like 810 for its low tack, but I think in some cases this feature may work for our good, the question is where it would:) So I've bought only a few yards of 810, but not a whole roll, just to try it first and maybe then to buy a roll. So I'm curious now what people would say about the pros/contras of 810.

    Your answer is that I supposed to hear, sanded and well cleaned surface works fine.
    I've been told that applying it to unsanded base coat is no good, it doesn't work. So other film will work in such cases, I suppose.

    I've bought rolls of 811, 813 and some from Avery, but can't say almost anything for I haven't tried them yet. About 811 could say that it cuts well, weeding is great, where an element of the design is weeded you can see blue backing, it's real convenient. Tack of the film is good but not that strong.

    What kind of transfer papers/films do you all prefer and for which paint mask? It seems it's a big question to find proper one.
  3. crewchief227

    crewchief227 Spider Splatterer

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    For transfer paper I used to use graphite Sural paper, but it is still a pain to erase fully, and is so dark that if I don't transfer straight on top my frisket, and transfer on my gesso, I will rub it out the best I can with a kneaded eraser, and then spray white paint till it's barely visible. The white paint also keeps the graphite from smearing later. Now since I tend to paint larger, I bought a cheap projector for my studio, and use a really hard lead, like a Mitsubishi Hi-Uni 6H. Oh and a warning out there, please oh please everybody, avoid Speedball gesso panels. They have the worse surface I have ever seen, first they have a wavy bumpy shimmery gesso, like it was pressed on to hard, paint won't stick to it even after sanding, and if you do any cutting, the gesso breaks away in little flakes along the cut line, and when you think you have a clean edge after painting a section, and lift up your frisket it just breaks away all the way down to the partical board. I've tried everything to make them work as I bought a 5 pack off of amazon, and threw three of them away.

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